Cams not getting oil

cxman said:
if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams

the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap

Ok wow I prob should have known that, thanks
 
cxman said:
if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams

the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap
I went in the shop to inspect this. It's insane, went through every lobe and they all look perfect, one had a dark scar but not even the slightest groove or score. I'm going to go through it again when I get em off.
 
cxman said:
if its been running with dry cams you are going to need at least another head and cams

the cam runs right on the aluminum head no oil film you have scrap
Glad you mention that as well, i dont think he read it when i mentioned that

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Joseph New York said:
I went in the shop to inspect this. It's insane, went through every lobe and they all look perfect, one had a dark scar but not even the slightest groove or score. I'm going to go through it again when I get em off.
Did you remove the cam caps? You need to check the bearing surfaces first. But if no blue lobes and no scored bearing surfaces, then guess what? You have oil pressure up there.
 
datadavid said:
Did you remove the cam caps? You need to check the bearing surfaces first. But if no blue lobes and no scored bearing surfaces, then guess what? You have oil pressure up there.

I didn't, in fact I can't say for sure that I got a proper look at everything.

And your right, I'm totally open for the fact that the shop misdiagnosed everything. I rode her hard for a long time with little side effect and little to no wear.

The real test is when I get her home and and take her top off ;)
 
Pull the sump off and check the pick up isn't blocked.
If motoir has been apart and silicon sealer used, you can almost guarantee it's blocked at least one feed hole. Worst case scenario is the outer rotor of oil pump broken.
Oh, pull oil filter and check the spring and washer are in place (and the pressure release valve in bolt isn't stuck open)
The engine is about 212lbs, the shape makes it real awkward to move around and get out of frame. Couple of people have used carr engine hoists to lift it (I'm way too old and fragile to try lifting one nowadays :( )
 
crazypj said:
Pull the sump off and check the pick up isn't blocked.
If motoir has been apart and silicon sealer used, you can almost guarantee it's blocked at least one feed hole. Worst case scenario is the outer rotor of oil pump broken.
Oh, pull oil filter and check the spring and washer are in place (and the pressure release valve in bolt isn't stuck open)
The engine is about 212lbs, the shape makes it real awkward to move around and get out of frame. Couple of people have used carr engine hoists to lift it (I'm way too old and fragile to try lifting one nowadays :( )

Great, pointers to what I should do when I get the bike back is a help. 212lbs!! I'm young but built like a pencil, I'm not picking it up either. Sounds like a I'll be needing to call in on some favors.

What are some tests I should do while the bike is still in the frame, other than leak-down and compression, preferably in the oil category?
 
There should be an oil gallery plug screwed into bottom of right side crankcase. you can fit a pressure gauge there and see what pressure you really have.
 
crazypj said:
There should be an oil gallery plug screwed into bottom of right side crankcase. you can fit a pressure gauge there and see what pressure you really have.

I wish man, DOHCs don't have accessible oil galley ports like SOHC. I think I'm supposed to build my own L pipe fitted to a gauge and replace the oils pressure switch. I wasn't going to ask how can I get a pressure reading in this thread, but yeah, how do I get the pressure? The only tester I know of is OEM 07506-3000001 mentioned in the manual that but costs $300. Any aftermarket solutions out there?
 
The shop who told you 4~5 psi probably looked at " A "manual and only saw that's the switch pressure. In my opinion Honda did a real dumb thing and mounted oil pressure switch on outlet side of pump so oil light goes off as soon as engine starts to turn over. (and if oil light comes on when engine is running, it's already too late to do anything)
That's why I said to check at main oil gallery. I would just get a spare gallery plug (or a short bolt that fits) and drill/tap for a banjo fitting, there isn't any need for a $300.00 gauge as a normal cheapy one will work fine (even if not 100% accurate)
The gallery plug is a 'standard' Honda thread so picking on up from crashed/destroyed motor shouldn't be too difficult
I did buy genuine Honda vacuum gauge set though - in 1978 it cost almost 3 weeks wages but still works fine today so guess the extra quality was worth it (the 'new' mechanical ones were no better than any aftermarket set ;D )
 
crazypj said:
The shop who told you 4~5 psi probably looked at " A "manual and only saw that's the switch pressure. In my opinion Honda did a real dumb thing and mounted oil pressure switch on outlet side of pump so oil light goes off as soon as engine starts to turn over. (and if oil light comes on when engine is running, it's already too late to do anything)
That's why I said to check at main oil gallery. I would just get a spare gallery plug (or a short bolt that fits) and drill/tap for a banjo fitting, there isn't any need for a $300.00 gauge as a normal cheapy one will work fine (even if not 100% accurate)
The gallery plug is a 'standard' Honda thread so picking on up from crashed/destroyed motor shouldn't be too difficult
I did buy genuine Honda vacuum gauge set though - in 1978 it cost almost 3 weeks wages but still works fine today so guess the extra quality was worth it (the 'new' mechanical ones were no better than any aftermarket set ;D )

Cool, so you are suggesting I tap my own oil galley port like the SOHC bikes have and screw in a guage. I could do it, I've seen it done before on an SOHC to to relocate it further in.

Did you say you knew of a cheaper aftermarket guage that I could test the pressure at the switch port? If so I may start there before tapping it. I can only find OEM NOS.

I was also thinking about tapping into the oil line that feeds up from the case to the valves, externally. Would that be a possible place of getting a reading? Could possibly get put in a T pipe.

Thanks
 
this might do it

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autometer-banjo-bolt-2276/10455285-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10455285-P&iv_=__iv_p_1_a_810678608_g_40371513285_w_aud-296857279645:pla-329229809404_h_9009610_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_6201684_f_online_o_10455285-P_z_US_i_en_j_329229809404_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppingcampaigns&gclid=COn-ja3nndQCFdY9gQod7OgDbw#fragment-4


http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/fuel-fitting/russell-m12-x-1-25-banjo-bolt-adapter-fitting-with-1-8-in-npt-female-port-for-use-with-russell-640910-641110-and-641120/773861_0_0
 
cxman said:
this might do it

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/autometer-banjo-bolt-2276/10455285-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=10455285-P&iv_=__iv_p_1_a_810678608_g_40371513285_w_aud-296857279645:pla-329229809404_h_9009610_ii__d_c_v__n_g_x_pla_y_6201684_f_online_o_10455285-P_z_US_i_en_j_329229809404_s__vi__&utm_source=ACQ&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_content=shoppingcampaigns&gclid=COn-ja3nndQCFdY9gQod7OgDbw#fragment-4


http://www.autozone.com/fittings-and-hose-line-connectors/fuel-fitting/russell-m12-x-1-25-banjo-bolt-adapter-fitting-with-1-8-in-npt-female-port-for-use-with-russell-640910-641110-and-641120/773861_0_0

Interesting! Thanks for the links.

Would this banjo bolt fit in the oil switch port and provide a the port to use an aftermarket guage, like this: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pro-67405
 
I think the pressure switch is a 1/8" BSP taper thread?
You should be able to rig something up for less than $50.00. Probably not a good idea to have it permanently fitted, the pressure variations can be frightening (even though it's normal running condition)
I just had to dig out manual as I've been confusing myself with the oil passages. Isn't it possible to remove the gallery plug on top right side then fit a banjo bolt there? (similar to SOHC placement although 'hidden' behind alternator cover)
If you replaced the line with an Aeroquip (or similar) stainless one you could have that Summit gauge permanently mounted.
For $25.00, can't go wrong 8)
 
crazypj said:
I think the pressure switch is a 1/8" BSP taper thread?
You should be able to rig something up for less than $50.00. Probably not a good idea to have it permanently fitted, the pressure variations can be frightening (even though it's normal running condition)
I just had to dig out manual as I've been confusing myself with the oil passages. Isn't it possible to remove the gallery plug on top right side then fit a banjo bolt there? (similar to SOHC placement although 'hidden' behind alternator cover)
If you replaced the line with an Aeroquip (or similar) stainless one you could have that Summit gauge permanently mounted.
For $25.00, can't go wrong 8)

I didn't know about a galley port other than the oil switch? I'll look into it! It's strange that my manual wants us to check at the switch port..

Hopefully I can use the banjo bolt and guage somewhere, and if I find the port under the alt cover, I'll work on building a permanent one. Thanks
 
I think the plug behind alternator cover is 14mm or 16mm thread with a 14mm head. You must use a 6 point socket or it will round over (way too long since I looked inside to remember)
 
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