My first build - 75 Honda CL360 Scrambler

So the heat shield that I won on eBay for $50 looks really nice on the outside (except for a few tiny chrome blisters?) but the inside was really rusty so I soaked it in vinegar for almost a week and then scrubbed with low grit steel wool and what a difference! The tank came out looking really nice after the vinegar treatment but I left it alone overnight and now the surface rust on the inside is back. Same thing with the heat shield. the clean side was shiny just shortly before taking this pic. What can I do about the reoccurring surface rust?
 

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Get it coated with something as soon as it's clean.

For the tank, I like POR-15.

The heat shields can do with a touch of VHT paint, after being washed in soap and water and wiped down with alcohol. I'm about 99% sure VHT makes a clear coat, but color might not matter too much since it's on the inside.
 
POR 15 works great but if there aren't any pinholes it's not really worth the fuss. When it's fully de-rusted, I always swish about 12 oz of premix around to coat the inside. Always keep the tank topped off with fuel while storing it to prevent further rust


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Hi, I'm getting my frame powder coated and need to get this rubber off the triple. What is this part called and how do I remove it


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Been a few years since I was working on my 360, but if I'm remembering things correctly, I think I ended up cutting mine off. The bearing race that's holding the rubber in place is pressed. In theory, you can just pull it off the stem, but I never had the correct tools to make it all happen.
 
so it's called a bearing race? i'll need to make sure I can get a replacement before I go cutting it off. I don't find any searching eBay. do you know where I can get a new one?
 
djsmiles said:
so it's called a bearing race? i'll need to make sure I can get a replacement before I go cutting it off. I don't find any searching eBay. do you know where I can get a new one?

I would go with a tapered replacement from AllBalls. Not very expensive and well worth the money.
 
oh yeah, i already ordered the All Balls bearings. so with that I don't need to replace this part, I can just cut it off and move on? Thanks for all your help.
 
djsmiles said:
oh yeah, i already ordered the All Balls bearings. so with that I don't need to replace this part, I can just cut it off and move on? Thanks for all your help.

Yup. You should be good to go. You're going to need to remove it for the AllBalls replacement anyway.
 
Maybe you could help me here with the bearing kit. I ordered All Balls 22-1011 which says it fits my bike but I see All Balls 25-1319 which also fits my bike. Am I confused or which one do I need?
 
djsmiles said:
Maybe you could help me here with the bearing kit. I ordered All Balls 22-1011 which says it fits my bike but I see All Balls 25-1319 which also fits my bike. Am I confused or which one do I need?

One is probably the top race the other is the bottom.
 
Usually comes in a kit. Check all balls website for fitment.

Edit: from all balls website: Steering Bearing kit 22-1011

1319 is a wheel bearing kit.

I use a small dremel wheel and cut diagonally across the lower race. Once you get most of the way through, a hammer and drift will usually help it pop off without damaging the stem underneath.
 
advCo said:
I use a small dremel wheel and cut diagonally across the lower race. Once you get most of the way through, a hammer and drift will usually help it pop off without damaging the stem underneath.

Yup. Exactly what I did, too.
 
hold it on a block of wood and use a screwdriver to tap down on the seal/race it will come off
 
So I've been scrubbing on the engine trying to get the oxidation and discoloration off. I've tried the recommended products with scrubbing pads and steel wool which take off some but not all. The dark spots really bother me. Any suggestions?


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djsmiles said:
So I've been scrubbing on the engine trying to get the oxidation and discoloration off. I've tried the recommended products with scrubbing pads and steel wool which take off some but not all. The dark spots really bother me. Any suggestions?


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What's your plan? If you leave it uncoated, oxidation will come back right away. If you clear coat it, they all ways seem to yellow on motors.

I have had good luck painting my motors with aluminum high temp paint. If will give you the uniform look and it lasts.


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I would really like to leave it looking like it was from the factory. Bare metal. I don't want a black engine. I think it makes the cool details disappear


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Most modern motorcycle motors came painted from the factory. Not sure on the 1970's bikes.

Here is my old 360 motor - see the build thread in my sig.

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And here is my Moto Guzzi

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after soda blasting -

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Short of completely disassembling and having the parts vapor blasted, this is the easy and cheap way to get it. there are different color, I played with stainless & aluminum colors and different brands to make it look more like it is not just spray bombed.
 
Rustoleum Aluminum colored enamel ends up looking pretty good, I think.
 

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those engines look awesome. I didn't realize most engines were painted. I just got the frame back from being powdercoated and am really anxious to get the engine installed but now I'm going to have to pick out colors to paint the engine before putting it back in the frame. thanks for the info!
 
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