CB360 project

thrillseeker said:
I think I have a very similar issue advco. If I loosen the axle nut, the wheel spins freely. But as soon as I tighten it there's serious resistance. Time to order another set of bearings.

Try tapping the bearings out of their seats just a smidge. If that remedies the problem you know that's it. I wouldn't run them after that, but it will help diagnose.
 
Well, I decided that if they were spinning freely with no axle but once the axle was tightened down something was binding, made sense that maybe the bearings weren't in far enough. Tapped the outer ring on each to make sure they were seated well, put the axle back on and she spins freely. I'm gonna continue riding these for now. I did order a new set so if these go out I have spares.

In the meantime I'm going to order a caliper rebuild kit and shorter brake line. The one I have on there is too long. I have to say though, I really like this cbr master cylinder. Being able to bleed from up top is great.
 
You CAN'T tighten the axle too much and make bearings 'stick' The outer races cannot be properly seated and need to go further into hub.
Correct procedure.
Use a tube to fit outer race into LEFT side of hub, DO NOT bang on centre of bearing A lot of people will say to use a socket but I've found the chamfer on end either slips position or prevents bearing fully seating.
Fit bearing retaining ring
Slide axle through bearing, flip wheel, fit centre spacer (it only fits properly in one direction if you still have centering 'spider' in place) position right side bearing and use tube to bash on outer race until centre is holding spacer.
Remove axle and fit from correct direction (right to left, tube nut on disc side)
 
Yeah I think that was the problem. The outer races were not properly seated. So when the axle was tightened it was very slightly warping the bearing. It was a very minute amount because I didn't notice the bearing move at all after tapping the outer races again. But it definitely made a difference


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thrillseeker said:
I also got sick of my master cylinder leaking so I decided to buy a replacement. I wanted to upgrade if I could so I did a bunch of research and decided on a 2007 CBR RR master cylinder from someone on eBay. I needed to get a mc with separate reservoir so it wouldnt interfere with my clipon brackets. I have to say that this was my best purchase for the bike yet! This mc is much stronger than the cb360 mc. It takes less effort to brake. In addition to the performance, the ability to bleed the brakes from the master cylinder makes brake bleeding a non issue anymore. To top it all off, the levers are adjustable. What a great purchase!!! I highly recommend a cbr mc for anyone else with a vintage cb!

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I was under the impression that you couldn't use a MC from a bike with 2 disks on a bike with a single disk. Am I wrong on this? I have been searching for a new front MC for my wife's XS400 and don't want to buy used and risk getting another junk one.
 
Rusnak_322 said:
I was under the impression that you couldn't use a MC from a bike with 2 disks on a bike with a single disk. Am I wrong on this? I have been searching for a new front MC for my wife's XS400 and don't want to buy used and risk getting another junk one.

Rusnak, I just put this one on my wifes CB400 and it works great (1/2 inch piston for single disk)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brake-Master-Cylinder-with-Lever-Honda-Yamaha-Suzuki-Kawasaki-Black-7-8/281199919559?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
Rusnak_322 said:
I was under the impression that you couldn't use a MC from a bike with 2 disks on a bike with a single disk. Am I wrong on this?

I hadn't heard that. Do you know why that is? This one seems to work really well.


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Well the amount of fluid required to operate twice as many calipers will be more than one caliper. Same if you go from a single piston sliding caliper to a 4 piston opposed caliper.
I would think that it would make the front brake more of a on-off switch without any modulation.


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There's plenty of travel in the cbr lever for me to be able to modulate braking force. Definitely not an on/off switch.


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Got my front brake all sorted out. Took the caliper apart and sure enough there was a good bit of gunk behind the seal. Scraped it all out, put a new seal in with caliper grease and she's returning like a champ. I noticed the pad was binding slightly in the cylinder too so I sanded away some of the paint that was preventing it from sliding smoothly. Ebc really seemed to cake the paint on. The other thing I did was get a shorter brake line. The one I had was a little too long and kind of did a little loop so it had a high spot where air could get trapped.

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