Powder Coating with Wheel Bushings?

1sttimer

1sttimer

Over 1,000 Posts
All that's holding me back from powder coating everything is the dang wheel bushings in the rear hub. I have no idea how to get them out. Can I leave them in and give them to the powder coater as-is?

Thanks!
 
I'm not talking about the bearings, I'm talking about the 4 bushings located on the rear hub only.
 
I have no idea what you are talking about. It would help to know what bike you are talking about, and maybe a picture of what you are talking about so that we don't have to guess to give you help.
 
Yes you can powder with them in. I've done it at 400° with no issues. That was on a cb360.
 
It's a 1973 CB175. I'm talking about the four bushings on the rear hub that the sprocket guard hooks into.

See attached. It's #3 on the diagram.
 

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1sttimer said:
It's a 1973 CB175. I'm talking about the four bushings on the rear hub that the sprocket guard hooks into.

See attached. It's #3 on the diagram.
Click to expand...

Those are the drive bushings for the sprocket. They are rubber and will get damaged with the heat. Get new ones (Still available at the Dealer, BTW).

Remove them now so you don;t scratch the powder coat removing them later. They are painful to remove...

If you have an old sprocket drive pin, some people have filled the opening of the bushing with grease, put the pin in the hole and smacked it smartly with a hammer. The hydraulic force may push them out....
 
OK, now I see what you are talking about. The sprocket dampers.
My tendency would be to remove them, but not mandatory.
 
mydlyfkryzis said:
If you have an old sprocket drive pin, some people have filled the opening of the bushing with grease, put the pin in the hole and smacked it smartly with a hammer. The hydraulic force may push them out....
Click to expand...

Cool technique. I would tend to use a large screw extractor and try to twist them out, or thread a lag screw into them and use a slide hammer.
 
It's only 45 bucks to PC the hub so I'm thinking about leaving about leaving them in. I was just worried about ruining the hub...two different materials. I imagine the sheath around the bushing is carbon steel and the hub is aluminum...different thermal expansion factors and whatnot when baked.
 
1sttimer said:
It's only 45 bucks to PC the hub so I'm thinking about leaving about leaving them in. I was just worried about ruining the hub...two different materials. I imagine the sheath around the bushing is carbon steel and the hub is aluminum...different thermal expansion factors and whatnot when baked.
Click to expand...

That's why heating the hub with a torch makes them easier to remove.
Personally, I would not leave then in for powdercoating, because future replacement would be that much more difficult.
 
AlphaDogChoppers said:
Cool technique. I would tend to use a large screw extractor and try to twist them out, or thread a lag screw into them and use a slide hammer.
Click to expand...

That works too, but a little slow as the rubber absorbs some of the force....

Funny, I always had an issue with them coming out with the drive pin, not sticking in the hub...
 
I don't know if it will work or not but you could try putting the hub in a propane grill, bushings down but set the hub up so they have a place to fall, start with low heat and they should just fall out. The hub should expand faster than the bushings.
 
I have had some good and bad powder coating experiences. My coater will tell you to go home and pull those out or they will charge you to do so before prep & powder. If you leave them in, there might be grease, oils, grime that oozes out during the baking of the powder.

Use a blind hole bushing/ bearing puller and just pop them out. If you don't have one, they are inexpensive and serve many purposes (anything where you can not go in from behind to drift it out )... every tool kit should have a set.
 
Because everyone knows when rubber is heated to 400 degrees, it doesn't change the rubbers characteristics.

Those are your cush drives. Those are the things that make your back wheel not go 'clunk' when you accelerate, that reduce the beating your chain takes, etc. Remove them, mark them for tape-off, replace with new ones. Getting them out will be 10x harder if they are baked in with powdercoat.

You're not powdercoating the whole wheel assembled, are you?
 
No no no I have the entire thing apart, bearings and all. I guess I have just read that it's a bad idea and others say it won't matter. I was just looking for some more input. I'm also thinking of avoiding the whole problem and just polish them.
 
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