Yes, another CB360 Project - BRGT

Sonreir said:

Eliminating the white wire will also eliminate some of your charging capabilities. I'd try to fix it, if that's the case.

Click to expand...

I opened up the connection and sure enough the white wire was just idling off by himself. As I remember some guys were saying you didn't need it, some suggested splicing it into the yellow wire. I guess I put it off to the side for future use.

It is now spliced into the yellow wire connection, and the AC voltage hasn't changed, but, there is more charging voltage at the battery, so I guess I'm good. I'll keep plugging along and we'll see what happens.

Thanks for your thoughts Matt.

trek97 said:

Sorry, I cant help w the trouble.
But Im excited to see you are back.

Click to expand...

Thanks Trek. I'll finish up wiring and post updates as I move onto the seat phase. ;D

Headlamp assembly is coming together. I'm not sure why, but I really like this cobbled together piece. There's still a few things left on it. I like having the ignition switch built into it. Need to round off the corners of the support bracket. Add screen on the vents underneath. Find some high temp resistant glass for the front. It has a cool beefy look to it. We'll see how it looks when finished.

I love the Tomaselli lever set and the strong triple tree.
The headlight seems so abnormality, with my stock Cb 350 alternator, headlight should be less than 60 w so it could maintain smooth ride.
Viet

You'll get about 52% less voltage checking on DC
If you want to check stator output you disconnect it completely and run off the battery
Is that HID light?

Viet said:

I love the Tomaselli lever set and the strong triple tree.
The headlight seems so abnormality, with my stock Cb 350 alternator, headlight should be less than 60 w so it could maintain smooth ride.
Viet

Click to expand...

Thank you Viet. You and I are good friends. I highly recommend Acacia Vintage Motorcycles for any support. http://acaciavintagemotorcycles.com/

The headlight is a makeshift halogen lamp, 50 watts.

crazypj said:

You'll get about 52% less voltage checking on DC
If you want to check stator output you disconnect it completely and run off the battery
Is that HID light?

Click to expand...

Thank you Peter for this valuable electrical troubleshooting info. I'm just stumbling along with this build, but that's half the fun learning as you go.

As mentioned to Viet, lamp is standard R20 12v 50 watt, or whatever lamp I want to put it there. It's not HID, but pretty bright. It might not work, but we'll see.

Thanks.

Forgot to mention, just check AC between pairs of output wires (Yellow, White, Pink)
The light green with red tracer is neutral switch
You should be getting around 50~90 v AC @ 5,000 rpm but I've seen 110 AC-V on a C90 @ 9,000rpm (way above normal testing range but wondered just how high it would go ;D )

crazypj said:

Forgot to mention, just check AC between pairs of output wires (Yellow, White, Pink)
The light green with red tracer is neutral switch
You should be getting around 50~90 v AC @ 5,000 rpm but I've seen 110 AC-V on a C90 @ 9,000rpm (way above normal testing range but wondered just how high it would go ;D )

Click to expand...

Thanks Peter. I'll check them and see what I get. Still not sure why I was getting 27.9v with the engine not running. Perhaps that was the Kohler R/R unit. It sounds like I need to check the stator leads before they go into the R/R unit.

I used to use a amp gauge to test the out put on the out put line of the rectifier. It should be over 7A at 3000 to 4500 rpm. More simple way is using a 75watt headlight bulb, to connect to the out put ( the bulb is grounded to frame ground) at idle, and at 3000 rpm, it should be full light as you connect it to a good battery ( the bulb is very hot- becareful). That is ok charging system.

350/360 only charges about 1 amp @5,000rpm so an ammeter is a better way to check-IF you know how to use it

crazypj said:

350/360 only charges about 1 amp @5,000rpm so an ammeter is a better way to check-IF you know how to use it

Click to expand...

I used an amp meter 10-0-10 with small scale in between from a vintage bike. with my 350, it shown over 7 when I rev it over 4000. Got to use different gauge if you re right. In addition, I measure the amp at source and you might measure the amp at "charging battery". That might brings different result. In my rough calculation, for stock power consumption, the ignition coil will cost at least 45watt (12vdc @ 3.2 ohm coil) and 35watt headlight bulb + signal lens (20watt), so the power consumption should be around 100 - 120 watt if including charging battery and waste power due to wiring resistance. So the out put for a good alternator and rectifier should be 14vdc @ 8 amp to maintain the bike to run with all light whilst charge the battery.

I've got a couple of those, I'll see about wiring one up next week to check.

Ahh, the joys of bringing a bike to life.

I installed the chain, bundled up the wiring for now, put the gas tank back on and fired it up. I slipped it into 1st gear, and took off slowly down the street. And, that's about all I can get out of her. The bike won't shift into any other gear.

I've searched and read a lot of information. I have one question to start with. Looking at the stopper plate below, should the stopper cam or wheel be sitting on the "point" of the wheel when in neutral, or should it be nestled in the "valley"?

I don't remeber if it's possible to position it either way. I believe when I put the transmission back together I had the stopper roller, not on a point, but down in the valley or round part of the roller.

Before today I could easily shift from neutral down to 1st, back up to neutral, and up to 2nd without the bike running. I know the bike has to have the engine running and moving to shift it completely through all gears. But since today's ride, something has changed. It doesn't shift like that anymore. I have a bad feeling I'm going to have to tear everything apart.

The spring and #10 ball bearing for the neutral detent are functioning and in place.

Thanks guys.

Yep, that's neutral.
The neutral detent is in the drum, the bolt on top of crankcase is hollow and has spring with ball bearing

Thank you Peter. Sounds like I've got some adjusting to do. By the way, as always, the carb work you did is fantastic. Although I was stuck in 1st gear, it ran like a champ.

Well, I took the right side cover off in order to see where the transmission stop was hitting. Looks like it's dead on where it should be.

The one thing I didn't do after having torn the engine down, I didn't check the clutch plates. Checking them now, everything is in pretty good shape. Clutch thickness is 2.6 mm (2.7 - 2.3mm) and the springs measure 31.25mm, right at target.

During my test ride yesterday I had difficulty getting the bike into 1st gear on takeoff after a dead stop, and after moving, it didn't want to upshift. I wonder if these are touchy machines that require you to "move" the wheels just slightly to get the gear to engage at a dead stop?

Below is a video shifting the gears to see if anyone detects a problem. Thanks for your opinion.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ttHHHVsbKOc&feature

LOOKS like things are binding up and that arm is not moving forward and backward far enough. That nut that PJ mentioned that is on top of the tranny case right above the shift drum. Take it out, don't lose the spring or ball, and see what you get. Might check that your shift pedal isn't binding on anything or that shaft isn't sticking in the housing.

Other thing that it MIGHT be is that the clutch is not opening far enough. I had issues with mine when I first got it because the ball in the actuator on the sproket side was worn so badly that I couldn't adjust the clutch in enough to get it to shift properly.

Hey Frogman,
When I had the engine completely torn down I checked the ball and spring, but it might be a good idea to replace both this one and the #10 in the clutch actuator.

Thanks for your advice, I appreciate it!

Mike

Looks pretty normal to me.
Without the shafts turning the engagement dogs butt up against each other instead of sliding in side by side
You can probably get all the gears if you hold output shaft and rock input shaft while shifting