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How do you plan on squeezing the replacement (Hyabusa) motor in there?
And Y E S to big seventies flake. Hope those sideburns are coming along and that you have suitable bell bottoms, tie-die shirt and platform shoes to complete the ensemble.
One important thing I have to address on this scoot is the solid axle rear end. There is no differential, so making a turn will cause it to plow straight ahead. In a buggy, where this rear end came from, there is 4 wheel suspension and the rider weight is virtually over the front wheels. They rely on a lack of grip on the rear inboard wheel to compensate for the lack of differential, plus weight pushing into the front end. With this trike, the rider weight is pretty much center and even back towards the rear wheels. Where a shifter kart relies on frame flex and the inboard wheel lifting to make the turn, this frame has no flex. I really don't want to fork out for a differential. Having power to both rear wheels would be good, but I don't think it's totally necessary on this trike. Maybe it gets upgraded later after I spend some time on it. Maybe I get another splined hub and make it a drag racer, since it would only go straight ahead. Until then, so begins the task of fixing the plow.
First I decided to pull the rear left wheel, since the brake is all the way right and the sprocket is right of center. I bored the splines out of the hub and for now machined a sleeve to go over axle splines. By Monday, I'll be delivered 32mm of needle bearing to run inside the hub to replace the sleeve.
Repairs on the body have begun. I'm using a non-blushing epoxy resin with System 3 fused silica to thicken it up. Instead of mounting the body on the four connection points as stock, I've formed a metal base out of 1/8" steel plate. The body will mount to this base with 6 - 8 screws and rubber sandwiched in-between...
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