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Author Topic: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.  (Read 8329 times)

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12487
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« on: Jan 02, 2011, 14:30:42 »
This isn't a video just results of tests I just did after fitting a 7.5a/hr sealed gel battery.
 didn't want it getting lost

There is an awful lot of BS about how crap the CB360 charging system is (and old bikes in general)
 I just fitted a smaller battery (7.5 A/hr) to 1974 CB360.
 With lights OFF it's showing 13.4v at idle rising to a max of 15.4v @ 4,000rpm (no need to go higher, once the regulator cuts in, there ain't no more)
With the lights on, (including flashers and brake light, just about maximum load)
1t's reading 13.85v AT IDLE  :o rising to 15.4v @4,000 rpm
 Now, that's not the important bit.
 The important thing is, at idle with lights off, the charging amps are ZERO and stay at ZERO to 4,000rpm (load balanced)
 With the lights ON, charges about 0.5amp at idle and, the real important bit, approx 1.5amps @ 4,000 rpm (should have used digital instead of analog meter, but was using digital for volts)
 I'll run tests again on one of my bikes when I get round to it  :D
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 Itís not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you werenít doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline diesel450

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Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #1 on: Jan 14, 2011, 10:58:12 »
Okay, and forgive my ignorance but what's that all mean? IT doesn't charge with the lights off?

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12487
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #2 on: Jan 15, 2011, 02:00:56 »
Correct, it doesn't charge with lights off but charges at over one amp with lights on.
If your using a small battery, you need to know it's max charge rate.
 If it's in the milliamp range, eventually it will probably explode when fitted to bike and charging at 'high' amps
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 Itís not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you werenít doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline frogman

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  • Posts: 1962
  • '74 CB360, '71 CB450, '75 CB550SS
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #3 on: Jan 15, 2011, 11:40:17 »
Is there some real reason why we can't hotwire the 3 set of windings to charge all the time? I know there is a simple way to do it but why would honda not use all the windings in the first place? Maybe they burn down?

Offline avnsteve

  • Posts: 9
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #4 on: Jan 15, 2011, 12:20:45 »
yeah CrazyPJ,

I never understood the ranting about cb360's "poor charging system"  I've not had a problem with mine

Offline diesel450

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Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #5 on: Jan 15, 2011, 12:21:59 »
Okay then my next question is; Is there a way to regulate the charge rate going to the battery? A different regulator that could be used?

This is great info PJ, Thanks!

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12487
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #6 on: Jan 15, 2011, 12:37:23 »
When they were built daytime running lights were not a requirement.
 The excess current shunted to ground creates heat which has to be dissipated.
 That's not really  problem, it just costs more to build to a higher quality, which kinda defeats the purpose of a 'cheap' bike (plus, the voltage control/regulation wasn't as good 30~40 yrs ago)
 I'm going to fit a more modern integrated regulator/rectifier unit (although only about 10~12 yrs newer, early ~mid 80's style)
It is easy to wire all outputs into a new/newer 5~6*1 wire rectifier/reg which will get rid of some potential problems in wiring.

*1
5 wire grounds through body, 3 inputs, output and control voltage, 6 wire has dedicated ground lead
 
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 Itís not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you werenít doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline diesel450

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Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #7 on: Jan 15, 2011, 12:40:34 »
I was planning on running a new integrated reg/rec. On this and that battery eliminator from Oregon parts is only $35. I'm thinking that may be the way to go. I may try it both ways and see what happens too.

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12487
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #8 on: Jan 16, 2011, 00:29:48 »
I did some tests this afternoon on  my CB360.
 Results were quite interesting (at least to me they were.)
max charging volts with good battery


 Max charging amps with low beam, at idle, goes up as rpm increases but I don;t have enough hands to hold meters, leads and camera  ;D


actual battery voltage with ignition off after about 15mins running


 I fitted the smaller 7.5 amp hr battery and did a quick check.
 This is total amp draw with ignition ON but headlight OFF.
 Ign coils , switches and neutral light need almost three and a half amps just to 'light up'
You can see battery has dropped by 1volt in the time it took to get camera 'lined up'
The 13.02V is a 'surface voltage and drops off real quick, if bike had been running for longer battery ould have gotten a deeper charge.
 It's a good idea to check battery just off charger then again about an hour later to find stabilised voltage


 BTW, Your mileage may vary  ;)
« Last Edit: Jan 16, 2011, 00:34:44 by crazypj »
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 Itís not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you werenít doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline nateridesbikes

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Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #9 on: Jun 05, 2011, 20:29:21 »
I might be understanding this wrong but are you saying that the bike is only supposed to charge when the headlight is on?

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12487
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #10 on: Jun 05, 2011, 20:39:24 »
When the headlight is on it switches extra coils in generator into charging circuit.
 At idle, it's still charging at half an amp with a 35w bulb 'burning'
Half amp at  nominal 12 volts is only about 6 watts (really closer to 6.5 watts)
 It means you cant run more than a 40 watt bulb without flattening battery, 45 watts will be OK as long as rpm is always above 3,000.
 If you fit a 60/55w H4 bulb, you will have limited riding time because generator can't produce enough power, even at high rpm
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 Itís not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you werenít doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12487
  • Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 1974 CB360 electrical tests.
« Reply #11 on: Nov 14, 2011, 14:44:31 »
OK, an update.
 Brendon's bike charges at a slightly higher rate than mine.
 He's been using a 60/55 H4 bulb for several months without any issues.
However, he does rev the hell out of it  ;D
I re-did ground lead (fitted an extra green wire to center of rectifier mounting bolt and cleaned frame real good around toolbox mounting bolt)
 It's working real good (good enough for him to fall down yesterday  ;D )
It was in gravel at about 5mph though
 
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 Itís not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you werenít doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0