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Author Topic: CB360 - Clean and simple  (Read 14842 times)

Offline jag767

  • Posts: 947
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #180 on: Mar 20, 2017, 01:02:06 »
It appears to be on an angled towards the hub, might have an issue clearing the tire, since it should really if anything be angled the opposite way. Had to do something similar on my last bike which is why I know.

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #181 on: Mar 20, 2017, 01:09:31 »
Also got it sandblasted and the first (rough) coat of paint.




And the modified bracket again:


Not super thrilled with the weld still and I will probably fill those holes, but it's good enough for the bottom of the swing arm I guess  :-\

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #182 on: Mar 20, 2017, 22:36:41 »
This is ugly.


Bye!


Smooth  8)

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #183 on: Mar 20, 2017, 22:39:00 »
Did some more welding to prove to myself I'm not completely lame at welding..

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #184 on: Mar 21, 2017, 00:56:05 »
So how am I going to trigger the brake light now that I cut the mount for the switch off?

Hopefully with one of the extra neat things I have in mind for this build.

I adjusted the bracket I cut off for the brake light switch to fit on the other side of the frame:


It's new job will be to hold the new proximity sensor for the brake lights:


The cool thing about this is that there won't be any moving parts or even contact of any kind... notice the clearance:


Part of the reason why I went this route is to clean up the outside of the frame... it's almost totally hidden from the side.



I will have to build a controller for this, but I was planning on doing that anyway. It has a pretty tight tolerance, so the brake light will engage relatively quickly once the pedal is pressed. Since this switch is normally closed, and opens when the pedal moves away, my plan is to use a pull-up pin that is activated in the up position - so when the switch is closed, the pin is low/grounded, and the brake lights come on. The benefit to this is that it will have a fail safe in that if the switch fails or the pedal doesn't line up for some reason, it will fail in the brake lights on position. I figure looking like I'm braking is better than actually braking with no brake lights.

Here's a video of the sensor in action - you can see the indicator light on the sensor turn on/off with the pedal movement.


Offline JadusMotorcycleParts

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Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #185 on: Mar 21, 2017, 06:43:46 »
Mate that's bloody awesome.  Had never thought of that.  Reminds me of the prix sensor on my 3D printer  :D


Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #187 on: Mar 21, 2017, 12:52:02 »
Mate that's bloody awesome.  Had never thought of that.  Reminds me of the prix sensor on my 3D printer  :D

Thanks  :D

A few of the reviews on this sensor I got said it works great for their 3d printers ha.... not sure how long it will last on the motorcycle but I'm going to make it easy to change and probably coat it in something waterproof.



This is a hydraulic pressure switch - which doesn't work on a non-hydraulic, mechanical linkage brake system like the original rear drum brake on a CB360. It will work for the front brake though and will be the route I go if the original switch is broken or I can't find a place to put it.

Offline irk miller

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Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #188 on: Mar 21, 2017, 13:38:37 »


This is a hydraulic pressure switch - which doesn't work on a non-hydraulic, mechanical linkage brake system like the original rear drum brake on a CB360. It will work for the front brake though and will be the route I go if the original switch is broken or I can't find a place to put it.
No, it works on your front brake switch.  You don't need to a rear break switch when you have a front one.  Even the slightest pull powers the light.  Requires very little effort, and no welding to install.

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #189 on: Mar 23, 2017, 03:19:17 »
Unfortunately, the previous owner put a cheap, universal forward foot rest on this bike...


And it ended up making some dents in the down tube  :(



So I'm just doing some prep before painting the frame to clean up the bits like this... and my grinding marks.



Still needs more work and I'm debating how much work is worth putting into this frame  ???

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #190 on: Mar 25, 2017, 01:55:59 »
Found a heim joint.. this looks way better.

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #191 on: Mar 25, 2017, 02:07:41 »
Getting the cases ready for reassembly:

Splash guards are shiny again


Raser blading the last bits of old gasket material off


Final washing



I'm debating about drilling out the oil passages or not... mostly I had trouble finding how big the hole should be either before or after drilling so I'm not sure if it's been drilled already and don't want to make it too big.

While I imagine this would increase flow, it should also decrease pressure? does that little oil pump have enough to continue to reliably get oil to the top end.. or was the hole undersized to begin with?
« Last Edit: Mar 25, 2017, 02:19:28 by tnum »

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #192 on: Mar 25, 2017, 02:31:20 »
Speaking of the oil pump..




Turns out the gasket kit I had ordered came with the oil pump gasket as well  8)


Upgrading to stainless steel cap screws


Going back together


Nice


Side note about the new screws, although they are a little longer, they fit flush to the other side



Also cleaned up all the case bolts



Offline crazypj

  • Posts: 12241
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Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #193 on: Mar 25, 2017, 18:40:30 »
I think the oil hole is drilled to 3/32", haven't done one for a long time. It's probably more important to do the oil transfer piece inside clutch cover, that is the main problem with top end oiling. The mains and big end bearings are pretty much always flooded with oil, they need flow not pressure. oil pump actually provides too much pressure at high rpm which forces the transfer piece/oil pressure valve open dumpimping oil back to sump. There is still enough getting through to lube mains, etc but not enough pressure to get to cam bearings. I doubt a 1/8" hole would lower flow to mains enough to cause a problem, gravity will keep enough oil flowing. (BIG ENDS ARE NOT PRESSURE FED)
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
I gave my girlfriend an orgasm the other night, but, she spat it back at me
 Some humans would do anything to see if it was possible to do it. If you put a large switch in some cave somewhere, with a sign on it saying 'End-of-the-World Switch. PLEASE DO NOT TOUCH', the paint wouldn't even have time to dry
 It’s not worth doing something unless someone, somewhere, would much rather you weren’t doing it  (Terry Pratchett)
CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline tnum

  • Posts: 112
Re: CB360 - Clean and simple
« Reply #194 on: Mar 26, 2017, 01:06:42 »
I think the oil hole is drilled to 3/32", haven't done one for a long time. It's probably more important to do the oil transfer piece inside clutch cover, that is the main problem with top end oiling. The mains and big end bearings are pretty much always flooded with oil, they need flow not pressure. oil pump actually provides too much pressure at high rpm which forces the transfer piece/oil pressure valve open dumpimping oil back to sump. There is still enough getting through to lube mains, etc but not enough pressure to get to cam bearings. I doubt a 1/8" hole would lower flow to mains enough to cause a problem, gravity will keep enough oil flowing. (BIG ENDS ARE NOT PRESSURE FED)

Thanks, I guess it's worth doing then.