Testers Needed - LED Headlight Bulb

Sonreir

Oregon
DTT SUPPORTER
Hey all,

I'm hoping one or more of you guys could help me out. I have some new LED headlight bulbs I'm hoping to sell, but I want to give them a test run. Unfortunately, I don't have a bike at the moment that I care to dig into, so I respectfully request one of you guys do it. ;D

The bulbs are 10W low beam and 15W high and use 4mm bullet connectors for the wiring. The mechanical mount is an H4 format.

They are designed to work on 6V or 12V systems, so I'll need one of each, please.

Also, if you're going to volunteer, please be able to get these installed within a week and pictures of the night beam broadcast (both high and low beam) back to me ASAP.

As you're doing me a favor, you'll get to keep the bulb and I'll cover the shipping costs, too.

I only have two of these to test with, so it will be first come, first served.

Thanks in advance,
Matt
 

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I'll put my hand up since I'm a former pro photographer and would get you some good shots.

Caveat is that I'm in Canada.
 
cosworth said:
I'll put my hand up since I'm a former pro photographer and would get you some good shots.

Caveat is that I'm in Canada.

No problem.

12V or 6V?
 
I don't have an application just yet that I can test, but am interested in 12V when they are ready for the market. What kelvin temp do you suppose? soft, white or blue light? is it a CREE diode? what input watts do you expect? I want to lower battery size and keep the starter so every LED I can run will be less draw. As a side bar, do you know the lowest amperage draw an electronic ignition (Dyna S) needs to fire, I would like to build a low voltage module to warn when the battery or charging system is at marginal output? also, do I need to add anything to correctly run all LED lights i.e. headlamp, brake and turn signals?

Thanks,
RD :eek:
 
I have a cl360 running a stock headlight, AGM battery, and one of your reg recs from about a year ago. I am willing to do this, will I need to cut the old bulb out type of thing?
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
I don't have an application just yet that I can test, but am interested in 12V when they are ready for the market. What kelvin temp do you suppose? soft, white or blue light? is it a CREE diode? what input watts do you expect? I want to lower battery size and keep the starter so every LED I can run will be less draw. As a side bar, do you know the lowest amperage draw an electronic ignition (Dyna S) needs to fire, I would like to build a low voltage module to warn when the battery or charging system is at marginal output? also, do I need to add anything to correctly run all LED lights i.e. headlamp, brake and turn signals?

Thanks,
RD :eek:

White light. Around 6K just from looking at it? Diode is CREE. 10W for low beam, 15W for high.

Electronic ignition draw is usually very minimal. I would guess at around 20mA, but that is just a guess.

Turn signals usually requires special equipment, but headlight and tail light are plug-and-play.

KICKRacing said:
I have a cl360 running a stock headlight, AGM battery, and one of your reg recs from about a year ago. I am willing to do this, will I need to cut the old bulb out type of thing?

Thanks, but we have a 12V tester already. Just looking for 6V now. But if you are interested in one of these when we're ready to bring it to market, you would need a headlight that is the non-sealed type.
 
Thanks! we'll keep an eye out for the release.

Because I am in light ballast, LED driver manufacturing, I actually did some research last night for the lumen output and you should be around an .88 CRI with 7-850 Lumens per watt 6000K color might be close, but I'm gonna guess closer to 4500K, I think because of the perceived color of an LED it looks brighter... and that leads to my next question or comment.

The biggest problem I have with LED is that the light is very bright at 0-10 feet and lumen depreciation is rapid after. The key is the reflector and the lens have to work together to form a beam, much like adjusting a Maglight flashlight. It may be that along with the diode you might need a socket that has a lens at a preset distance from the diode like a TV projector lens? A test method may be a deep garage and a light meeter taking readings at 10' intervals until you match the lumen output of an incandescent or greater? I would be happy to loan you a quality meter. Very interested in the outcome!

RD :eek:
 
Love the idea, as I'm also looking to replace the standard bulb with led to reduce draw on the electrics. Would your product be e - marked for road use in the UK / EU?
 
JustcallmeMrT said:
Love the idea, as I'm also looking to replace the standard bulb with led to reduce draw on the electrics. Would your product be e - marked for road use in the UK / EU?

Afraid not. Off road use only for the UK and EU.

They are pretty simple to swap in and out, though.
 
This is a real treat for guys like me with little 4 cell lithium batteries and kick starts. And who ride in the winter.

Great product idea.
 
I can only volunteer my 12v sv650 right now but definitely look forward to seeing these end up on your site for sale. Definitely an upgrade from most of the ebay junk
 
12V system, low and high. Car is about 75 feet away.

Headlight bucket is this cheapo one with the integrated turn signals.
 

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Sonreir said:
Sorry for the blurry pics. Hard to photograph stuff at night without a good camera.

Looks good. The fact that the house behind the target is illuminated very well also is giving some good results.
 
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