The Twinstar Project

Stock pegs are for sure. Don't want to mess with rearsets (that's for the RD). I'm thinking about shaving the foam on the stock seat, since the top layer is pretty crusty anyways.
 
CALfeRacer said:
Stock pegs are for sure. Don't want to mess with rearsets (that's for the RD). I'm thinking about shaving the foam on the stock seat, since the top layer is pretty crusty anyways.

I'd cut down those 'humps' in the rear seat position to make it as flat as possible from front to back.Do you have an upholstery person there who can build you a custom seat cover once you're done?

I just sent my CB125 seat out to a decent forum member on another forum who had his local person install a flat piece of closed-cell foam on top of my drivers/front section after cutting out a chunk of original foam and then recover it w/ her own custom cover;it doesn't say 'Honda' on the back anymore but sure is comfy up front after many hrs. in the saddle.I had them do what Sargents does but for less than half the price.I use the little bike for everything even long rides.
 
I don't have an upholstery person. I was gonna start looking around town though. I like the idea of flattening out the whole thing though.
 
Good and bad news. After a bit of struggle, engine is in the frame. I'll need to make a new top mount. Also, stock carb isn't even close to fitting in the older frame. So, I'll either run single mikuni or look in to making a two carb setup, which would eliminate most of my clearance issues.
I also found a pretty big JB Weld patch on the case next to the sprocket. Looks like it's solid, but I'll be sure to check for leaks when it's running. If that's the case, I might end up swapping the 250 top end on to the 200 cases and trying to swap in the 5 speed. Time will tell on that one
Almost forgot: on top of that, the splines on the shift shaft for the 250 are pretty bad. I should have a spare from a parts motor that will get swapped in. This can be done with the engine in the frame, correct?
 
Couple of pictures...
Here's the JB Weld patch job.
e91a8ee9475aa8303eca6b244987370c.jpg

Here's a shot of how tight the clearance with the frame is. I'm guessing it's because the 250 had a longer stroke than the 200.
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So, I'm looking up carburetors and trying to figure out what direction to go. The stock carb is a Keihin PD23. Its a bit rough, but I think I can make it work. A Mikuni VM22 will also fit on the manifold the PD uses. I could also use a Keihin PE26 with the intake I got from grcamna5. Or, I could use a PE28 with the stock CM250 intake. I'd rather not use the intake I have, since it is pretty hard and I feel like it won't make a good seal (regardless of cracks, since I can patch those). I like the idea of the VM22 because of jet availability, but it also seems like it wouldn't be enough carb since that's what I have on my CB135. On the other hand, the PE26 I can't find new, so I'd have to get a used one.
Or, I could start chopping up a spare manifold and trying to figure out running a dual carb setup. ;)
 
Anyone have some advice on what to do as far as carbs? At this point I'm about to just clean out the PD23 from the 200 and see if it'll work.
 
If you are after a new one check out OKO carbs. The should have what you need.
 
CALfeRacer said:
I've seen a few of those. Wasn't sure about the quality
Decent if you get a genuine OKO. Surprisingly there are knockoffs.

OKO make a heap of replacement carbs for bultaco bikes and such.
 
Are there any pre-2007 ninja 250 owners following who could help me out? I'm planning on using a set of headers, but wanted to make sure they will hang low enough to clear the engine and such. Just need a measurement of how far down they go before turning and how far from the head they go before turning. Thanks!
 
Couple of updates from today.
New bars are on! Went with super bike bars. I like em.
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Bad news is the speedometer isn't working. Put a new cable on, lifted the front wheel and spun it as fast as I could but got nothing. I'm going to look for a small speedo on eBay or at a salvage yard this weekend.
Swapped out the shift shaft, which was quick and easy.
62e95f4e18367774ee2062233ddce40e.jpg

Also mocked up foot pegs. Plan is to use stock 250 pegs swapped left to right, so they bend back instead of forward. Gives a more standard position. I'm going to need to shorten the brake pedal for sure, and I need to scrounge up a shifter to figure out if that'll need shortening too.
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I'm planning on using the clutch perch and controls from a GS550 I parted out. This will go with a brake perch and lever from a Suzuki.. Some kind of RM I believe? The stock right control is toast. I'll pick up a universal throttle and use a push button I have laying around for the starter. Probably a toggle for the kill switch.
 
The speedo on my 72 CL100 was stuck. (sat in a shed since 1978) Wouldnt work w new cable. Had nothing to loose. Except the $ for a new one. So, I popped it open, sprayed a little penetrant on the do-hickies, gave things in there a few flicks. Been working great ever since.
 
DohcBikes said:
Raciest thread going.

HA.

That one had the stainless bottom to it w a couple screws. pulled screws and gently worked the ring off w a screwdriver. The black plastic body came out w a couple small cracks. But only under the stainless ring. Dont show at all, once reassembled.

Just took a look at the speedo on the old ladys Twinstar CM200. Looks to be about the same deal, only the bottom cover appears to be black plastic rather than stainless steel.
 
trek97 said:
The speedo on my 72 CL100 was stuck. (sat in a shed since 1978) Wouldnt work w new cable. Had nothing to loose. Except the $ for a new one. So, I popped it open, sprayed a little penetrant on the do-hickies, gave things in there a few flicks. Been working great ever since.

+1
 
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