Rearset Install 82 CB750 Passenger Triangle

So unlike most or all of the posts that I found for this, I couldnt find any that have the "filled in" passenger triangle.



So I am thinking of drilling a hole, then welding the mount in that triangle, near the top front. An inches behind and a couple inches up from the brake pedal bolt. Im using Tarozzi Universal. The triangle is two sheets of metal (certainly not 1/4"), spaced apart. The "mount" would be a coupling nut about an inch long.

Would this essentially work? Should I strengthen the triangle? I could weld a "back plate" behind the triangle, or open it up and weld it behind. It should be strong enough since it holds the exhaust and passenger pegs, but Im worried about the coupler in the thinner sheet metal not twisting or bending. (I think I am answering my own questions as I write this out)....

Thoughts?

Not exactly sure what you're asking here. If you're looking to mount your rear sets to the passenger peg mounts (what you're referring to as "triangle" I think), you shouldn't need to strengthen them. They should be strong enough as is from the factory. Be sure to mock them up before you mount anything, though, as depending on your height mounting rear sets to the passenger peg mounts can result in an uncomfortable riding position.

To mount the tarozzis all you need is a hole large enough to accommodate the large Allen bolt, and put the nut that they include on the back side.

Posting some close up pics of the area where you're trying to mount the rear sets would be helpful.

Yeah apologies. Let me try to clarify my thoughts better. I was looking at using the metal that is currently in the triangle (not the passenger peg hole specifically), to drill through and use as the mounting spot. Take a piece of bread and poke a finger through it (type of thing).

Now as I think this out a little more, I am not sure if it makes sense to keep the passenger pegs, or the triangle at all. Just weld on a tab onto the frame and tap a hole like most do. Originally I was thinking of welding in a larger coupler that the bolt would screw into, but then the hole is twice as large as it needs to be and its over kill.

I guess I am wondering how thick or meaty does that section that I drill the single bolt hole need to be? Or what if its a tab onto the frame etc. If I can drill through the triangle section and use that, it keeps my passenger pegs, plus saves from welding extra bits on. Just a 10mm hole in what looks like 2mm thick metal (doubled up so about 4mm total thick). Ill go get some photos haha

I use 5/16" 6061 for the brackets on the rear sets I build.

If you use the passenger peg hole, you're fine. If you want to mount them somewhere in the middle, I'd beef it up.

I wouldn't use anything lighter than 1/4" steel for the mounting point of your rearsets. But yeah, some pics would be helpful. From what you're saying, I'm guessing the pass peg 'triangles' are made of bent tube section with some sheet metal filling in the void. I wouldn't recommend mounting the rearsets in there without reinforcing it. And depending on what gauge is there to begin with (you said 2mm, so prob like 14-12 ga) it may be worth it to just scrap those and weld some new tabs on.

Yeah I am going to cut them off. Don't need passenger pegs and moving to a shortish exhaust so will fab up something else to brace it. Many brackets use two mounting bolts, but this universal Tarozzi only has one, which would have more stress on the gusset/weld etc. Need to be aware of that moving forward.

Now just need to figure out how to fab the connection to the master cylinder with these rearsets!

J-Rod10 said:

I use 5/16" 6061 for the brackets on the rear sets I build.

If you use the passenger peg hole, you're fine. If you want to mount them somewhere in the middle, I'd beef it up.

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Oh Jesus, the passenger peg hole is way to far back. It's uncomfortable. Somewhere in the middle feels good. Its hard without a proper seat but its close. And the frame line is almost perfectly in the middle. Doing it in the middle of the passenger triangle seemed like it made sense, but its not the cleanest look and was just going to look poorly done.

MattCB750OT said:

Oh Jesus, the passenger peg hole is way to far back. It's uncomfortable. Somewhere in the middle feels good. Its hard without a proper seat but its close. And the frame line is almost perfectly in the middle. Doing it in the middle of the passenger triangle seemed like it made sense, but its not the cleanest look and was just going to look poorly done.

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Eliminate the entire bracket, and weld a new one on, would be your best bet.

Or, buy a set made for that bike.

They pop up in the DOHC forum somewhat frequently. The Sport Kit.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-N920A using Tapatalk

Yeah, the tarozzis mount differently than most OEM sport bike rear sets that I have seen. While it does put more stress on the bracket than a setup that has two mounting points, remember that most of your weight will be supported by the seat. You still want the brackets to be able to hold significantly more than your weight, but they can still be pretty 'light-looking' if you do it right. Here's what I did on the 360. The top leg of the 'A' is somewhere about smack in the middle of where the two tubes of the original pass legs were.



Mock up some plywood or whatever mounts, bolt the tarozzis on and duct tape them to your frame to get them in a comfortable spot.

I've built quite a lot of "rear sets". Very often they turn out to be quite a lot of work to make them function really well, and not cause conflicts with other components like the exhaust system and side stand etc. That is why I spend a LOT of time determining exactly where they need to go. You will very wisely spend your time if you determine the bars and hand controls you want to use and set them up like you think you will have them when done. Likewise with the seat. If you don't know exactly what you want, mock something up substantial enough so you can really sit on the bike. Do the same thing mocking up the pegs. Spend as much time fooling around with the bars and seat and peg heights and positions as you need to to get a really comfortable riding position. I've used all sorts of things - blocks of wood, bricks and blocks - I had some tiny jack stands that were pretty handy. Bolting (or temporarily welding) a scrap plate on the bike and trying out peg positions is best, but may be impractical. Just make your mock up stout enough so you can really sit on the bike and put you feet solidly where you think you want them to go. 1/2" in any direction can make a real difference. Don't think you can get a feel for what you are doing by sitting on your bike for 5 minutes. Try 30. A pretty short ride. If you can't feel fresh and comfortable after sitting on your mock up for 30 minutes listening to the radio, etc, your bike will not be comfortable to drive. Don't try to compensate for the lack of wind resistance - if you lean forward very far it is not very important like it is if you are sitting upright. If you are leaning forward even a little the air drag is not exactly pulling the bars out of your hands, and if you get going so fast it is a factor, you probably won't be thinking about how comfortable your bike is as presumably the speed will have your attention! What is very important is having you feet reasonably well under you so you can move around easily on the bike while riding it, which is very important if you like to ride with much enthusiasm. I see a lot of bikes with pegs too far back and bars too low. I'd agree that it looks very cool and is in fact pretty fun when you first hop on the bike, but don't let the aesthetics overcome sound judgement. The low clip on bars on race bikes are there to keep air drag to a minimum which is a real factor when racing, but not the best for good control of the bike. This also tends to push the seat back and consequently the pegs. On a street bike, probably you will be happier with a set up that looks and feels racy, but isn't actually that severe.

Point is, it is the same amount of work to build everything no matter the position, so invest a little time and trouble to get everything in just the right spot. You will think it a drop in the bucket by the time you finish making all the bits!

Thats great info jpmobius and adventurco. The example is great... I find it hard to sift through 20-30 pages just to find an example of what someone used for a bracket (then I find the page and they just used the stock location or passenger peg - ugghhhh). jpmobius - I can get a rough idea of where they should be by feel, but you make me second guess it LOL (which is a good thing).

I cut off the passenger triangles, cleaned up the pipes and am now sorting out a tab/bracket to be welded on. I'm most likely going to tack them on, and then let the welder finish it up nice and proper. He mentioned the tab should be pretty small, and that the smaller it is the stronger it is, I am assuming he means against the frame? I've spent a bunch of time trying to find resources online but there are almost none to read in order to get a better understanding. All I find are welding forums that make me feel like I have less than zero knowledge about the subject. I'm looking at a 1/4 thick, 2inch against frame, by about 2 inches out. Should I be looking at more of a bracket like adventurco? Its hard to find the sweet spot...

Good way to do them.

I like those JRod. You make?

@Matt - as for your bracket size, I wouldn't really go 100% by what your welder says. Obviously you don't want a 4" solid bracket welded onto your frame, as that will probably weaken the frame more than anything. Depending on how far back you want your pegs to be and what the design of your bracket looks like, that will define your size requirements. My advice would be to find your ideal position first, then design your brackets based off that.

adventurco said:

I like those JRod. You make?

@Matt - as for your bracket size, I wouldn't really go 100% by what your welder says. Obviously you don't want a 4" solid bracket welded onto your frame, as that will probably weaken the frame more than anything. Depending on how far back you want your pegs to be and what the design of your bracket looks like, that will define your size requirements. My advice would be to find your ideal position first, then design your brackets based off that.

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I do.

www.slipstreamcycle.com

J-Rod10 said:

I do.

www.slipstreamcycle.com

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Yeah I love those! Good work!