Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10
Suspension / Rfy shock rebuild
« Last post by jonob on Today at 00:12:03 »
Hey all,
I have some of those. Top. Quality. Rfy shocks 😂😂. Anyhow can anyone tell me if they have rebuilt them, where they got seals from to match? I am unable to find any that are the same
Other Projects / Re: Electrical..... HAAALP!!!
« Last post by 88SS on Today at 00:06:02 »
Post the switches up here before you hit eBay.
Most of the members here are smart enough to trace wires back to the individual switches to determine which one goes where.
The rest are smart enough to follow directions ;)

Iím smart enough to follow directions. The problem is there arenít any directions. They did email me some directions, but perhaps my stock controls are wired different than the ones described. True, I did not take the time to put a multi meter on them.

Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Other Projects / Re: Electrical..... HAAALP!!!
« Last post by 88SS on Today at 00:01:18 »
If the colours match the stock switches then the stock diagram is going to show you what leads where....
The colors donít match the stock switches. I couldnít tell which wires were going where on the universal switches, and got frustrated with trying to figure it out.

I would think a diagram for the universal switches wouldnít be too much to ask, but maybe Iím wrong. Either way, Iím not trying to spend a month wiring up switches I plan on changing out anyway.

The stock switches were dried out and corroded. I was hoping for a reasonable swap to get me through the summer, but now itís too late. Iíve already re wired the whole bike to run no switches

Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Other Projects / Re: Electrical..... HAAALP!!!
« Last post by 88SS on Jun 17, 2018, 23:53:49 »
I am surprised that you can't trace wires back to the switch to work out which circuits they are. I'm no electrical engineer and if I didn't have a multimeter, I'd use a battery and 12v bulb from a tacho or similar or go to the local auto parts store and buy a circuit tester.

That basically is how most of us manage to fit switches form modern bikes, or universal switches onto our old bikes.  It's pretty simple really.

BTW, do you have a Norton 600SS or does your screen name have some other connotation?

On the old clymer manual the bike is #88 and itís an f super sport. I couldnít come up with a user name, so I just punched in 88ss.

Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Restorations / Cb750f has me scratching my head, again
« Last post by 88SS on Jun 17, 2018, 23:03:59 »
Hereís what Iíve done: I pulled the carbs, and completely disassembled them (yes even the slow jets), I soaked them in an ultra sonic with heat all day, checked the valves (all in tolerance), changed the oil, new air filter, changed the starter clutch bearing, rewire the whole bike, upgraded the charging system (tested and working), upgraded the ignition system (power arc), and set the timing. Checked the compression, and it was great. Reassembled the carbs. Hereís where it gets tricky. I put everything together properly (this is about the 6th time Iíve done it), except I forgot to turn the mixture screws out 1.5 turns per factory manual. Put the carbs on and the bike fires right up. Keep in mind the mixture screws are all the way in at this point. Itís idling good, so I just let it warm up. Once itís warm, I hook up the sync tool. Now it gets weird.

I sync the sync tool first to #2, then hook up the other 3. Sync #1 to #2 no problem. When I go to #3 it wonít budge in either direction. In fact #4 moves instead. This is where it starts unraveling. I get the shop pro involved and we discover I had forgotten the mixture screw adjustments, and we canít figure out whatís going on with #3. Long story short, Iíll pull the carbs AGAIN and clean them. Not a full disassemble, but I sprayed through all the holes and jets with brake cleaner and air. The reason being, when we pulled the plugs it looked lean.

Now hereís the bigger problem: when I put the carbs back in, the bike wonít start. This time I made the proper mixture screw adjustments, I bench synced the carbs. The choke is good. The butterflies arenít stuck. I checked the spark. Iím getting hella good spark (not checked with plug). Pulled the plugs, and the plugs were all wet with gas.

I thought I may have just flooded it, so I blew out the holes. I waited about 10 minutes and tried again, and nothing. Pulled the plugs, and they were wet again. Tried gapping the plugs, and put them on a wire wheel to clean them. Nothing.

Now Iím at a stand still, scratching my head. Any ideas? Even the shop pro is scratching his head. I need a Honda grey beard!!!

Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
Cafe Racers / Re: CJ360 Build (my first)
« Last post by MiniatureNinja on Jun 17, 2018, 22:33:11 »
awesome! that's a cool color - still jelly of those side covers!
Cafe Racers / Re: CJ360 Build (my first)
« Last post by irk miller on Jun 17, 2018, 22:28:03 »
Yeah man, that motor is gorgeous.
Cafe Racers / Re: Norton / Harley Ironhead Cafe Project.. Build thread
« Last post by Bevelheadmhr on Jun 17, 2018, 22:21:39 »
A) I didn't have any
B) No one knows what Norley means
C) I couldn't find any HD tank decal that would look right on that tank
D) The Norton gold decal works with the black and gold colour scheme I wanted
E) Most specials take their ID from the frame not the engine, so while its not a OE Norton frame, its close enough.
Cafe Racers / Re: CJ360 Build (my first)
« Last post by ZenMoto on Jun 17, 2018, 22:19:17 »
Well, it's been a long time since I've checked in, but that doesn't mean I haven't done anything.

Finally got some bits back from powder; the hubs I got a while ago, then sent wheels out for lacing. Before doing that I needed to clean up the original spokes, as I planned to reuse them.

They turned out pretty good, but it was a fair amount of work ...totally worth it.

I went from this pile of rust and corrosion...

to this shiny mass of polished beauty. 

The wheels came out beautifully, though my wheel guy had to adjust the nipple angle to make the stock spokes work with the rims I'd purchased. ...I'm still working on mounting the rear tire, as you can see.

I also got my polished engine cases back from ceramic coating ...they lost a bit of luster, but I won't have to touch them up every week, so also ...worth it.

Lastly, just today, I got the call from my powder coating guy that my engine cases were done. They liked how they turned out so much they snapped their own photos for their instagram page. ...I'm really looking forward to getting it back together.

Still so much to do, but it finally feels like I'm making some headway.
Wheels Tires and Brakes / Re: Is this safe?
« Last post by irk miller on Jun 17, 2018, 21:01:01 »
Wonít they make the ride softer?
The Wheel creates force vector (0,10) assuming the SA is level at this moment
But the shocks are at an angle, So they need to produce a force vector (x,-10).
If the shocks are at say 45* then the resulting force vector from the shocks is a (-10,-10) the total magnitude of which is just over 14.1
So those shocks see 41% more load at that angle VS a vertically mounted set.

Yeah, you're right.  I had it backwards.  As you angle the shock, it essentially moves the load to spring and takes away all the damping.  You would need twice as heavy of a spring for such a change in angle.

Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10