Luugo's SL175 Winter Ho-Down
- Thread starter Luugo86
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Luugo86
'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
Hey fellas I'm about to head back into the shop, hoping to get the engine apart short of splitting the cases and get it cleaned up. Going to start on the drum brakes today as well
I've read mixed things-is it possible to replace all the oil seals on this engine without splitting the cases?
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I've read mixed things-is it possible to replace all the oil seals on this engine without splitting the cases?
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Luugo86 said:
Yes you can, but not reliably. And you can't clean out all the crud hiding under the windage tray below the crank without splitting the cases. Better to go ahead and split them and easier on the seals which take a slight crush when the cases are tightened down.
Luugo86
'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
Thanks Teazer. My apprehension is with the transmission. I really don't want to even fuck with it. Is it possible to split the cases, pull the crank and clean things out and replace the seals without having to fuck with the transmission assembly?
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Luugo86
'73 CB350, '78 XS650 Cafe Killer
Just pulled the lock nut for the oil filter cup. It has some chips on the edges and what seems like a center punch mark. It looks like some dumbass tried to just muscle it out with the wrong tool.
My question, is that center punch mark normal, and should I replace this lock nut so as not to compromise the function of the centrifugal filter?
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My question, is that center punch mark normal, and should I replace this lock nut so as not to compromise the function of the centrifugal filter?
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That hole is not OEM, but it is not important. Make sure that it's flat and use a new lock washer on the nut. If you can get a new one, do so. It's peace of mind and cheap.
The trans is so simple you could pull it out hide it come back in a year and pout it back in with your eyes closed. OK, a touch of hyperbole, but there is nothing to it - Except for the fact that you assemble the motor upside down. As long as you have a block of wood to hold it, it's really simple. You can even leave the head an barrels on and pull off the bottom half to replace a broken gear overnight after breaking a gear at Road America. You can guess how I know that....Just drain all the oil first. The "hardest " part is cleaning the two case halves and cleaning out all the threads. And that's only "hard " because it takes time and is messy. It's not difficult
The trans is so simple you could pull it out hide it come back in a year and pout it back in with your eyes closed. OK, a touch of hyperbole, but there is nothing to it - Except for the fact that you assemble the motor upside down. As long as you have a block of wood to hold it, it's really simple. You can even leave the head an barrels on and pull off the bottom half to replace a broken gear overnight after breaking a gear at Road America. You can guess how I know that....Just drain all the oil first. The "hardest " part is cleaning the two case halves and cleaning out all the threads. And that's only "hard " because it takes time and is messy. It's not difficult
I use a bolt the same size(s) as the crankcase bolts (from old builds or spare bolts just make sure it's the same pitch) and cut a V in the threads on either side, file off the burrs and wind them in and out of each threaded hole... since I don't have a metric tap and die and some of em are deep on there. I use a tiny bit of antiseize when bolting em back up in case they gotta be split again (another ask me how I know)
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Yep you got it. It sucks getting your cases stuck back together and there's so much crap in the threads that you can't torque the bolts down. Dirt and crud always manages to get in there somehow.
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Good way to clean out threads. I use a small drill bit by hand and then if the threads are still bad, I use a bottoming tap to clean them out. Then flush them out with a can of carb cleaner. If threads are worn out, it's time for a helicoil thread insert.
It looks like 2 month old baked ziti in there man. I can't even tell what I'm looking at. You need some simple green.
If it's under the sprocket cover it's either heading for your neutral switch or for your stator.
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If it's under the sprocket cover it's either heading for your neutral switch or for your stator.
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