CB360 - Monoshock Brat
- Thread starter compoundcycles
- Start date
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
I cannot think of a time adjustment in the monoshock setup would be preferred. Get it right from the beginning. Don't play around with the bike geometry much, make sure you're spring rates, rising rates are good. Then weld it all solid.
I would think that whilst the setup is safe, any adjustability would also bring flex.
I would think that whilst the setup is safe, any adjustability would also bring flex.
compoundcycles
Been Around the Block
More ideas...XR500
VonYinzer
Over 10,000 Posts
That 500 is all kinds of badass. Its also a monoshock from the factory, and a COMPLETELY different frame design. That said, you may be able to get close to the look with a 360, but you better put your thinking cap on. The amount of travel in that bikes suspension, both front and rear, is close to doible the 360 or any sportbike you may steal a shock from.
compoundcycles
Been Around the Block
Does anyone have more info about this from personal experience? I've read that people get an improved ride after swapping in bronze bushings. Why is this...is the metal just softer?
It's better because it's harder and so it wears a lot better than plastic and lasts longer; usually the life of the bike. Bronze is also "slippery" for a metal and quite porous, allowing it to hold on to grease and oil (even more so if the bronze is sintered). Good attributes bushings to have.
compoundcycles
Been Around the Block
Time for an update. Been busy polishing parts, cleaning the motor, and planning an attack on the swing arm bracing.
Here's the shock from the RD350LC off ebay. I'm trying to raise the back end slightly to give the bike a more perched look. Just blocking it in until I'm ready to mount the shock.
Here's the shock from the RD350LC off ebay. I'm trying to raise the back end slightly to give the bike a more perched look. Just blocking it in until I'm ready to mount the shock.
Attachments
compoundcycles
Been Around the Block
Polished parts. Cleaning motor. I found the chain and sprocket for the starter inside the stator cover. The sprocket seems chewed up so I'll be replacing that.
After a horribly failed attempt with a pipe bender from Harbor Freight I quickly box it up for return.
This piece of shit. --------> http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
There's one custom motorcycle shop near me but they're Harley Only, I thought it couldn't hurt to ask if they could bend some pipe for me. They were happy to help and it turned out pretty good. I have a swingarm brace that matches the footprint of the swingarm and a seat hoop. The seat hoop is a little more round than the squarish piece i've been looking at for the last few weeks, but It'll do just fine.
I'm temped to make the seat on this bike super stubby...what do you guys think?
Next up: getting a 12mm metric drill bit and boring out the racecar tabs I bought for the shock mounts.
After a horribly failed attempt with a pipe bender from Harbor Freight I quickly box it up for return.
This piece of shit. --------> http://www.harborfreight.com/12-ton-hydraulic-pipe-bender-32888.html
There's one custom motorcycle shop near me but they're Harley Only, I thought it couldn't hurt to ask if they could bend some pipe for me. They were happy to help and it turned out pretty good. I have a swingarm brace that matches the footprint of the swingarm and a seat hoop. The seat hoop is a little more round than the squarish piece i've been looking at for the last few weeks, but It'll do just fine.
I'm temped to make the seat on this bike super stubby...what do you guys think?
Next up: getting a 12mm metric drill bit and boring out the racecar tabs I bought for the shock mounts.
Attachments
deepwaterimports
Over 1,000 Posts
nice project all the insperation on the pages has been great cant wait to see what you do with it.
neevo
Over 1,000 Posts
You might find that dropping the swingarm that much gets the chain rubbing on the swingarm.
I am going for the same look but cut the rear frame supports and instead of dropping the swingarm, lifted the subframe.
Keeps the same geometry with the same look. You might get away with it though. Measure it all up first though before you weld it al together.
Share you're progress.
I am going for the same look but cut the rear frame supports and instead of dropping the swingarm, lifted the subframe.
Keeps the same geometry with the same look. You might get away with it though. Measure it all up first though before you weld it al together.
Share you're progress.
compoundcycles
Been Around the Block
Yes, thank you all for the reality check.
I need to test fit the motor and chain in before I commit to a swing arm position. I measured both separately and the numbers seemed to work out with a 1/2 inch to spare. I'd rather the stance of the bike come from the swingarm position than cutting and raising the subframe, and I'd rather not run a tensioner over the swingarm. So, if all else fails, I'll lower the bike back into a more stock position if I can.
Autotek, I think maybe the tubing I was using was too thin of a gague. It kinked really bad, got jammed in the die, bent to where it clipped off the oil plug from the back of the hydraulic cylinder and leaked oil all over the place. Needless to say my patience with the apparatus was nil after that experience. I'm sure in better hands it give better results. In the end I'm happier knowing I have those structural parts bent by a professional.
Here's a picture of the shock mount tabs bored out to 12mm. I used a 15/32 cobalt bit, which equates to about 11.9mm...so with a little wiggling my shock bolt now have a nice snug fit. You can see the old size on the far right.
I need to test fit the motor and chain in before I commit to a swing arm position. I measured both separately and the numbers seemed to work out with a 1/2 inch to spare. I'd rather the stance of the bike come from the swingarm position than cutting and raising the subframe, and I'd rather not run a tensioner over the swingarm. So, if all else fails, I'll lower the bike back into a more stock position if I can.
Autotek, I think maybe the tubing I was using was too thin of a gague. It kinked really bad, got jammed in the die, bent to where it clipped off the oil plug from the back of the hydraulic cylinder and leaked oil all over the place. Needless to say my patience with the apparatus was nil after that experience. I'm sure in better hands it give better results. In the end I'm happier knowing I have those structural parts bent by a professional.
Here's a picture of the shock mount tabs bored out to 12mm. I used a 15/32 cobalt bit, which equates to about 11.9mm...so with a little wiggling my shock bolt now have a nice snug fit. You can see the old size on the far right.
Attachments
RustyOlive
Been Around the Block
Interesting build.
Agreed with Neevo. Watch your chain line from rubbing the swingarm. Also. The more raised in the rear. The less trail in the steer tube. Makes your steering little twitchy. But its all to the rider, how they like their bike set up and feel.
Keep going sir. I'll be watching. ;-)
Agreed with Neevo. Watch your chain line from rubbing the swingarm. Also. The more raised in the rear. The less trail in the steer tube. Makes your steering little twitchy. But its all to the rider, how they like their bike set up and feel.
Keep going sir. I'll be watching. ;-)
