FRANKENHONDA II the 1982 DOHC CB 750F2 Build

brad black said:
dunno about the plastic bit, but what if you paint the not rubbed areas of the disc black. might not look so monsterous then.

It is huge (that’s what she said anyway) I was thinking of getting the disc drilled out.

Perhaps painting it might help I actually ended up ordering 2 discs in total and got 1 that looked better but was suited to a different hub.


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cb250nproject said:
What do you think it would cost to drill out ?

If you've got a drill press it will only cost whatever a good quality drill bit costs.

Otherwise you are at the mercy of whoever is doing the work.

This is probably worth a read: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=56362.0
 
stroker crazy said:
If you've got a drill press it will only cost whatever a good quality drill bit costs.

Otherwise you are at the mercy of whoever is doing the work.

This is probably worth a read: http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=56362.0

We have access to a mill, I’m just wondering how to ensure the pattern is equal on the disc. I imagine if it was out it would unbalance the disc and create a shudder at speed ?


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cb250nproject said:
We have access to a mill, I’m just wondering how to ensure the pattern is equal on the disc. I imagine if it was out it would unbalance the disc and create a shudder at speed ?

A mill would be the business.

It would take some pretty major irregularity to cause any problem!
 
Pete12 said:
Easy to do on a mill. What sort of pattern are you thinking of?

For the sake of continuity I guess the same as the front disc



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Just out of curiosity, did you drill the front or is that stock for that rotor? I don't see any chamfering on the holes for the front disk. Just wondering if that was intentional or not. Unless I just can't see it in the pic.
 
hooligan998 said:
Just out of curiosity, did you drill the front or is that stock for that rotor? I don't see any chamfering on the holes for the front disk. Just wondering if that was intentional or not. Unless I just can't see it in the pic.

That’s how it came out of the box, there is no chamfering. My R1 discs are the same


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Depends. Chamfering provides better cooling, while the hard edge gives you better bite. Any hard edge becomes a hot spot. Even the points on a chamfer create hot spots, but they are spread. The optimal cooling edge is more like a rounded fillet- a sinusoidal edge.

sp_drilling_method.jpg


I don't think motorcycles or street cars have nearly the cooling needs, so probably makes the most sense to go chamfer free.
 
Dropped the barrels, rocker cover, starter motor cover and the chain guard cover off at the hydro blasters

Dads finished measuring up the original top triple clamp. Now will come the next adventure, fabricating the top triple.




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So some updates from old man Murphy’s shed

The main holes have been done, still the slot for the idiot lights. Then it will come down to the shaping.

The temperature is tipped to be 43 c, so I think we may have to standby for fear of dad being barbecued in the shed.




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Useful bugger that old man Murphy...

43 degrees? Damn, I was enjoying this thread up to that point. Now I hate you and your *&^% bike.

;)
 
That's 43 Centigrade or around 112F and in his shed it's probably over 120 degrees. Way TF too hot.
 
I know, and I'd take it in a heartbeat. Minus god-knows-what here and cold as a witch's tit. My mate says he likes this weather - he can go for a walk in the park with an ice cream cone, have a couple of licks, put it down on the bench and come back to it after a couple of minutes, no drama. Glass half full that guy.
 
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