1977 GL1000 Double Deuce Hell Ride

The question I'm asking myself is whether to go through with the plan to re-lace the front wheel with a 17" hoop, stick with the stock 19, go 18", or use the stock Marauder 16" dim.

The 19"...

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deviant said:
The question I'm asking myself is whether to go through with the plan to re-lace the front wheel with a 17" hoop, stick with the stock 19, go 18", or use the stock Marauder 16" dim.

The 19"...

b143bfef97c078c8680eb645e8db6fdd.jpg



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The 19 looks great and bigger is better with that motor IMO, but 17 offers lots of tire choices with decent pricing 16 is out of the question... were headed into knighthawk territory with that puny front tire clown bike look so 18 to compromise or 19 to assert the front :eek:
 
The nice thing about the 19 is it lifts the front end a bit, which for these bikes is something needed. They aren't necessarily going to wind through the dragon like a sport bike. I always thought of it as a muscle bike. I can only assume the 19 will hold it upright and straight better on long cruises. The one caveat is a 19 requires a custom fender bracket or fender all together. A very small inconvenience in the grand scheme.

As it sits in the pic, the forks are still 1/2" taller than stock, which is why I consider the 17 or 18. Because, the next issue is spring rate on the front end. I feel like there is too much compression off the lift. I still have to call Racetech, but based on their online calculator, my weight plus the extra weight of the bike calls for 1.151 kg/mm springs and 1.0 is the closest. I'm likely ordering 1.0 kg/mm springs for the VZ forks to handle the extra weight and take some of the softness away. I say all of this without having done anything with fork oil yet, and I'm under the assumption that I can't preload these forks.

Much confusion on my part. When dialing in on Racetech's site, it brings up all of the info and calculators for springs. After downloading a VZ800 FSM, all I see is a dampener, no springs. The question now is how in the hell do I get these forks to handle more weight? Is it all done through fork oil volume?
 

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Maybe source a second top or bottom triple clamp and cut the pinch rings off to fabricate a fender/brace type mount and cast a fender off a tire by applying you plaster mixture directly to a donor tire and sculpting it to form a mold from... you got the skills I seen it :eek: :eek:
 
ITS THE M50 RIGHT ? 600LBDER :eek: ::)
i dont know why you would need stiuffer springs if it weighs same or more than the wing
 
xb33bsa said:
ITS THE M50 RIGHT ? 600LBDER :eek: ::)
i dont know why you would need stiuffer springs if it weighs same or more than the wing
VZ800. Advertised dry weight is 450lbs to 595lbs for the wing. I'm trying to get the weight down on the wing, but I won't get it down that far.
 
deviant said:
;) so if I can get it within 50 - 80 lbs, is it no worry?

well i dunno if you get that close on weight then your could do acupl home brews maybe raise the oil abit and ad some air OOOOOO scary ::)
if the springs are plenty long and not in danger of coil binding or coming real close if you clip off a few coils then that is another route
its the 800 huh ? there has got to be other models of bikes that use avery near same phys. dimension spring
but yeah i woont sweat it untill its all built so you can set the sag and front rear balance to the actual wingweight
but the easy one to play with is air and oil level you dont have to put the fittings up top they can be between the triples hidden mo o less
am i seeing things or are the mawraider clamps got rake ? not that it really matters you gonna find out how she turns when you ride it
but ever pitchur i see of those turds it looks like they got raked clamps
i got about 20 sets of forks springs around here what is the diameter and length , wire size and spacing of them suzi springs ?
 
Haha.

There is rake on the VZ800 in the steering tube. The triple has no offset. Apparently, guys get a 6° offset triple for more rake as a popular aftermarket option.
 
and i think the 19 is a good choice plenty of decent tars available
on another note that spacer you done for the bearing cup really should have good full contact purchase on the cups flat seat, it almost looks like it is just bumping the radius of the cup which is not good for holding it squarely, as thin as it is it is almost like a crush sleeve which is sometimes used between bearings
 
deviant said:
Haha.

There is rake on the VZ800 in the steering tube. The triple has no offset. Apparently, guys get a 6° offset triple for more rake as a popular aftermarket option.

im no comprenday
is the steerring stem paralell with the forks tubes ?
 
The forks are parallel to the GL steering tube. There maaaaaay be a couple of degrees in there, but the angle pulls the wheel towards the frame, not away.
If that makes any sense.
 
xb33bsa said:
on another note that spacer you done for the bearing cup really should have good full contact purchase on the cups flat seat, it almost looks like it is just bumping the radius of the cup which is not good for holding it squarely, as thin as it is it is almost like a crush sleeve which is sometimes used between bearings
Wouldn't be hard to machine a thicker spacer. I'm not seeing clearly how that setup won't keep it square. The steering tube has two seats, essentially. The lower seat is a 4mm step to the outer wall of the tube. The upper seat another 4mm step. The race was originally pressed against the lower seat. My spacer is 2mm, so it's taking up half the depth to the first seat. Everything is pressed in. The spacer to the first seat, the race to the spacer. I had 4mm to make up, but went 5mm on the spacer.
 
I did the exact same thing on the CB Eric.

What I did different is I used a second race and pressed it home then stacked another on top then cut notches in it... then ground it off until i just started sanding the bottom of the tube really only removing paint... then using the belt sander I trued it up removed the new race and re stacked it all with one shim washer. Using a long caliper it came out square and flops back and forth like it should, I still don't know how it will handle but at low speed it turns fine. can't wait to see for sure if I will need a whole new set of trees. I wish I took pictures of that process and on the KZ I am going to make you all sick with step by step shit haha! Of course Oh Darn will apply.
 
my blather was to avoid the situation like if you cut a beer can in half and try to stuff it square on another closed end it just doen't purchase nice, it want to kak onya,, you gotta have good purchase on the bearing cup square end face ,thats all..
yepper bearing cups and races i have used them to turn lathe a part ....just heat up red-orange and burry in some warm dirt or ashes fireplace and next day that shi maka lip burning blue curl ,so nice
the other way is roll a ring- welding rod, wire,or keystock it dint even need to be welded to ther as long as it fit good
 
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Machining the GL hub for 17mm X 47mm X 14mm bearings.


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