XS750 to XS896 big bore

OK, my mate (TIG welder) has confirmed that I fucked up my headers. :-[ I had everything that I needed but my execution was crap. :'( There was a much easier way to get a better result. So to share with everyone else on how it should be done he came up with the attached explanation. Not too much damage just $60 of mandrel bends :).
Since I put on the old XS750E tank, silver with the red patch, it has grown on me. When I studied how the tank was detailed, it is actually made up from a "Crystal Silver" base coat and then the patches are vinyl transfers and some 2 tone vinyl pin striping. So I guess that is probably a good option.
The "Crystal Silver" base coat is easy enough. To get the shape of the vinyl is a different matter. The process we settled on was to put a very light coat of spray adhesive on the tank and then use a light weight none woven fabric (we call it scrim) and lightly spray it with adhesive. We then draped it over the side of the tank, being careful not to trap wrinkle. The scrim is translucent, so it is a simple matter of tracing around the vinyl patch. The scrim is carefully pealed off, ensuring the scrim is not stretched. the scrim then glued to a cardboard backer. The vinyl profile can then be digitised and the CAD system smooths out any wobbles from the hand tracing. In the end I have a dxf file that I can take to get the vinyl patch. Very handy to have all the tools available at work to use out of work hours. I am guessing that I will not get the red colour spot on but hopefully close. Vinyl pin striping is readily available, and I need white and a deeper red.
From my lesson learnt above does anyone have a more simple method to get the same result?
 

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Yes, i looked at your headers now, way too many pie cuts.. each cut will pull in some direction, and only way to get them where you want them is to cut it all apart and weld one at a time, and it wont look very good done like that. Plus its going to be very expensive with all the backing gas. Use as few cuts as posible on the headers, if you want them more than 90 degrees bent, use a 90 degree bend and cut off how many degrees you want from another bend. Plus its kinda tricky to do all those welds and not have any bulges on the inside blocking flow. I can, but it costs 50€/hr
 
Tim,

Why dont you order the OEM decal for the tank and clear coat it?
I have a dealer in Germany who probably has this decal.
Will you paint the crystal silver on your own?

Gesendet von meinem SM-A310F mit Tapatalk
 
Hi Ryan
If your dealer does have a complete set, there will be 5 separate decals per side = total of 10 to complete the tank! The other issue could be the adhesive after 40 years? For the colour to be correct they are from the "E" model.

Your question for the Walrus - the front casing bolts are M8 X 45mm. Pulled one out this afternoon and checked, refer photo!

Dave - yes totally agree now that it was a fuckup. With my mates process, that he did on his XS400, it can be done with 2 welds not 7!!! We live and learn.
 

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XS750AU said:
Hi Ryan
If your dealer does have a complete set, there will be 5 separate decals per side = total of 10 to complete the tank! The other issue could be the adhesive after 40 years? For the colour to be correct they are from the "E" model.

Your question for the Walrus - the front casing bolts are M8 X 45mm. Pulled one out this afternoon and checked, refer photo!

Dave - yes totally agree now that it was a fuckup. With my mates process, that he did on his XS400, it can be done with 2 welds not 7!!! We live and learn.

Thank you Tim for the screw measurements!

I ordered a few years back a complete set for my RD project and the decals were as new (i think they are reproduced ones but really high quality).I just sent him an email,will get back to you when I know if he has the decal set.

Arent there people on the forum that can print decals (i think sonreir)....?this could be a possibility too?

I already painted a bike silver metallic....its a b**** to paint...
 
I already painted a bike silver metallic....its a b**** to paint...
I want to give it a go my self and the fall back is another mate who is a spray painter.
Thanks for checking out the decals
 
Foot pegs arrived, with a bit of rust. Photo shows as it arrived and then after soaking in diesel for 30 minutes followed by a wire brush by hand. Much better :D
Shocks arrived this week. They had 12mm bushes top and bottom, so I had to pull the top and bore them out on the lathe to 14mm so they would fit the XS frame.
Fitted the seat just to see how it all is coming together.
Tomorrow I hope to modify some clip on bar mounts to become the headlight mounts.
 

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Damn man, you've out done herself. That is looking tidy af. I know I've already said it, but I love the stance. Nailed 'the line' and the seat is unique and understated at the same time. Mint.
 
Not that much time in the shed today. :-\
Started on the new headlight mounts, which are based on a spare set of clipons. After setting the shoulder back on the lathe. The arms are machined out of 10mm ally using the mill and rotary table. Couple of hours before they are finished.
 

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Weekend riding the Husaberg FE550, love that bike. Apart from the prop stand. It is Chrome moly and has broken up at the pivot, where the chrome moly tube is welded to mild steel solid that forms the pivot. I have welded it a couple of times with the arc welder, but it keeps on failing in the heat affected zone on the chrome moly. I am sure there is someone who can tell me what I am doing wrong???? :-\
Also pulled out some antique oxy acetylene regulators to see if I can get the Dillion torch working. I know the torch works as I have tried it on a modern set of regulators. These were lying around so I thought they were worth trying before investing in new regulators.
 

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Probably: using the wrong filler material/welding too hot/no backing gas/wrong type of shielding gas. Or no post-heat treatment normalization of haz-zone.
 
no post-heat treatment normalization of haz-zone.

What are your suggestions on the post welding normalisation. Does it need a bit of warming with the oxy, before and after welding with the arc?
 
If you are welding mild steel onto chrome moly, i think a correct alloy filler is more important, but yes, preheat to annealing temps, weld, and post heat at annealing temps. Should not really be necessary with somewhat modern chromoly alloys and thin wall tube, but since its cracking you need to do something else. The arc welder probably isnt the best choice either. Which rods do you use?
 
Thanks Dave
I have used standard mild steel rods. I then had a mate MIG weld it with the same result.
Guess I should use some low hydrogen rods? With pre and post heat treatment? ???
 
You might have better luck with high cromium content tig/mig filler. ER80 seems to be available worldwide, and just to make sure, do you know what shielding gas was used? Pure argon would be best, no argon/co2/h2 mixes, although i think ArH2 would actually work.
 
Came up with a choke mechanism today for the Triumph Mikuni BST36SS carbies - happy with the result.
Where the cable usually feeds into the carbies, I made up a couple of polypropylene bushes out of home irrigation tube. The shaft is 4mm steel rod with a M4 thread cut on each end. I then made up a friction leaf spring to hold the choke open and closed. At this point it is just creating friction. If needed I can cut a small grove in the shaft and centre punch a detent in the leaf to give a more positive positions.
All mods are reversible, if in the future I do want to use a cable.
New slide guides are on the way for the carbie clean & rebuild.
 

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Finished the headlight mounts - they are bloody solid.
The only problem is that I now need to start to sort out the electricals - my least favorite subject. I found the problem with my charging system. Both wires were broken and the only thing holding the wires together was the fabric wrap. All fixed now.
 

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Talking electricals - has anyone have some experience of these batteries?? They look a very good option to hide.
 

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