New CL100 Owner

Thanks, guys.

grcamna5, a new D9EA is in there now. The really bad news is that I got tired of trailering the bike around and left it at the cabin this morning. It'll probably be another week and a half before I can get back to it. Until then, all we can do is watch my dumb YouTube video and speculate.
 
Re: New CL100 Owner makes go board (warning: no motorbike content)

I made one of these for my gf for her birthday. We've been playing for a couple months now and are really getting into it. Playing on the iPad is just lame.

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I got lucky- my carpentry skills are weak but it turned out well for my first board. Next time I'll use real wood and maybe borrow a Bridgeport to mill the grooves instead of torturing myself with the RTX again. Does anyone else play? Go is such a great game.
 
Nice work! Laser cut grid would be nice, quick and tidy 8) Never played the game but looks interesting
 
adventurco said:
Nice work! Laser cut grid would be nice, quick and tidy 8) Never played the game but looks interesting

Lasers!

grcamna5 said:
I just recd. that little envelope in the mail today,thanks Al. ;)

Cool. I hope it fits and you can find a way to secure it.
 
I did already tape it on there w/ clear shipping tape and attempted to time the bike,it held on fine.The thing was though it reflected the light of the strobe timing light back at me too much so I couldn't see those tiny little 'F' and '' marks that are deeper inside where it's dark ::) :D I suppose at this point the only other thing I can do is get a flip-down clear face shield like guys use when using a grinder so I don't get sprayed too much in the eyes from that high volume pump :D

I feel ok riding the bike down to WV. tomorrow though because the timing is real close as far as I can see.. :eek: :D
 
That plugs is a D8EA or D9? Was it after a hard,fast ride? it does look a little lean to me also..
Al,I had a good ride down to Elkins,WV. on my bike and finished breaking-in the new top-end work.I'm going to remove the XR200R camshaft(I need more low-midrange power w/ my large dia. custom headpipe)that i installed and install the stock XL185S camshaft for better street midrange pull and fuel mileage,which I did today.I'll also be installing a 12vt. Reg./rect. soon from Sparkmoto so I can have 12vt. lights !
I actually enjoyed being 'out of state' in WV and regretted coming back to PA. :D
 
Watching the video I just wanted to grab the throttle and twist it home AFTER letting it go, just to see if it wasn't returning all the way. It sounded like a spring thing to me (spring return for the throttle cable or the slide?).

Also, I didn't hear the same thing on the video so this is going from your description. When I was a kid when dad finished mowing the lawns he used to turn the fuel tap off and let the mower run out of fuel. It would idle for a while then surge up and down until it finished on a big up surge. This went on for a while before it konked out.
 
So it's been a while and I still haven't solved the high-RPM miss on this bike. As long as I'm careful with the throttle and turn signals, it runs great. I swapped the stator, coil, rectifier, and carb off the XL (which runs 100%). None fixed the problem, and the same components off the CL work fine installed on the XL. Everything I bench-tested checked out, too. Kind of a head-scratcher. So a few weeks ago I spotted a NOS harness on Ebay for $50 and threw caution to the wind and bought it, thinking maybe a short somewhere would be the last straw. The harness turned out to be legit, but after installing it and also wiring dedicated grounds to the rear signals, still no improvement. Hmmm...

In other news, I've put over 3000 miles on this bike now and noticed the drive sprocket getting a bit worn, so I ordered up a new one along with a new rear sprocket and chain. What do you folks think of this weep from the countershaft seal? I probably should have dealt with it when I installed the sprocket today, but I didn't have a new one handy and I was jonesing to take advantage of the nice weather and go for a ride.

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The coolest thing would be to leave the seal as-is and funnel the oil up onto the chain. Hehehe. Any ideas?

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The new rear sprocket is a 40T, three teeth down from the sprocket the PO had installed. Despite the increased gearing the bike climbed right up the cabin driveway (which is like my own private hill climb), and I was very happy with the improvement in cruising RPM on the 45 MPH roads. I even ventured out onto the highway for a few miles. I still ended up hunting for 6th from time-to-time, but less than I normally do, and no doubt the motor ran significantly cooler. It worked well for a while, but now my speedo's whack except maybe 5-10% of the time, so I need to do a ride with the GPS and recalibrate.

Prepare to cringe, but I forgot to bring circlip pliers to the cabin and ended up doing this to get the sprocket off:

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Kind of sketchy. But at the same time surprisingly easy and effective! With safety goggles anything is possible. I think my pliers would have been too small for this ring, anyway, so it could become a regular routine.

On the way home I stopped at one of my favorite discount tool stores and picked up a pretty nice set of 10 Husky combo wrenches, 8mm-19mm, for about a buck a piece. Perfect for the new XL tool kit. This guy kept an eye on the scrambler while I did my shopping, and for once I parked next to a vehicle even more underpowered than the bike.

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To fix my janky speedo I crossed my fingers and gingerly shot some Tri-Flow up into the cable port on the gauge. I worried this would also have the effect of blasting the entire inside of the lens with fluid, but it didn't, and the gauge is working smoothly, again. (At least up to about 60, when the needle starts to freak out a little, and so do I.) On one hand, I can see why these things need to be tamper-proof, but 50 years on it also seems kind of silly and is definitely a pain in the ass. If anybody has a trick for cracking them open and it's not illegal to do so, please let me know.
 
Theres no trick to it.
I shot some penetrant in there same as you. But to no avail.
I literally had to crack mine open on the CL100. As they are glued/vulcanized.
Remove the stainless trim ring base.
Worked my way all around base cracking it w small screwdrivers. Just enough to remove bottom.
Once opened I gave the "works" a little flick w my finger and viola.
gave things a shot of oil and it works.

Upon assembly I didnt re-glue anything. I just reassembled. Just in case. :)

The trim ring hides the cracks I did and squeezes all back together pretty nicely.
 
iatethepeach said:
The MEK did its job:

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Plenty of crud came out with the BBs, as well:

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I am bringing up an old post, but I am having issues with my tank and haven't experienced one with a tank liner until this one. So, you filled your tank up with MEK and BB's? Soaked it and shook it up, rinsed, repeat, and done?
 
trek97 said:
Theres no trick to it...The trim ring hides the cracks I did and squeezes all back together pretty nicely.

Thanks for the tips, trek (I'm enjoying your BMW thread, btw). The way the odometer assembly sits inside the plastic housing does look like a permanent one-way affair. If the designer who included that trim ring was thinking of us this far in the future they deserve a pat on the back.

Bama704 said:
I am bringing up an old post, but I am having issues with my tank and haven't experienced one with a tank liner until this one. So, you filled your tank up with MEK and BB's? Soaked it and shook it up, rinsed, repeat, and done?

Unfortunately, a bit more work was required, but don't be discouraged- this was my first tank and I really didn't know what I was doing. Keep reading, and good luck!
 
Anyone need a 6V bulb w/Honda part number 34908-001-000? I don't know if I ordered it thinking it'd fit the scrambler or if it arrived with other parts by mistake. Probably the former, judging by the Partzilla application guide, which is at least partially broken. Yours free if it survives USPS in an unpadded envelope.

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The CB/CL100/125 speedo's are meant to be sealed which is a pain.. ::)
I opened-up mine anyway by cutting across the top of the black case up real close to the sight window,I then unscrewed the 2) phillips screws at the bottom and removed the speedo unit from the top and serviced it.I know it will always have that 'tampered with' look to it later but I glued the piece back on and made sure i used the correct type of ABS/plastic glue(Plastic Surgery,a type of superglue that's permanent)to seal it with and it works fine and accurate.I actually bought this one speedo that worked well already but had a broken plastic 'window' on top and I had another one that had a mechanism that was completely wiped-out so i cut-off the good top sight-glass 'window' from that one and installed it in place of the broken original one.I don't think I would try to risk removing the bottom where the black plastic case is molded onto the bottom steel base as I might have more trouble sealing-up that bottom portion imo.
 
It's been a while and there's not much new to report, but I thought I'd check in and say hi. The scrambler has been kicking butt since my last post, though it now competes for my attention with the XL so I don't ride it quite as much.

I briefly had the panniers off this summer to paint the lids black. I forgot how much I like the look without the dorky ammo boxes.

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They do hold a lot of tools, though. Handy.

Then in the process of truing the front wheel with my trusty new stand from Tusk (the front wheel that the PO had put a nasty dent in and that I'd done only a half-assed job of hammering out), I managed to pull a nipple through the rim. Smooth! So I ordered up a new rim and spoke set and bearings, and most importantly, a real spoke wrench, and rebuilt it. No more universal spoke wrenches for me.

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Now it is smooth, for real. Last year this was my cabin bike and the enduro my city bike. Might switch it up this year.

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