Cb360 Reassembly Help

Ok. I am infact blind, because I had the thrust washer in a bag beside me even labeled. Installed it. Re positioned crank and cam timing. Here are the pictures you asked for pj
 

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Thrust washer goes on other end of cam.Where is the tensioner top cup?Looks like you need to re-set tensioner as well, bit too much of tensioner blade sticking up.What your describing is what happens when early style blade breaks. I`m suspecting you don`t have top cup fitted?BTW, you never try to fit rocker cover without removing inspection caps and backing off adjusters.It's easier to do while taking things apart
 
MiniatureNinja said:
Also with LT lined up, left cam lobes should be down, correct?

Sent from my SM-G955U using DO THE TON mobile app

Yes, it's being assembled on overlap
It's so 'automatic' for me I've had to really think if it makes a difference.
Too 'brain dead' from looking after Jaxon but I think it does.Well spotted
 
Cam timing officially set correctly. Lobes in down position. Washer on correct side. Valve tappets backed all the way out, engine spins freely now. Not as freely as it would with the head cover off, this is my only reference to how it spins now. In my experience with automobile engines they tend to turn freely so I’m not sure if the engine is now correct or not.
Problems:

Installing the cam chain tensioner, as in the manual the tensioner is sticking to far up as pj pointed out, but it seems to be in the correct position. How is this solved, or are there any problems associated with this?
 
the tensioner needs to be backed off... which can be done by splitting the case open, not fun.

the alternative is to source a length of 3mm threaded rod, make a loop in one end of it, and then use the other ended to thread into the tensioner through the case plug - use the loop to pull the tensioner out (with the top adjusting lock bolt backed off) and then tighten up the lock bolt.

EDIT: here is the thread on how to do it
I wish I knew what happened to Lethal and his 360... strange when someone you feel connected to (though never met) disappears
 
Instead of threaded rod I've used old spokes, surprisingly, Honda ones from 70's don't work as they are 1/8" Whitworth thread. Harley |Davidson uses metric
 
How exactly does this work?
Just curious as I don’t know what the tensioner looks like inside of the case.
 
cb360j said:
How exactly does this work?
Just curious as I don’t know what the tensioner looks like inside of the case.
It's a spring loaded c shaped kinda wacky thingy. The top "adjuster" locks it into place, so if you did what I did and backed it off and then did the tensioner it will spring to the most closed or "up" position
 
MiniatureNinja said:
It's a spring loaded c shaped kinda wacky thingy. The top "adjuster" locks it into place, so if you did what I did and backed it off and then did the tensioner it will spring to the most closed or "up" position

So when doing this, is there anything in particular to watch out for ?

Let me get my understanding correct. With the adjusting bolt out, I am threading what is essentially another bolt into the tensioner push bar, then pulling it? Any particular distance it needs to come out? Or will there be any clicking or details indicating that this is done correctly?

Sorry for my ignorance on this, just trying to learn what I can.
 
Re: Cb360 Reassembly Help

cb360j said:
So when doing this, is there anything in particular to watch out for ?

Let me get my understanding correct. With the adjusting bolt out, I am threading what is essentially another bolt into the tensioner push bar, then pulling it? Any particular distance it needs to come out? Or will there be any clicking or details indicating that this is done correctly?

Sorry for my ignorance on this, just trying to learn what I can.
Just pull it out as much as you can, then sinch up the lock bolt. Once you get the motor timed correctly and back together, you back off that lock bolt and you'll hear the tensioner snap into place, then do your rocket clearances, then do the ignition timing
 
If you do a quick search for CB360 cam chain tensioner recall it should come up with multiple posts of the Honda Service Bulletin
 
Sorry for the late response. But update time: fixed the cam chain tensioner, therefore every is now together as it is supposed to be. Going to be putting into the frame this week! Will post pictures when in. Thank you all so much for the help
 
Alright very late post. The headers that came with the bike do not seem to be the correct headers. Or maybe the flanges that came with it are not correct, as they don’t hold the headers on (haven’t noticed this as I haven’t even looked at them since I got the bike itself). But here is a bunch of pictures of the bike now.
 

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there is a two piece collar that the flange butts against to hold the header in place

part 2 on the diagram

images


67408d1445694144-does-look-right-picture-header-opening-cb360-img_20151024_103005.jpg
 
So originally when I pulled the engine, I backed off the rear brake adjuster nut and just pulled out the rod and from there the pedal was able to move down enough to pull the engine out. Now that I am putting it back together, I put the adjuster nut back on and tightened it down but when I push the pedal down it will not 1: return back up, and 2: the rear brake will not engage.
Anyone have any insight as to how I may be doing this incorrectly?
 
If you didn't take brake mechanism off frame you shouldn't be having a problem. Sounds like return spring behind frame tube isn't fitted right or could possibly be over stretched? More pictures ;D
 
Will do as soon as I get off work.

Also, I happen to love the rusty gold on the gas tank but the inside is also rusty. Any methods to clean this out?
Autozone sells some stuff called EvapoRust but have not given it a try.
 
Trek swears by it. You need to knock the worst off first, I`ve heard short `deck screws` work real well to get all the `nooks and crannies` ;)
 
Fixed the break issue, the spring just wasn’t on, I swear I should be more observant before I post on here.

New issue:

Just installed the clutch cable, and did as the FSM said to the T. But the bike is in a constant ‘neutral’, I can change the gears freely without pulling the clutch. Also, the lever will not return.
 
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