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I found I had to hold the stem onto the injector. But, was able to backwash them.
Comparison shot. Really doesnt do it justice, can was new on the starting shot, pretty low on pressure for the final shot.
But you should easily see a difference.
As luck would have it O-rings, grommets, vac hose and new brackets arrived from bobsbmw.
Now you have me wondering about my six injectors (two K75s) . . . But both bikes run well, good gas mileage, good idle . . . I'll try to think about something else
Seeing the fuel pressure regulator in there (behind the airbox) reminds me that if you should, at some point, start seeing gasoline in the oil (rising oil level), the FPR may be the culprit. Just a minor tip.
Seeing the fuel pressure regulator in there (behind the airbox) reminds me that if you should, at some point, start seeing gasoline in the oil (rising oil level), the FPR may be the culprit. Just a minor tip.
No. There's a vacuum diaphragm in it; if it develops a pinhole the vacuum pulls the gas in through the intake and washes down past the rings. At least that's how it was described to me. I had that occurring years ago when I bought my low-mileage K75; oil level was rising and an oil analysis showed significant gas in the oil.
Pretty much all but a few specific nuts and bolts, are available. Through MAX BMW, all but like 6 parts are available. I guess it depends on what you need for the price to be obscene. Something like a starter is insanely priced there ($450), but DB electric sells one for $150.
I have one of those, bought many years ago in an attempt to set up the FI on a 1979 BMW 733i (auto). Oddly enough, the FI on that car was very similar to that on a K75 (L-Jetronic without Lambda). It was never clear to me how accurate it is. But perhaps I didn't spend enough time understanding its operation.
That was a wonderful car with an absolutely shitty engine. Bought it for $1000 because an incompetent tech had failed to tighten the pressure plate to the flywheel properly after a clutch replacement; bolts sheared and the car was dead on the water. (I dropped the trans, replaced and tightened the bolts, and it worked just fine.) It had a near-perfect body and was built like a tank. What would have made it near perfect would have been a small block Chevy transplant with an auto trans. Too big a job at the time, but I sold it for $2500 . . .
I bet it was a nice car. Never owned a BMW or Mercedes. But have driven a few and IMO the BMWs always seemed to be nicer machines.
Yeah Im not real sure about this tester, either. I was considering a second cheapy exhaust system and installing the O2 sensor on it.
But at $125. It cost about the same either way. (Amazon has it priced at $240.00) And this just seems like a whole lot less effort. Feeling lazy this morning. Ha.
Not to mention, this follows BMWs procedure for setting it up.
Not sure what you mean about installing the O2 sensor . . . K75s don't have one . . . or have you figured out a way to add Lambda feedback to have a closed-loop system (L-Jet w/ Lambda)?
Some years ago I rebuilt a 1968 M-B 280S (full-size sedan). I would say that the M-B seemed more stately and luxurious than the 1979 BMW, but the BMW (and the only other one I have driven) were much "tighter" and more sporting. Probably neither of my impressions are valid for modern incarnations of those cars.
But "nice" cars are an order of magnitude more expensive than "nice" motorcycles, and I don't really have any desire to drive any car in pleasant weather (that's why they make motorcycles) nor a nice car in foul weather, so the only car and pickup I have nowadays are Japanese-nameplate ones. Excellent appliances.
I installed dual o2 sensors w digital display. Simply to receive real time mix info from carbs on my 76 cb360.
I would go for a ride and see what the air/fuel mix was through out rpm range and driving conditions. Then would make jetting changes til I got her right.
Made tuning simple and fun...as opposed to miserable.
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