Tail loop

cafechris

Been Around the Block
I was trying to figure out a way to plug the frame holes when the rear tail loop was cut off, and came up with this $5 solution. While it may not look as nice as a tubular one, it does the trick for a fraction of the price! AN6 fuel line cut to 21", with approximately 1" pushed into the opening in the frame. I thought I would have to drill the frame/fuel line and place a set screw in to keep it tight, but it took so much effort to shove it in, it's not going anywhere with friction alone.
 

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Probably even cheaper if you went down to the local plumbing shop and bought a sink line.... http://img.weiku.com/a/005/526/High_quality_double_lock_stainless_steel_flexible_hose_7410_1.jpg
 
AB,
Great minds think alike! I considered the sink line (no pun intended!) but decided to use regular fuel line based solely on the proximity of a local speed shop to my house! If I considered the price of the gas to go the extra distance to a plumbing supply store, or a do-it-yourself store-Home Depot, I would probably be breaking even. :p
 
didthetonatten said:
While it may not look as nice as a tubular one, it does the trick for a fraction of the price!

However, the "trick" that the weld in tubular loop performs, is returning the rigidity back to the frame when/where the OEM bracing was/is removed. I don't imagine that braided rubber hose will do that trick very well.
 
Honestly it's probably cheaper to get a .120 wall seat hoop from me and weld it on.
35 bucks shipped to your door lol
 
And it wouldnt look so, ahhhh whats the word.....cheap as fuck. yea thats it
 
I think you may be under the misconception that the seat hoop is solely for aesthetics, sir


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SONIC. said:
Honestly it's probably cheaper to get a .120 wall seat hoop from me and weld it on.
35 bucks shipped to your door lol
A .120 wall seat hoop is only $2.00 worth of metal. A 20 ft length is $23.00 right now.



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Do you have the necessary bender to do it properly? That, is a bit more than $23.
 
deviant said:
A .120 wall seat hoop is only $2.00 worth of metal. A 20 ft length is $23.00 right now.



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This is true, but you buy gas to go drive to buy it, pay your metal guy, pay gas to drive home, pay your electric bill, pay to heat your shop, pay employee insurance, pay your payroll tax, pay your payment on said shop, then go buy a bender, then cut the 23 dollar tube into 30" sections, then put them in the bender and manually bend them up.
The you pay your gas to go to the post office to mail it out.

My point here is find anyone else willing to do it for about 3 dollars profit and we will talk. :D
 
SONIC. said:
This is true, but you buy gas to go drive to buy it, pay your metal guy, pay gas to drive home, pay your electric bill, pay to heat your shop, pay employee insurance, pay your payroll tax, pay your payment on said shop, then go buy a bender, then cut the 23 dollar tube into 30" sections, then put them in the bender and manually bend them up.
The you pay your gas to go to the post office to mail it out.

My point here is find anyone else willing to do it for about 3 dollars profit and we will talk. :D

I hear ya. It really comes down to production. If you're putting out 40+ units /hr and over 100,000 units per year (and selling them) then you're charging less than $10. Believe me, I know every bit about what you're talking about. I manufacture ceramic tile. The more I produce and sell, the less I have to charge because those overhead costs generally stay the same. I'm not trying to knock your price. You have a good product. If that's what the market is willing to pay, then that's what you should charge. I just didn't think it was an argument against this guy for trying to come with another solution (no matter how impractical) if he couldn't or didn't want to pay that much. The other half of the point is he actually paid more for the braided line than the steel costs.
 
I am a woodworker and I make hoops on the side to keep people from having to pay the 60+ that everyone else charges ;)

And I was really just making a joke and saying that stainless tube probably cost around 35 bucks
 
I'm definitely a doof that didn't get the joke. I did notice your hoops are half the price. Seems crazy that peeps want so much.
 
I have not replied to some of these posts just to see where the thread was going to go! ;D First off, let me begin by stating there is a loop on the bike and positioned/welded in the upper circular tube of the cut frame, as I am fully aware of the strength and support this provides to the rear of the bike. I placed the piece of braided line UNDERNEATH the loop as there was a gap between the loop and the bottom of the rear seat that needed to be filled. Also, there was a second more rectangular tube, just below the circular tube, that needed to be addressed. So now I am curious, what have others done to fill in the rectangular tube?!
 
Then why didn't you state in the subject line that is was a Fake, Faux, etc. loop?
And why not say in the OP that it was for aesthetics only and not a substitute for a structural part of the subframe?
Because "While it may not look as nice as a tubular one, it does the trick for a fraction of the price!" could be very misleading to someone not as educated or aware of the strength and support an actual weld-in tail loop provides ;)
 
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