Color sanding a frame

Rusnak_322

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
I recently painted my frame. I bought a new gun and the big cup made it hard to get to some of the inside areas. I wound up shooting clear from several different angles. It looked great at first, but now that I look closer, there are areas that have some overspray.

I have never buffed something like a 1" tube before, only panels and tanks.

I have a porter cable buffer. I was thinking of wet sanding starting at 800 and going 1000, 1500, 2000 then using polishing compound.

Any tips / tricks?

Use my hands to hold the paper or should I make something with close to the OD of the tube?

Should I hand polish or try the da buffer?

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I think I would avoid the buffer except on super easy to get to spots. Gee, it looks pretty good in the pics, but you can sand out the peel and hand polish pretty fast if you flatten it with #2000. Keep away from any inside or outside corners with the sandpaper so you don't need to polish these hard to get to and easy to cut through areas. They are usually not very noticeable for peel and will keep the shine as sprayed.
 
Thanks for the help
It isn't orange peel, but overspray where I was putting the final heavy coat on. It feels like sandpaper.
It is places I know I have good coverage.
Do you think I should start with 2000 or start with a corse paper and finish at 2000


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I'd probably start with #600 but just knock off the worst of it and then go straight to #2000. The reason is that that sort of thing usually cuts down very easily, but you want things to be pretty straight before you go that fine or it can look ripply. You need to be able to remove 100% of the #600 scratches with the #2000 (which should not be too tough). Otherwise you will be there a long time hand polishing.
 
Start with 1000 grit and always progress through the grits. 1000 eliminates the overspray. 1200 takes out the 1000 scratches. 1500 takes out the 1200 scratches. And 2000 takes out the 1500 scratches. It sounds like more steps, but it's actually less work.
 
mix some liquid soap with the water , put a couple drops in it, the soap break surface tension of water and sands much better. I would start with the finest paper you can that cuts the ruff parts down..try 1500 and wetsand the area. and then up to 2000 then to 3000 if you want, that grit polishes easily , if 1500 is taking to long drop down to 1200.

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Rusnak_322 said:
Thanks for the help
It isn't orange peel, but overspray where I was putting the final heavy coat on. It feels like sandpaper.
It is places I know I have good coverage.
Do you think I should start with 2000 or start with a corse paper and finish at 2000


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Thanks
I did it yesterday and today. It wasn't too bad, I started with 2,000 grit in warm water with soap. Then went to Groits # 3 polish, then #2.

Came out good, have one area where there are some light pin size dots, the paint must have been thin. Not in a very obvious area, luckily


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I know I'm not going to be any help here but had a question about your seat. I really like it wondering where you got it.


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from the place in the banner at the top of every page - Dime City Cycles

http://www.dimecitycycles.com/cafe-brown-dcc-originals-pleated-rustic-leather-wrapped-special-edition-cafe-seat.html

it wasn't cheap, but it is very nice, I am glad I splurged and went with real leather. I am usually a cheap skate and would have bought a eBay knock-off. It fits my frame perfect and it is pretty comfy from what I can tell so far. The rearsets are so high and the seat so low that my knees hurt and that may mask any butt pain.

because I am a picture whore - here is another shot

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