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How many coats did you give your tank? I'm thinking two light/medium wet coats. With the other clear coat I've used (non 2K) I did two light dusting coats, then one medium wet coat but from what I've read this stuff goes on differently. Maybe three light wet coats if I want to avoid runs? Pretty new to this aerosol painting lark!
On my CX500 tank and seat I did like 3 good wet coats, not heavy but wet. I rushed a bit between 2-3 and got a very slight run/sag on one spot. When I painted the Magna for my Boss, I set a damn timer and did 5 coats, didn't get runs on the tank or covers but just a little on the side of the front fender that I buffed out easily. I am going to be doing all the parts of the GL and a buddies tank and fender from a VTX1300 in a few weeks. I did 5 coats on the Magna because I buried pin stripes and decals under and was buffing it to shine and didn't want a chance the decals would come through my 3 coat CX tank is going on 4-5th riding season and looks as good as the day I did it, even after multiple gas spills every season.
While the frame's at powdercoat I'm working on my hoops. Before I get the new rubber on figured I'd do a number on the round things.
Got the spokes out (finally - had to soak the nipples in PB Blaster overnight to get them to budge) and now knocking 35 years of ugly off them. Gave them a Metal Rescue bath overnight which took the rust off and then got the wire wool out to try and move the deep dark oxidisation.
After about 5 spokes and cramping fingers I thought there has to be an easier way, came up with this -
The Jimb-o-matic spoke restorer. Works a charm. Spoke in the dremel, right hand holding some wire wool on the spoke at the hook end before I turned on the dremel (to stop the end of the spoke going balls out haywire), then crank it and run another piece of wire wool up and down the length of the spoke with my other hand.
Once they were all cleaned up, repeated the process but using Autosol polish. Man they look good
Next step will be to give them a good wax, then I'll consider it job done.
Sorry to bring bad news, but your no doubt beautifully rejuvenated spokes likely will not look good for long. The metal rescue will have removed most of the plating along with the oxidation, and your polishing will have removed any remaining protection. So unless you started with stainless spokes somehow, you now have beautifully polished bare steel spokes. With only wax to protect them I'm afraid they will rust most dreadfully in very short order. It's so much work (as you are finding out) to restore and rebuild your wheels you may wish to consider either painting (or powder coating) your spokes or swapping them out for some stainless replacements. Painting them has issues when you re assemble and are pretty fragile in use which makes the stainless such a good choice, but unless you can find the correct sizes sourced from China (or elsewhere) you'll be spending some premium money at Buchanan's. Top quality parts though - you get what you pay for.
Also - you got a license to drive that toaster oven?!!
You may be able to use the same 2K clear on the spokes as the tank and save your work. only thing that would suck is you get everything put back together only to have them rust on you half way through the season or something.
Totally hear you! I thought about that, but these spokes were in pretty rough shape to start with - any plating on them was pretty much long gone already. These spokes were blacker than a stack of black cats in a coalmine - rusted and oxidized. I'm not holding out for them to look great forever, and I'll see if I can find a more specialized product for protecting the spokes (over the Once A Year wax I have at the moment) for as long as possible. Gonna run what I brung =)
Totally going renegade on the toaster oven - need to murder it out so the thing's more stealth.
You may be able to use the same 2K clear on the spokes as the tank and save your work. only thing that would suck is you get everything put back together only to have them rust on you half way through the season or something.
I thought about doing that too mate, probably a much better idea than wax. Thanks for reminding me that cutting a corner may seem like a good idea at the time, but rarely is. Act in haste, repent in leisure...
If I go that route, guess I should skip the polishing-with-Autosol part, right? The spokes will need to be keyed up (will 0000 wire wool be enough?) to help the clear coat to adhere?
How much should I be shelling out for powder coating my rims? Just trying to get an idea before I decide to have it done or not. I'm in Canada if that changes anything re. pricing
I got a set done for my bosses Magna for $150.00 and that was reasonable. in Fredericton NB, there should be some good competition in MTL that you can find a reasonable price. Also if you get black that is the cheapest option most of the time as they can coat them while doing larger commercial batches.
not sure, it was prep, mask bearing holes etc and powder in gloss black. How they prepped I didn't ask but likely was sand blasted to get the old factory finish off the alloy wheels.
Link to what I had done I forgot I also got the shock springs done for the price.
I will see if I can find some contacts. I used to buy castings in MTL and have them coated for work. It's been 10 years but I had a smallish shop I used that did good work at decent rates. If I can find them I'll send you their info.
Thanks mate - would would you recommend? Think the sandblasting will take care of the scuffing of should I do something before I hand them over? Or maybe I should rethink the whole thing, try the aluminium foil trick and see if I can get the chrome looking decent enough that I don't need to powdercoat
Thanks mate - would would you recommend? Think the sandblasting will take care of the scuffing of should I do something before I hand them over? Or maybe I should rethink the whole thing, try the aluminium foil trick and see if I can get the chrome looking decent enough that I don't need to powdercoat
Try the aluminum first IMO, then if not all you need is a light scuff with 220 paying closer attention to the pitted spots. I sprayed mine with rattle can black epoxy and haven't had any chips from road wear yet.
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