1974 CB360 electrical tests.

crazypj

Split personality, I fake being smart
This isn't a video just results of tests I just did after fitting a 7.5a/hr sealed gel battery.
didn't want it getting lost

There is an awful lot of BS about how crap the CB360 charging system is (and old bikes in general)
I just fitted a smaller battery (7.5 A/hr) to 1974 CB360.
With lights OFF it's showing 13.4v at idle rising to a max of 15.4v @ 4,000rpm (no need to go higher, once the regulator cuts in, there ain't no more)
With the lights on, (including flashers and brake light, just about maximum load)
1t's reading 13.85v AT IDLE :eek: rising to 15.4v @4,000 rpm
Now, that's not the important bit.
The important thing is, at idle with lights off, the charging amps are ZERO and stay at ZERO to 4,000rpm (load balanced)
With the lights ON, charges about 0.5amp at idle and, the real important bit, approx 1.5amps @ 4,000 rpm (should have used digital instead of analog meter, but was using digital for volts)
I'll run tests again on one of my bikes when I get round to it :D
 
Okay, and forgive my ignorance but what's that all mean? IT doesn't charge with the lights off?
 
Correct, it doesn't charge with lights off but charges at over one amp with lights on.
If your using a small battery, you need to know it's max charge rate.
If it's in the milliamp range, eventually it will probably explode when fitted to bike and charging at 'high' amps
 
Is there some real reason why we can't hotwire the 3 set of windings to charge all the time? I know there is a simple way to do it but why would honda not use all the windings in the first place? Maybe they burn down?
 
yeah CrazyPJ,

I never understood the ranting about cb360's "poor charging system" I've not had a problem with mine
 
Okay then my next question is; Is there a way to regulate the charge rate going to the battery? A different regulator that could be used?

This is great info PJ, Thanks!
 
When they were built daytime running lights were not a requirement.
The excess current shunted to ground creates heat which has to be dissipated.
That's not really problem, it just costs more to build to a higher quality, which kinda defeats the purpose of a 'cheap' bike (plus, the voltage control/regulation wasn't as good 30~40 yrs ago)
I'm going to fit a more modern integrated regulator/rectifier unit (although only about 10~12 yrs newer, early ~mid 80's style)
It is easy to wire all outputs into a new/newer 5~6*1 wire rectifier/reg which will get rid of some potential problems in wiring.

*1
5 wire grounds through body, 3 inputs, output and control voltage, 6 wire has dedicated ground lead
 
I was planning on running a new integrated reg/rec. On this and that battery eliminator from Oregon parts is only $35. I'm thinking that may be the way to go. I may try it both ways and see what happens too.
 
I did some tests this afternoon on my CB360.
Results were quite interesting (at least to me they were.)
max charging volts with good battery
Maxchargevolts.jpg


Max charging amps with low beam, at idle, goes up as rpm increases but I don;t have enough hands to hold meters, leads and camera ;D
IdleChargeAmps.jpg


actual battery voltage with ignition off after about 15mins running
Noloadbatteryvolts.jpg


I fitted the smaller 7.5 amp hr battery and did a quick check.
This is total amp draw with ignition ON but headlight OFF.
Ign coils , switches and neutral light need almost three and a half amps just to 'light up'
You can see battery has dropped by 1volt in the time it took to get camera 'lined up'
The 13.02V is a 'surface voltage and drops off real quick, if bike had been running for longer battery ould have gotten a deeper charge.
It's a good idea to check battery just off charger then again about an hour later to find stabilised voltage
VoltsandAmps.jpg

VoltsandAmps.jpg

BTW, Your mileage may vary ;)
 
I might be understanding this wrong but are you saying that the bike is only supposed to charge when the headlight is on?
 
When the headlight is on it switches extra coils in generator into charging circuit.
At idle, it's still charging at half an amp with a 35w bulb 'burning'
Half amp at nominal 12 volts is only about 6 watts (really closer to 6.5 watts)
It means you cant run more than a 40 watt bulb without flattening battery, 45 watts will be OK as long as rpm is always above 3,000.
If you fit a 60/55w H4 bulb, you will have limited riding time because generator can't produce enough power, even at high rpm
 
OK, an update.
Brendon's bike charges at a slightly higher rate than mine.
He's been using a 60/55 H4 bulb for several months without any issues.
However, he does rev the hell out of it ;D
I re-did ground lead (fitted an extra green wire to center of rectifier mounting bolt and cleaned frame real good around toolbox mounting bolt)
It's working real good (good enough for him to fall down yesterday ;D )
It was in gravel at about 5mph though
 
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