CL360 engine build questions

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LiveStoked

New Member
I just recently purchased a 1975 CL360. My plan on the motor is to potentially bore it over, unless warned not to. I don't have much experience with engine rebuilds other than high school classes. For starters....

...is there a bolt sequence on the head when removing it?
What are my options for bore size on this bike?
What do I need to look for as I get into this motor?

My uncle runs a machine shop, A BIG machine shop, so I have that going for me at least.
 
I just finished a rebuild of the same motor a few months back. One thing to look out for on these bikes is whether or not the cam chain tensioner has been updated since the recall. The original design had a flaw where the end of the tensioner would break off into the crank case. If the engine has already been serviced, there should be two punch marks in the serial number on the engine casing, however, mine is also a '75 and it didn't have the marks even though it had the correct one.



Basically If yours looks like the bottom one, you need to find the updated tensioner.

Remove the two outer cylinder head bolts first, then untighten the retaining nuts in a star pattern starting with the 4 outer most nuts first.

My advice as far as boring the cylinders is to see if they are within spec and just need to be lightly honed. You can get pistons that are .25, .50, .75 and 1mm over. My manual says the wear limit is 67.1mm before the jugs need replacing.
 
Also, I highly recommend getting a heavy duty parallel side cam chain from bore tech so it doesn't eat up your tensioner as badly.

And of course, an oil seal kit, valve stem seals and a gasket set.
 
Oskimo said:
Also, I highly recommend getting a heavy duty parallel side cam chain from bore tech so it doesn't eat up your tensioner as badly.

And of course, an oil seal kit, valve stem seals and a gasket set.
Click to expand...

Are you sure you're not confusing the 350 and the 360? I wasn't aware that Bore Tech made 360 parts...
 
Oskimo said:
I just finished a rebuild of the same motor a few months back. One thing to look out for on these bikes is whether or not the cam chain tensioner has been updated since the recall. The original design had a flaw where the end of the tensioner would break off into the crank case. If the engine has already been serviced, there should be two punch marks in the serial number on the engine casing, however, mine is also a '75 and it didn't have the marks even though it had the correct one.



Basically If yours looks like the bottom one, you need to find the updated tensioner.

Remove the two outer cylinder head bolts first, then untighten the retaining nuts in a star pattern starting with the 4 outer most nuts first.

My advice as far as boring the cylinders is to see if they are within spec and just need to be lightly honed. You can get pistons that are .25, .50, .75 and 1mm over. My manual says the wear limit is 67.1mm before the jugs need replacing.
Click to expand...

so the updated tensioner is thicker AND has reversed "eye" ??
 
You're right Sonreir it is for the 350, but you have to shorten it 2 links or so and it'll work for the 360. I bought a tsubaki chain on Ebay for my 360 but i'm pretty sure it's the same as the one they sell at bore-tech. I got my clutch springs from bore tech and they work for the 360 as well. Might wanna double check first though.

Yes, the updated tensioner has the reversed eye which is what's important. Not sure about the thickness but it certainly looks that way in the picture.
 
I have two motors that are marked with the punches. One is cracked between the cylinders. Haven't broke it down yet to see if the tensioners were actually updated or not. The other I have broken down and the tensioners looked to be in good shaped, but I didn't know there was a difference in the eye, so I will have to check that out tonight. are both reversed, or just one?
 
Both eyes are reversed. The old style eye would catch on the cam chain and stop the engine from turning, occasionally worse.
 
Tore the engine down today! Woo! The tensioner is updated, and ready to go! The motor was seized, which made me a little scared. I put the piston with a rubber mallet and block of wood ONCE and it unlocked. The whole motor on the inside is freaking clean and great. So now the plan is to get the engine back together but with better parts. My plan was for wiseco pistons and mikuni carbs, but what other parts am I going to need to go with those? Unless people have other recommendations of a route I should go with this engine. I'm going to dress it up a bit as well.

What recommendations do you have for parts to go in while assembling, so I know what to order!
 
Also, can you see the little scuff on the cam? Is that an issue? Do I nee to order a different cam? Maybe a BIGGER cam?? ;D
 

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LiveStoked said:
Also, can you see the little scuff on the cam? Is that an issue? Do I nee to order a different cam? Maybe a BIGGER cam?? ;D
Click to expand...

I don't think there's much out there for bigger cams.... Last I'd read there was such a small difference made by what IS out there, it wasn't worth it. It's all top end gain, while losing bottom.
 
timberwolffxdl said:
I don't think there's much out there for bigger cams.... Last I'd read there was such a small difference made by what IS out there, it wasn't worth it. It's all top end gain, while losing bottom.
Click to expand...

Ahhh damn. Oh well. Do you think the cam is an issue with that little scuff on it? I saw some people drilling out their cams and I might do the same while I have it out if people recommend it.
 
Your looking at spalling. It's not too bad right now, but if it gets a lot worse, then bad things can happen. More importantly, what do your tappets look like?
 
deviant said:
More importantly, what do your tappets look like?
Click to expand...

Tappets actually look great. I'll post a picture. It was just the cam. It's the only internal part I can see that has some sort of mark on it.

xb33bsa said:
those aren't little scuffs :'( get a better one and as near new rockers as you can find
Click to expand...

I'll start looking for some new rockers and cam shaft then. Is there any aftermarket cam or so I just need to go stock?
 
Do I need to replace these valves? I didn't remove them yet today but here are some pictures to show how bad they look. It just looks like some surface buildup.
 

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LiveStoked said:
Tappets actually look great. I'll post a picture. It was just the cam. It's the only internal part I can see that has some sort of mark on it.

I'll start looking for some new rockers and cam shaft then. Is there any aftermarket cam or so I just need to go stock?
Click to expand...
I just opened a motor last night. I have the parts you need
 
You can bore max 2mm oversize.
Suzuki GS850 pistons are a direct fit, load of people have done it in the last 5~6yrs (after I did the first one the rest were easy ;D )
Biggest problem is finding the pistons, Suzuki discontinued them a probably 15 years ago and just used up the stock. They haven't been available for around 4yrs
 
crazypj said:
You can bore max 2mm oversize.
Suzuki GS850 pistons are a direct fit, load of people have done it in the last 5~6yrs (after I did the first one the rest were easy ;D )
Biggest problem is finding the pistons, Suzuki discontinued them a probably 15 years ago and just used up the stock. They haven't been available for around 4yrs
Click to expand...
I got lucky. Bought a pair from a guy here on DTT. One of them turned out to be egg shaped. Got on eBay and found a NOS piston for $25. Also found a set of NOS rings. :D
 
crazypj said:
You can bore max 2mm oversize.
Suzuki GS850 pistons are a direct fit, load of people have done it in the last 5~6yrs (after I did the first one the rest were easy ;D )
Biggest problem is finding the pistons, Suzuki discontinued them a probably 15 years ago and just used up the stock. They haven't been available for around 4yrs
Click to expand...

I decided to stick with standard bore (I'm going to give this bike to my girlfriend for her birthday) so now I am looking for the standard, 67.0 piston? Do I have any reason to get Wiseco or should I just stick with the pistons that are in it? The pistons are in beautiful condition. I was considering getting Mikuni carbs for the bike, but really is there any reason to get them if I am sticking with stock pistons?

My plan was to run pods/velocity stacks and build my own exhaust, so if this bike is anything like my 750 was, I should probably re-jet as well if I decide to stick with stock carbs correct?
 
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