CB360's-from build to blog - 2013, MDS (Mo Dumb Shit)

From your experience, do you think cb360's work better with 2 into 1, or keeping them 2-2?
 
Because of the 180 degree crank they should work better with a 2:2 but I haven't found a lot of difference.
On the street it doesn't really matter much which you use but if I was building a 'race' motor I would probably go with a 2:2
 
I'm about to order a copper head gasket from Lani for my 378. Is 1.06mm thick and the bores cut to 69.5mm is right? Thanx!
 
1.06 is same as stock thickness. Bores at 69.5 give 0.25mm clearance at top of cylinder. 69mm will 'move' into combustion chamber when hot and can contact piston crown
 
crazypj said:
1.06 is same as stock thickness. Bores at 69.5 give 0.25mm clearance at top of cylinder. 69mm will 'move' into combustion chamber when hot and can contact piston crown

Excellent! 1.06mm & 69.5mm is what I'll order then, thanx!
 
You need to check piston to valve clearances with some clay (plasticene on top of piston)
There were production variations over the years and some GS piston combo's get a little close to head/valves
It's the reason I don't recommend skimming 0.020" off head and/or block any longer.
Honda probably bumped the compression slightly but didn't tell anyone? (sounds reasonable to me ;D )
 
crazypj said:
You need to check piston to valve clearances with some clay (plasticene on top of piston)
There were production variations over the years and some GS piston combo's get a little close to head/valves
It's the reason I don't recommend skimming 0.020" off head and/or block any longer.
Honda probably bumped the compression slightly but didn't tell anyone? (sounds reasonable to me ;D )

Understood, thanx! I figure the thing is going to be more healthy, that's the idea, right? However when it's all said and done it's still a 40+ year old less than half-liter bike that will never be a 'Busa or anything close so why try and take the specs out to the edge to gain a half horse or a few extra RPMs. I hope to make it run and run well, but don't intend to get obsessed with trying to squeeze out every last bit of possible gain. 8)
 
One thing that will 'scare' other bigger bike owners, just how damn quick it can get off the line and to around ~60mph without appearing to be revving stupid high. Launch around 5~6K and rev it to normal red-line
Unless your with a group who know what they are doing, you won't have much if any problem on 80~90mph roads 8)
 
crazypj said:
You need to check piston to valve clearances with some clay (plasticene on top of piston)
There were production variations over the years and some GS piston combo's get a little close to head/valves
It's the reason I don't recommend skimming 0.020" off head and/or block any longer.
Honda probably bumped the compression slightly but didn't tell anyone? (sounds reasonable to me ;D )

+1

I swapped over to GS850 pistons with .040" skimmed and had clearance issues.
 
Been screwing around with Jeep Liberty transmission last few (months?)
42RLE is a weak point on them but Liberty owners groups get real upset when you mention how fucked up they get.
All the planetary gears are totally trashed but all the clutch friction and steel plates just about perfect
I think son-in - law or stepdaughter did a 'bootleg turn from reverse to forward and broke it but everyone is saying they were ' just driving along'
Does anyone know of any modifications other than enlarging hole in valve plate and modifying one of the shuttle valves?(without spending any more money)
Surprised the parts were not totally outrageous, around $700.00 with shipping (modified trans around $6,000, re-build, ~$1,600 minimum)
Here's some pics of carnage
Jeep%20trans3.jpg

Jeep%20trans4.jpg

Jeep%20trans2.jpg

Jeep%20trans%201.jpg

Jeep%20trans5.jpg

sorry that one is so blurry, trying to get pic of the 'removed' gear teeth ;)
This is service manual pic of the parts
Planetary%20gears.jpg
 
crazypj said:
Been screwing around with Jeep Liberty transmission last few (months?)
42RLE is a weak point on them but Liberty owners groups get real upset when you mention how fucked up they get.
All the planetary gears are totally trashed but all the clutch friction and steel plates just about perfect
I think son-in - law or stepdaughter did a 'bootleg turn from reverse to forward and broke it but everyone is saying they were ' just driving along'
Does anyone know of any modifications other than enlarging hole in valve plate and modifying one of the shuttle valves?(without spending any more money)
Surprised the parts were not totally outrageous, around $700.00 with shipping (modified trans around $6,000, re-build, ~$1,600 minimum)
Here's some pics of carnage

I'm certainly not an auto transmission guy, but it seems like that's a whole bunch more damage than would just all of a sudden happen. Put it back together, pour in some sawdust, & trade it in quick?
 
It won't run at all with the trashed gears so that hasn't been an option.
They paid almost $20,000 for it about 10 yrs ago, it's only worth about $1,500 as a non-runner (trans happened about 3 months after I re-built top of engine)
It's only worth about $4,500~$5,000 so a 'new' transmission was hardly worthwhile.
As it is though, when I did top end the ports were cleaned up slightly, exhaust manifolds cleaned up a lot
The piss poor casting cores for front cylinders were probably why trans failed after top end re-build, 6 cylinders actually making power instead of 4 plus 2 'just hanging around ;D ('holes' for front cyls either side only about 1-1/4", the other 4 about 1-3/4"x 1-1/2")
At least cast iron grinds easy ;)
With all new parts it should be good for at least another 150,000 miles.
The same trans is used in Dodge Charger and Challenger, it can take the power (up to 500bhp) but the weight of Jeep may be the issue?
I'm going to do some mods to make trans more reliable (they are real simple as far as I can tell)
Back to bikes soon 8)
 
It's done about 145,000 so material was probably OK
Personally I think it was a deliberate 'flat out reverse, slam into drive' scenario as they are going through a divorce
Originally stepdaughter had it but son-in-law was driving when it broke.
The 42RLE has a lot off issues with overheating but fluid was good and all the plates are in 'like new' condition (except a single plate worn slightly on one side)
All the plates in main input clutch are good, they should be the first to show wear.
Very doubtful the truth will ever come out
 
Do you have an LKQ or similar pick and pull yard? LKQ sells transmissions for $128. It's sort of a crap shoot, but might be worth the gamble. At least if you can pull from a totalled rig with low mileage.
 
Transmission is all fixed and working well.
Only issue, got wires crossed somehow above tranny, had to go to dealer to 'fix' it.
Luckily, someone there had seen the problem before so it was fixed real quick (and not too expensive)
The cheapest we could find a used tranny was $450.00 but no guarantee it was any better than original.
Son-in-law drove it to Texas day after it was fixed, stayed a week then drove back so a pretty good test run.
 
crazypj said:
Transmission is all fixed and working well.
Only issue, got wires crossed somehow above tranny, had to go to dealer to 'fix' it.
Luckily, someone there had seen the problem before so it was fixed real quick (and not too expensive)
The cheapest we could find a used tranny was $450.00 but no guarantee it was any better than original.
Son-in-law drove it to Texas day after it was fixed, stayed a week then drove back so a pretty good test run.

Damn if it isn't good to be handy....
 
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