1976 Honda XL175
- Thread starter catsy
- Start date
I wouldn't call it a lemon, but it is slow. :-\ Good enough for scooting around town and dirt roads, but zero torque to stay in the grooves on single track.
Tune-A-Fish said:
haha shit tuna if your right its breaking news to xl175 owners everywhere
xb33bsa said:
Yeah, XB but it was dirt cheap and i dont mind work, i wanted a small 4 stroke single to get my head around the engine anyway! im thinking when im done ill mod my daily rider the XR400
I can't see that brake shaft working for the kick starter. The radius is right, but the splines don't seem to line up. Plus, there is less than half the length from the
groove for the set screw to the end of the shaft. Your kick starter lever will barely be hanging on.
groove for the set screw to the end of the shaft. Your kick starter lever will barely be hanging on.
Tune-A-Fish
BOTM LOSER Proudly Deplorable
deviant said:
Was worth checking out... never know what works till you try /
I did. That's what Im'a saying.Tune-A-Fish said:
Plus, I don't think the issue with breakage on these is the design of the shaft. It's the design of the lever. It's already hanging way out there. The way they tighten, the fulcrum is already out to the end of the shaft. Using the brake shaft will put the fulcrum beyond the tip of the shaft several mil.
The stock one...
I just make sure it stays tight to the case and hope for the best.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I just make sure it stays tight to the case and hope for the best.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
On holidays now hoping to get it all back together and keep it together (mostly) from then on.
engines good to go back in - will come out down the line to tackle the kickstarter.
painting all good - followed Rattle Can Bling thread. SLS self etch primer, epoxy black, clear coat. 48hrs between each
engines good to go back in - will come out down the line to tackle the kickstarter.
painting all good - followed Rattle Can Bling thread. SLS self etch primer, epoxy black, clear coat. 48hrs between each
Having already draining what old oil would come out i put in 1ltr of cheap clean 10w 40
to give heating it ago, i set up a small ceramic heating below the engine and boxing it in with tin foil,
every now and then i would kick it over a few times with the spark plug out to mix it up.
1-2 hours and the engine was warm to touch all over. and i dropped the oil, which came out warm which was promising.
the oil i had put in was unused and clear and when i dropped it it looked like this!
so definatley helped in getting some bits i missed.
Oil screen was completly free of sludge or metal shavings.
to give heating it ago, i set up a small ceramic heating below the engine and boxing it in with tin foil,
every now and then i would kick it over a few times with the spark plug out to mix it up.
1-2 hours and the engine was warm to touch all over. and i dropped the oil, which came out warm which was promising.
the oil i had put in was unused and clear and when i dropped it it looked like this!
so definatley helped in getting some bits i missed.
Oil screen was completly free of sludge or metal shavings.
started it today, idled and reved with a little bog, but still happy with an idle for now.
how do you check that the oil pump is getting to the head?
i remember reading on one thread about opening the tappet covers while its running
but will it pump oil obviously or is it more subtle?
how do you check that the oil pump is getting to the head?
i remember reading on one thread about opening the tappet covers while its running
but will it pump oil obviously or is it more subtle?
It'll just splash out a bit. Sorta like shaking around a salt shaker.
