CB360 project

I plan on getting a smaller 4 cell ballistic battery so I got a new regulator/rectifier combo unit (the kohler unit) from ebay to accommodate it. In order to install the reg/rect I had to figure out how to reconfigure my wiring to accommodate the single unit. Looking at all the wires going to each, it looked a little intimidating. It ended up being easier than I thought. Below is an updated version of the cb360 wiring diagram that shows how I have the bike wired up now. With the new single unit. I also spliced the yellow and white wires coming out of the alternator so the battery is always being charged while the bike is running instead of relying on the lights being on. The best part about all this is removing more wires and parts off the bike that are no longer needed. Please take a look at my diagram and let me know if there are any areas I don't have right. I'm definitely not an electrical engineer so everything I do comes from research online.

<img src="https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/5240768/Photos/cb360-modified-wiring-diagram.jpg">
 
Good job on the filters. How did you conclude that the cotton fiber flows the same as the stock paper element? Seems like the cotton would be less restrictive and you would/may have to rejet.
 
Thanks interceptor.

I used the old "put to mouth and blow through" method. Haha. The cotton does flow much better so I will most likely have to re-jet. I'm swapping exhaust silencers as we'll so I'll have to re-jet anyways, most likely.


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I got a couple things done in the past few weeks...

I did some looking and it seems the green uni filter foam may flow similar to the stock air filters so I got some of that off ebay to replace the cotton I was using. Thanks for putting a bug in my ear interceptor.

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I also found a set of mufflers I'm very happy with. They're made by Cone Engineering. Very light and sound GREAT! I just have to figure out how I'm going to incorporate a stop for the side and center stand since the new mufflers dont have one like the stock mufflers did. I'm open to ideas! After putting the mufflers on, she's definitely been running rich (obviously) so I got a set of main jets from hondacb360.com and bumped up to a 102.5. I'm hoping that will be good but at least its a starting point.

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I went for a ride after the regulator/rectifier install and my battery died after about 20 minutes. after some digging I think I may have figured out why it wasnt charging. I had relied on the mounting bolt to ground the unit but its bolted to the battery box. the battery box is bolted to the frame via 3 rubber grommets so I dont think it was getting a proper ground. I ended up utilizing the ground wire that ran to the stock unit and connected that to the mounting bolt. so the new regulator/rectifier unit should be getting a proper ground now. I tested across terminals when the bike was running and it was around 12.5 at idle and higher as revs climbed so it should be working now. Just waiting for the weather to break so I can go for a ride and test out everything I've done recently.
 
Charging system is working great now. I ended up going with a GY6 combo regulator/rectifier that I was pointed to on eBay. I also decided it was a good idea to disconnect the battery when hooking up the regulator so it couldn't get fried as I connected each wire. I'm pretty happy with it now. The battery is staying at a consistent 12.4 volts after rides.

I also got sick of my master cylinder leaking so I decided to buy a replacement. I wanted to upgrade if I could so I did a bunch of research and decided on a 2007 CBR RR master cylinder from someone on eBay. I needed to get a mc with separate reservoir so it wouldnt interfere with my clipon brackets. I have to say that this was my best purchase for the bike yet! This mc is much stronger than the cb360 mc. It takes less effort to brake. In addition to the performance, the ability to bleed the brakes from the master cylinder makes brake bleeding a non issue anymore. To top it all off, the levers are adjustable. What a great purchase!!! I highly recommend a cbr mc for anyone else with a vintage cb!

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So over the past 6 months there has been a sound that sounds like a chain rubbing on metal. It seems to only happen when the bike is in neutral or when moving. And has been progressively worse and worse. I tried to adjust the cam chain tensioner but that didn't seem to do anything. Actually, it may even sound louder now. Any idea what this could be? Could it be that my chain guide is worn down? I just finally got the bike back together and running well so I'd hate to have to take the motor apart again.

update:
I inspected the bike a little closer and it definitely makes a fast ratcheting sound when idling in neutral or when I'm riding. I used a stethoscope to find where the sound is the loudest and its definitely loudest at the end of the kickstarter shaft. could my kickstart ratchet mechanism be getting worn out? There have been a couple times over the past couple years when I'd hear a loud snap when trying to kick start the bike. I worried that something broke but then the bike started right up on the next kick.
 
Does the ratcheting sound stop if you hold the kick starter to the top of it's travel? to me that sounds like the kick starter gear dragging and I suppose it could be something simple like the return spring not doing it's job or then something wrong with the kick starter gears. Spring should be an easier fix requiring you to remove the right crankcase, but gears themselves would require opening the case.

I'm not an expert, just learning about these beasts, so maybe someone with better knowledge has better tips.
 
Does the sound follow the RPM?
I had the same problem on my Suzuki and it was the kicker hanging as mentioned in the post previous to yours.
I just loosened the bolt pulled the kicker pedal completely off and re installed it to a few splines back it give it more 'clockwise' travel when in the resting position.
 
I decided I wanted to keep a good eye on my charging system so I did the in-gauge volt meter modification. Should be able to test it out tomorrow

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I decided I want my speedo back. I don't really like the oe gauges so I got these mini gauges from speed moto. They were the only place I could find the basic gauge in black without all the dummy lights. I lose my volt gauge but that thing's a pos anyways. Not really dependable. So I found myself relying on the multimeter anyways. The charging issue seems to be sorted out now too so I don't really need it anymore.

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I'm pretty sure something internal is messed up with the kick starter so I decided its time to pull the motor apart. Yesterday I had some time and pulled the motor off the frame so I could begin disassembly. Today I was able to get the right side cover off and clutch disassembled. But when I started taking the oil filter off, I realized I needed the special oil filter tool so I stopped there and ordered the part from common motor collective. I also ordered a full engine gasket kit as well as a new timing chain tensioner while I was at it.

While the side cover was off I played around with the kick start lever a bit and was able to replicate a clicking sound. After I took the side cover off the first thing I checked was the return spring. It was in place so that wasnt the issue. I'm not sure if this is a normal behavior or not. Maybe someone here can chime in. After looking at the diagram of the kick start mechanism in the manual, I'm wondering if the gears are touching when they're not supposed to be.

https://youtu.be/eKqD53JxH5E


Here's the video I took a while ago of the buzzing sound thats coming from the clutch while the bike is running.

https://youtu.be/3wmoR7D_AxI
 
Where's the spring on your kickstart shaft? You need to have it installed properly for the kickstart to spring back.

Snap ring could've given out on the internal end of the kickstart shaft as well, disengaging the gears. And pushing a bunch of metal crap into your crankcase.
 
Sorry I should have stated in my previous post that I took the return spring and snap ring off prior to taking that video. In this picture you can see how the kick start shaft looked after removing the cover. The snap ring is behind the washer. I'll keep an eye out for the internal snap ring when I get this baby apart. Thanks.
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The internal snap ring is on the very end of the shaft inside and it holds all the components from being pushed off the shaft from the end. When I disassembled mine, the snap ring was floating freely in the channel, not good. They've been known to give out and spew parts into the case. I replaced it with a new one. I bought a pack of 100, so if you find yours is worn and want to replace it let me know.
 
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