"RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

Re: "RATTLE CAN" BLING! ...everything is here!

onetruepunk87 said:
Thanks, it's all in the prep work! Here it is with the clear coat.
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The reflection on the tank says it all
 
Duchat said:
The reflection on the tank says it all
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Awesome job, very impressive!
I am just getting ready to spray a tank with Duplicolor metalflake so hopefully it will come out as good as yours!
 
So, after reading through this article, I have a few questions that have probably been answered before.

First, am I correct in seeing that doing this method will take over 20 days? seems ridiculous, but if it turns out that good its totally worth it.

Second, I read this as applying a total of 64 coats of primer, paint, and clear. Again, seems ridiculous, but is that correct?

Third, how much primer, paint, and clear do you guys use to do a tank?

Thanks in advance,

Garret.
 
I don't do much painting but I know the better the prep the better the finish.
Load of primer, sanded down between coats is real time consuming and pretty hard work.
Same with undercoats, topcoat and clear coat.
Sometimes you have to wait a couple of days or even a month for paint to be properly hard and all the thinners to evaporate.
You can use different paint with catalysts which will harden much faster, but, you need an air fed mask because breathing the stuff can kill you (it goes hard in your lungs)
It's why having a 'show finish' costs so much if you pay a decent body shop to do it (I have a friend who does custom cars, he charges about $1500 to do a Harley single colour, no masking, etc - but, the finish is real impressive)
He's painted cars for Boyd Coddington and bikes for Arlen Ness so does know exactly what he's doing. It is possible to get the same finish 'at home' but it will take longer than a professional would do it.
It's probably why I don't do much painting, always looks like shit compared to Bob's work ;D
 
It is time consuming, I am happy with good enough on my own stuff but when it's for someone else I tend to work harder and take it to the next level. So I also only paint for a few people when I have the weeks to spend an hour or two a night, wait, again, wait, again LOL. Prep is the key and I find as soon as you think your done, you are only half way there LOL.
 
greddy_1700 said:
So, after reading through this article, I have a few questions that have probably been answered before.

First, am I correct in seeing that doing this method will take over 20 days? seems ridiculous, but if it turns out that good its totally worth it.

Second, I read this as applying a total of 64 coats of primer, paint, and clear. Again, seems ridiculous, but is that correct?

Third, how much primer, paint, and clear do you guys use to do a tank?

Thanks in advance,

Garret.
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The latest tank of mine took about 4 weeks of work. It took a little longer because I had two separate color coats. Also, I work all day and only have weekends to really work on bikes. So basically it was one weekend I did all the body work and primed/sanded. Next weekend did the black, next weekend the blue, next weekend I cleared. Probably 3-4 coats of each.
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onetruepunk87 said:
The latest tank of mine took about 4 weeks of work. It took a little longer because I had two separate color coats. Also, I work all day and only have weekends to really work on bikes. So basically it was one weekend I did all the body work and primed/sanded. Next weekend did the black, next weekend the blue, next weekend I cleared. Probably 3-4 coats of each.
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Nice job onetrue!
Question, how did you get your final white pinstripes? Vinyl decal or paint?
 
Thanks! The pinstripes are vinyl decals from KNK Cycles. They worked great in hiding the paint line. Once they're in place you just have to squeegee out any air bubbles, let them dry a couple days and you can clear coat right over them.
 
Is that the one in Hanson, MA?
I'd like to try these pinstripes out to resolve a paint design I have in mind.
 
Nuckingfuts said:
Is that the one in Hanson, MA?
I'd like to try these pinstripes out to resolve a paint design I have in mind.
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That's them. They were a little slow on shipping but the product was great.
 
Open question:

I've become mildly obsessed with Mopar's Corporate Blue/Basin Street Blue/Blue Streak (different names for the same color, which approximates Petty Blue). I have yet to find a company (Dupli-Color, etc.) that puts it in a rattle can. Does anyone know better?
 
buzznichols said:
Open question:

I've become mildly obsessed with Mopar's Corporate Blue/Basin Street Blue/Blue Streak (different names for the same color, which approximates Petty Blue). I have yet to find a company (Dupli-Color, etc.) that puts it in a rattle can. Does anyone know better?
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Someone stated earlier that you can have a custom can mixed up at an automotive paint retailer. Its more expensive than the off the shelf cans but could be mixed in any color. Might be a good option.
 
clear coat fail

clear coat fail
stripped to bare metal, fixed up dents, detabbed badge bars, filled, etching primer, regular primer, sanding, more primer, color coat (black) sand, repeat 3x, after last sand to remove orange peel, wiped down with thinner, let dry, light dust to get lint off, then Matte clear, light coat, wait a bit then a bit heavier coat, looked good, came back later and had a lot of crinkle, don't know if it was application error or mis match of clear and base, bummer, I'm going to sand the clear lightly and recoat just to see what happens but I'll probably have to sand it all back and start building up color coat and sanding again, then try a different type of clear
it was about a week between last color coat and clear, in a heated room
incompatable paints I imagine, not sure how to tell, the clear said recoat anytime but the color had a specific window for recoat. oops
I'm going for a nice satin/matte black.
 
I had a similar instance like that. After some testing I foubdbit was my thinner. Even after a couple hours it was still partially present. Now after I use thinner or any liquid I will actually take my heat gun to the tins after its evaporated to ensure it doesn't happen again. It was pretty damn depressing.
 
so you think the thinner wipe did me in? dang
Live and learn I guess. I'm going to go back to the shop and assess the damage later tonight. Maybe I can salvage it (little sanding and recoat) but more likely I'll have to take it all down.
 
jvandyke said:
so you think the thinner wipe did me in? dang
Live and learn I guess. I'm going to go back to the shop and assess the damage later tonight. Maybe I can salvage it (little sanding and recoat) but more likely I'll have to take it all down.
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It did for me due to not full evaporating.
 
so it "crazed" in a couple spots, probably too thick a coat all at once there, already started sanding it back down, concluded it's not a paint compatibility thing or it would be more widespread, most likely I just went too heavy too fast, going to sand it all down, possibly have to lay another color coat and resand, possibly repeat that several times to get back to where I was, then try again, I didn't like the matte clear all that much anyway, going to switch to satin this time around, no doubt will get there in the end
 
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