Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune
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xb33bsa said:dont ferget to retorque the heads when cooled
i dunno about the case half bolts hey moby is that ever done or needed retorque case half nuts after a few heat cycles ?
stecken,you come a long way,awesome work man, you done proud
thank you xb, couldnt have made it without youre help!
had some time this weekend to work on blinkers lights and shortening the front fender.
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i dint think so but pardon the hijak ryan but i must pik mobies brainjpmobius said:
moby for a rd type air cooledwhat type of oring material makeup ?? or does it not matter ? what about the amount of crush in the gland ? just same as any oring in a flat static flange capture ?
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Bunafied O-Ring?
teazer said:
Thanks teazer!I try to roll with the punches!
I will soon post a video how she pulls when I get to borrow a Go Pro!
As for the case bolts,I torqued them once when I reassembled the 250 1 1/2 seasons back,checked them yesterday and they still or torqued properly.
Head nuts will need retorque, i realised that the Inner nuts tend to "break loose" more easily....could be the higher heat between the cylinders.
Oh yeah, the bike seems to slighlty have a slipperly clutch between 8500 and 9000k,which I wont bother to worry about,I try to keep out of that area for the crank´s sake.I´m using Motul 10W30 motorcycle gear oil.
IMO it just means that I´ve done well on tuning the engine....
Next up will be:
-Checking the timing
-Changing sprocket from 15t to 16t
-Building a main stand for servicing
-Riding
O-rings are definitely the hot ticket. Buna-N has too low a max temp. Viton is generally preferred I think though there are o-ring materials available with much greater temperature resistance. I have never used any of the exotic materials but imagine they are expensive. I have some Viton o-rings here somewhere but couldn't find them to get the exact specs but you can get them from McMaster-Carr. Absolutely 100% seal, and seemingly infinitely reusable, though no doubt there is a limit. Obviously you have to cut a groove for them but since the head sits directly on the cylinder, you don't have to take into account a head gasket dimension when setting up the squish and chamber. Really nice to be able to pop off the heads whenever you want and not need any new gaskets.
ride it man enjoy don't forget about the balance that is the exact correct springs and settings front to rear static and sag when laden with riderRyan Stecken said:
scaling the machine with and without rider front and rear is really an enjoyable part of it
but be warned i have crashed in the shed whilst attemting to scale the bike,solo, , i split my beer and my shoes nearly fell off
so ideally you get a girl, that dont talk very much, 'specially questions,and comes out to the shop only when absolutely needed ,like when you call her in
she can read the scales for you and hold the beer
she can take the measurements and put them in a notebook but srsly the balance and the best time to check the sag is after a good ride and its all loose moving freely
yep i was wondering about the placing of it is it dead center in the margin of contact ?jpmobius said:
basically it is a machined metal to metal fit that has the orings to do an absolute seal
in a perfect situation ie void of heat changes it would seal without the oring
here is some engineering pages on gland design and oring tech i have never oringed a cumbustion chamber
just farm pumps and hydraulic apps
http://o-ring.info/en/technical%20manual/ERIKS%20-%20Technical%20Manual%20-%20O-Ring%20Gland%20Design%20Information.pdf
Had a wonderful rideout yesterday trough the twisties...this is were these bikes can fully breathe IMO...and can make bigger CC bikes crazy 8)
here´s a little video from yesterdays ride:watch till end....I play the man card
https://youtu.be/CC3e4NczAfM
here´s a little video from yesterdays ride:watch till end....I play the man card
https://youtu.be/CC3e4NczAfM
that is bitchen stecken toe-tally bitchen
but do you Schluchtenscheisser's park right in the road often ? do that in america near city folk,chances are high u get yer ass run over by an impaired driver ! and not just an oriental neather, could be a drunk or drug impaired individual or a pack of male dancers on bicycles
but do you Schluchtenscheisser's park right in the road often ?
do that in america near city folk,chances are high u get yer ass run over by an impaired driver ! and not just an oriental neather, could be a drunk or drug impaired individual or a pack of male dancers on bicycles
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune
There are no cars in austria,we ride coaches.
Totally different thing:
Maybe theres another project in pipeline:
A Yamaha XS750 SE us custom.
What do you guys think of that bike and of that year?already has the cdi ignition,mikunis...
Frame wise it looks like it will he hard to cafe that bike,is the frame different than the normal xs750?
Opinions appreciated!
Chillout xb!xb33bsa said:that is bitchen stecken toe-tally bitchen
but do you Schluchtenscheisser's park right in the road often ?
There are no cars in austria,we ride coaches.
Totally different thing:
Maybe theres another project in pipeline:
A Yamaha XS750 SE us custom.
What do you guys think of that bike and of that year?already has the cdi ignition,mikunis...
Frame wise it looks like it will he hard to cafe that bike,is the frame different than the normal xs750?
Opinions appreciated!
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune
Hey guys!whats the right way to anneal my copper gaskets:
I used to use a blow torch on them on a flat surface until they discolor.should i wait till they cool down or throw them into cold water?
Thanks!
Hey guys!whats the right way to anneal my copper gaskets:
I used to use a blow torch on them on a flat surface until they discolor.should i wait till they cool down or throw them into cold water?
Thanks!
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
Room temp water... heat until just about to turn orange and toss in water... done.
Not all need to be annealed some are soft already tho... you might check with gasket maker
Not all need to be annealed some are soft already tho... you might check with gasket maker
Tune-A-Fish said:
Yep. Should be ready to go when new - though no harm done annealing them anyway assuming they are just soft copper and intended to be used in their annealed state. They harden up when clamped down under the head, and likely won't be soft enough to reseal on a second use which is why you need to anneal them every time you take the heads off.
Hey guys!
Long story short:
I can´t get my right cylinder to seal right.Had along rideout last weekend,oil is slighlty dripping out of the right head when I push the bike hard, so i guess there are a few possibilites now:
.)Go O-Ring on the heads (more machine work)
.)try to buy stock head gaskets and see if they seal (the ones i run now are stock but i ahd to use a file to change the diameter because of the overbore)
.)cut out the "right" headgaskets out of 0.8MM and 1MM copper sheet, so that finally the tinkering with the squish mod is coming into play,the stock gaskets has 1.35MM so I wan´t really using the squish we had planned yet.
I will try this in this order:
->New Headgaskets out of 0.8 and 1MM and if this fails I´ll probably have to go O-Ring
Also did some plug reading last time, left cylinder looks brownish tanned and the right (i guess because of the head leak) is darkbrown,black-ish...
I´ll let you know the results when I´m done with cutting the gaskets.
Long story short:
I can´t get my right cylinder to seal right.Had along rideout last weekend,oil is slighlty dripping out of the right head when I push the bike hard, so i guess there are a few possibilites now:
.)Go O-Ring on the heads (more machine work)
.)try to buy stock head gaskets and see if they seal (the ones i run now are stock but i ahd to use a file to change the diameter because of the overbore)
.)cut out the "right" headgaskets out of 0.8MM and 1MM copper sheet, so that finally the tinkering with the squish mod is coming into play,the stock gaskets has 1.35MM so I wan´t really using the squish we had planned yet.
I will try this in this order:
->New Headgaskets out of 0.8 and 1MM and if this fails I´ll probably have to go O-Ring
Also did some plug reading last time, left cylinder looks brownish tanned and the right (i guess because of the head leak) is darkbrown,black-ish...
I´ll let you know the results when I´m done with cutting the gaskets.
xb33bsa said:
I´ll keep riding it
i just realised that the power troughout the powerband seems to be a little less "clean" then before I had the leak.The new gaskets with the according size were planned anyways so out with the old and in with the new
