Down under, an idiot and a 400F

Staffy said:

If you've got a heat torch to heat up the lower race quickly once you take it out the freezer that'll help too.

Just make sure it's hidden behind the frozen mixed veges in the freezer or SWMBO might have you in the doghouse!

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I have a butane torch, might tickle it with that before I hit it. Cheers.

Oil pump is pretty spendy but still cheaper than a new engine (if you can find one)
Quite surprised they are available at any price
I would look for a set of rods as well, used should be fine as your not building a race motor (Carrillo, APE, or Falicon would be nice but real expensive, if you can find them)

What's the issue with the rods PJ?

I just remembered where the copper shavings came from. I used some copper plumbing pipe to lock the rods when I took the engine apart! Thankfully it's not from the motor at all

Was your reco for new rods because of the copper or something else?

Cool, you know where it's from so that's OK.
The inside is smooth where pins run?
Got pics of georotors from pump showing condition?

Yeah inside is smooth, looks like I dodged a bullet on the rods then and won't have to replace.

Here is the oil pump rotors:











Looks like the bits went on the outside of the rotors as the lobes aren't too bad but the top and bottom faces are scratched really bad.

Oh and I finished my cabinet. Just have to install the gloves

Staffy said:

If you've got a heat torch to heat up the lower race quickly once you take it out the freezer that'll help too.

Just make sure it's hidden behind the frozen mixed veges in the freezer or SWMBO might have you in the doghouse!

Click to expand...

Worked a treat Staffy! Little heat with the torch and it drifted straight off:



Now what's the trick for the races in the head stem?

WOW, don't think I've seen an oil pump that close to self destruction.
Lucky outer rotor didn't crack
Looks like filthy oil was running through it for a while, probably have micro-particles embedded in bearing shells
You can drift races out of frame easier than getting bottom bearing off, just use a long bar from other end

Got stuck into a really dirty job today; cleaning the tank. Had a crack at paint stripper but it didn't want to touch the many layers of paint and bog. On the right hand side there was quite a big dent which I could see from the inside of the tank. Some dodgy hammer action and I managed to push it out along with a healthy chunk of filler.

In the end the only thing that the tank would understand was a grinder with sand disc and a drill with wire wheel. Here is the result:





You can see the dent I hammered out in the pic above. Here is a closer look:





I got the majority of it out but the metal is pretty rippled, what's the best fix? Bog it up or try some of that lead style filler? Which is the most long term and proper fix?

Thought I would test fit the knee cutouts too, loving the way this is going:







Still need to trim the rear of the knee cutouts sections as they hang a bit low and foul the frame. Once it's welded up I will cut it back then.

crazypj said:

WOW, don't think I've seen an oil pump that close to self destruction.
Lucky outer rotor didn't crack
Looks like filthy oil was running through it for a while, probably have micro-particles embedded in bearing shells
You can drift races out of frame easier than getting bottom bearing off, just use a long bar from other end

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Any idea what oil pumps are common between bikes? There a quite a few on eBay but not for the 400. I assume the 350f is the same? Also what year 750's should I be looking at for the TTR400 oil pump mod?

Had a crack at hitting the races out the other day, didn't budge at all. Might get some heat on the head stem and see what happens after that.

neevo said:

Worked a treat Staffy! Little heat with the torch and it drifted straight off:
Now what's the trick for the races in the head stem?

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Glad to hear it. If you're talking about the bearing races inside the downtube the steering pivot goes into then that's a destrocto job. You need to get the biggest, dirtiest most bastard flathead screwdriver and hammer you have and drive the suckers out from inside. So you smack the top one out from underneath and the bottom one from on top.

I remember the SR500 was a real pain as there was nowhere to get onto 'em. The trick there is to notch just inside the steering tube so that next time you have somewhere to get some purchase.

I hope we're talking about the same bearing races here by the way....

Yeah they are the ones Staffy. Do the taper bearing kits come with new races? Or are they not required?

All bearing sets should come with new races. It's especially important to replace the races in steering bearings as the only have limited movement and over time then "notch" into the race. When you fit new bearings it's good practice to fit the races too to ensure smooth movement.

As I said before, if you have trouble getting a screwdriver under the race and tapping them out then it's worth notching into the steering tube after you get the races out to make it simpler for the next person who has to do the job.

If you can't get under them you could try a few things. You could carefully chisel into the face of the race until it's fatigued enough that you cn fit a small flathead between the race and the steering tube from on top, enabling you to deform it and pry it out. You could also (very carefully) drill two holes into opposite sides of the face of the race then screw a self tapper into each one. With two pairs of pliers and some inox, wd-40 or something of that sort you may be able to get them out by pulling.

Whatever you do, try not to gouge or wear away any of the mating surfaces that the bearing race sits in. It's not overly important in this scenario, but still it's good practice to be careful

Excellent, thanks Staffy. Got an All Balls one saved on eBay and can definitely see the races.

Will get creative with some heat, cold and hammering.

Eugh, shouldn't have bothered with the races tonight. Top one came out in 4 hits, bottom one is well and truly stuck in there.

Hit hand 3 times with hammer and it's still not out. Something must be catching because the rear side keeps hanging on something.

Will get some compressed air to spray the race with to try and freeze it and then give the head stem some heat.

Failing that will be looking for a very small grinder disc

Yeah, the bottom ones are a pain. Can't get enough purchase on the rim of the race to really belt it. I've tried all sorts od bent screwdrivers and punches, but a dremmel always works

cheers
ian

Dremel it's going to be I suspect.

You need to beat it front/back and 'walk' it out
They are always a pain to remove, taper races are much worse as they have even less of a lip

crazypj said:

taper races are much worse as they have even less of a lip

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hence the notching in the frame
Don't forget to do it neemo

crazypj said:

You need to beat it front/back and 'walk' it out

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Did that but I suspect there is an issue as one side is not moving. There is a curl of metal (razor sharp too) leading that edge which makes me think it's caught up.

Will get a tiny grinder disc for my air tool and carefully cut it out. At least the new ones can be put in the freezer. What do people drive them in with or will they seat themselves if cold enough?

Cold ones should go in easy but I've always (carefully) used a socket that fits just inside the internal diamter of the steering tube. That way it sits neatly on the top of the race without damaging the face of it.