1974 CB360 Engine Troubles (I think)
- Thread starter rsjudka
- Start date
also I got the regulator and rectifier backwards lol
Wiring for new R/R.
The white in 4 wire connector (located near carbs and battery box) is attached to the yellow. Just cut and tape up white and yellow that runs to front of bike handle bars control switch.
Simply twisting and taping any connections is absolutely unacceptable. They will vibrate loose. Solderless crimped plug connections or soldering them is acceptable.
AND the Light green/Red has a loose pigtail that doesnt hook to anything. Keep it that way. Dont mess w LG/R at all.
The white in 4 wire connector (located near carbs and battery box) is attached to the yellow. Just cut and tape up white and yellow that runs to front of bike handle bars control switch.
Simply twisting and taping any connections is absolutely unacceptable. They will vibrate loose. Solderless crimped plug connections or soldering them is acceptable.
AND the Light green/Red has a loose pigtail that doesnt hook to anything. Keep it that way. Dont mess w LG/R at all.
Its a job that sucks. But to greatly improve reliability.
I go through the bike top to bottom and clean every single connection.
Ensuring the plugs snap together nice and solid. Comparing anything questionable to the wiring diagram.
My 360 was a non-runner. 9yo nephew helped me go through the whole harness w the colors.
It took us 3 hours to get through them all. But we found wires swapped in the ignition circuit by PO.
And she fired right up when we were done.
For cleaning and protecting, this is the good stuff.
I go through the bike top to bottom and clean every single connection.
Ensuring the plugs snap together nice and solid. Comparing anything questionable to the wiring diagram.
My 360 was a non-runner. 9yo nephew helped me go through the whole harness w the colors.
It took us 3 hours to get through them all. But we found wires swapped in the ignition circuit by PO.
And she fired right up when we were done.
For cleaning and protecting, this is the good stuff.
SUCCESS!
I went out for a 20ish mile ride, hit a new top speed of 70 mph, and was able to make it back home without any problems!
Well, the bike would randomly backfire when decelerating and i couldn't push it past 8k rpms, but im assuming that can be fixed with some tuning
You guys have all helped me out so much and I'm so excited to ride without the fear of getting stuck on the side of the road lol
I went out for a 20ish mile ride, hit a new top speed of 70 mph, and was able to make it back home without any problems!
Well, the bike would randomly backfire when decelerating and i couldn't push it past 8k rpms, but im assuming that can be fixed with some tuning
You guys have all helped me out so much and I'm so excited to ride without the fear of getting stuck on the side of the road lol
rsjudka said:Well, the bike would randomly backfire when decelerating and i couldn't push it past 8k rpms, but im assuming that can be fixed with some tuning
GREAT NEWS.
Backfiring during decel is a lean condition, normal for carb'd engines. However, your carbs may be due a thorough cleaning and dial in the A/F mix. Rather than engine braking, try pulling in the clutch and coasting during decel. The backfiring should stop.
Also, have no fear, its a 360. It will strand you sooner or later. Just hopefully you know her well enough to get her going again.
Hahaha Im actually wearing glasses like that right now but no beard, still too much of a baby to grow that lol
But back to the garage! So when the engine is still relatively cold, the bike accelerates really slowly in first gear. After I ride for a bit acceleration is normal.
What should I look into?
But back to the garage! So when the engine is still relatively cold, the bike accelerates really slowly in first gear. After I ride for a bit acceleration is normal.
What should I look into?
trek97 said:
Ah I don't remember if I synced the carbs after I replaced the diaphragm!
But I have set the A/F screws multiple times (trying to get rid of backfiring and black deposits in exhaust pipes) but I could have been doing it wrong lol
To set the A/F screws I'm just looking for the point of highest rpms on each carb right?
rsjudka said:
If the carbs were synced before diaphragm they will still be good. As long as the lock nut and adj screw hasnt moved.
Yep, highest rpm. The bike MUST be at operating temp for this. You should be able to get them real close as its easiest to hear the rpm changes w your dual exhaust.
For me its easier to hear to hear rpm change. As the stock tach really isnt accurate enough to show the small changes.
Besides the fact Im cheating using the digital Oxygen sensor.
Next time you fire it up and feel its accelerating slowly. Touch the exhaust headers and see if one is cooler than the other.
Hey guys sorry for being so inactive but I was bust with school (projects and midterms and such)
I was checking the vacuum pressure of each of my carbs and they are a bit of sync (26 left 30 right) so I'm going to need to sync that up, but I just got stock mufflers for the bike but there is a pinhead sized hole in one of them. Will this hole cause any problems? Or is there an easy way to patch it up? Also is there some safe way to remove surface rust from the pipes?
I also noticed a drilled hole in the right side, is that supposed to be there?
I was checking the vacuum pressure of each of my carbs and they are a bit of sync (26 left 30 right) so I'm going to need to sync that up, but I just got stock mufflers for the bike but there is a pinhead sized hole in one of them. Will this hole cause any problems? Or is there an easy way to patch it up? Also is there some safe way to remove surface rust from the pipes?
I also noticed a drilled hole in the right side, is that supposed to be there?
I can't remember if the stock pipes can be taken apart. That's your baffling. It maybe be that the metal screen is rusting away and letting the baffling fall out. If they come apart, all that stuff inside can be replaced.
I don't exactly recall. But, Im thinking I cut one open once and there was nothing in there but pipes and chambers and a screen.
I wouldn't really worry about it too much unless it becomes annoyingly loud or it starts running noticeably different.
The drilled hole is supposed to be there. Lets water weep out.
You can try using Glass top stove cleaner w a wadded up ball of aluminum foil to clean surface rust stains.
As for the rust through hole. Have it cleaned up and welded or try a muffler repair kit from Autozone.
I wouldn't really worry about it too much unless it becomes annoyingly loud or it starts running noticeably different.
The drilled hole is supposed to be there. Lets water weep out.
You can try using Glass top stove cleaner w a wadded up ball of aluminum foil to clean surface rust stains.
As for the rust through hole. Have it cleaned up and welded or try a muffler repair kit from Autozone.
There is definitely fiberglass matte inside them. I have a set here that has it.
