BMW R90/6 Cafe

advCo said:
Nice work on the fender. Did you smooth the bead on a bead roller or e-wheel after hammering it?

Thank you.

The bead is all hand formed and planished with hammer/slapper and dolly. I don’t really have a bead roller, and it’s too narrow to fit in my wheel or planishing hammer.
 
Oh what a beautiful bike. Your metal working skills are impressive to say the least.

On the mono conversion? What did you decide to do, if anything, to address the increased stresses on the SA pivot point? Im considering converting mine(cb750) when I start to build it, and I'm interested in hearing if i should be worried about this or not. Tons of people have mono'd that bike, but that doesn't make it right ya know! lol

Again beautiful bike! Jealously is real!
 
Kunphushun said:
Oh what a beautiful bike. Your metal working skills are impressive to say the least.

On the mono conversion? What did you decide to do, if anything, to address the increased stresses on the SA pivot point? Im considering converting mine(cb750) when I start to build it, and I'm interested in hearing if i should be worried about this or not. Tons of people have mono'd that bike, but that doesn't make it right ya know! lol

Again beautiful bike! Jealously is real!

Thank you!

I am going to be adding some additional bracing once everything is mocked up and I can check clearances. I’ll post up pictures when it’s done.
 
Kunphushun said:
Oh what a beautiful bike. Your metal working skills are impressive to say the least.

On the mono conversion? What did you decide to do, if anything, to address the increased stresses on the SA pivot point? Im considering converting mine(cb750) when I start to build it, and I'm interested in hearing if i should be worried about this or not. Tons of people have mono'd that bike, but that doesn't make it right ya know! lol

Again beautiful bike! Jealously is real!

Check out J-Rod's gorgeous example; http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=44355.250
 
The fender mounted in place.
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I also rolled it outside for the first time in a while.
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I started working on the new engine cover to replace the original airbox. Once it’s finished I’ll bead blast it at low pressure to give it some texture to match the engine.

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Love the bike man, the nekkid metal looks too good to paint. Don’t write off the clear coat yet! I cleared my brushed steel tank with a 2K clear from Spraymax. Twice, truth be told. First time with satin, which flattened the brushed effect, so stripped it and used gloss the next time. Really brings out the brushed metal finIsh and in no way ruins anything. Just warm everything up before clearcoating to drive out as much moisture in the metal as possible.

Dude this bike looks amazing

Only thing that sticks out (to me) is the seat hump. It’s a bit bulbous to my eye. But that’s just me.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON
 
I love this bike. looking forward to seeing it in paint and with a finished seat. Are going a with skinny or a padded seat?
 
The Jimbonaut said:
Love the bike man, the nekkid metal looks too good to paint. Don’t write off the clear coat yet! I cleared my brushed steel tank with a 2K clear from Spraymax. Twice, truth be told. First time with satin, which flattened the brushed effect, so stripped it and used gloss the next time. Really brings out the brushed metal finIsh and in no way ruins anything. Just warm everything up before clearcoating to drive out as much moisture in the metal as possible.

Dude this bike looks amazing

Only thing that sticks out (to me) is the seat hump. It’s a bit bulbous to my eye. But that’s just me.


Sent from my iPhone using DO THE TON

Thanks man. The seat hump is tricky. In photos I see what you guys mean, but in person I think it fits nicely. I think the finish makes it difficult for the camera to show its true shape and ends up making it look much rounder than it is.

As far as paint vs. polish/clear coat, it’s not that simple. When you make your own tins the final finish is a decision you have to make early on, and it dictates the way you move forward. Changing plans at this point is a big deal. A lot of people bring this up so I’ll post a separate reply in a few minutes further explaining this for anyone whose interested.
 
CrabsAndCylinders said:
I'm looking forward to seeing that piece after it has been blasted.

Me too! Haha I’ve done it before, and you can usually get the texture close enough as to not stick out. I’m hoping to get there today, but this piece in general is a real pain in the ass. It’s going to distort during final welding and I’ll have to massage it back into shape. Keeping the gaps tight is going to suck because the flange will make it difficult to manipulate...
 
Popeye SXM said:
I love this bike. looking forward to seeing it in paint and with a finished seat. Are going a with skinny or a padded seat?

Thanks! This bike is going to get ridden so the seat will be padded. Not crazy thick, but not what I would consider a skinny seat. A few inches at least.
 
I finished up the rear engine cover and got some texture on it. I’ll hit it with a buffing wheel, and leave it in place while I clean the rest of the engine. It should blend with the rest of the casings.

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For anyone following along, I said that I would further explain the paint vs. polish decision when making your own tins and why it’s not easy to change at this stage. I began typing a response explaining material selection, shaping methods/approach, the metal finishing process, and how the final finish impacts these decisions. As you can imagine, it started getting loonnggg...

If anyone is really interested in the metal shaping process post up and let me know. I truly don’t mind typing it all up, but if no one is really into it will probably just be boring and you won’t get thru it lol.
 
Yeah Im having a lot of trouble wrapping my head around...

This....
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and then This....
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Seems to me at some point it should've ended up in the recycle pile. ;D

How are you annealing this. It looks thick enough that it would just crack.
 
trek97 said:
How are you annealing this. It looks thick enough that it would just crack.
Only certain aluminums, like 5054 need to be annealed to form. Thickness isn't necessarily an issue. But, an easy way to anneal it is to take an acetylene torch and coat it black, the follow up with O/A and heat it until the soot is burned off. Then it's annealed.
 
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