FIRST BIKE EVER 1982 KZ440 LTD HELP ME!

also about the air box i found some foam and cleane dout the old one and hot glued the foam onto it seemd to work fine! yea i read that rejettting and all thats a bitch

It will probably either be your sync or possibly a vacuum leak in the carb boots. You can spray around the boots where they meet the head and where the carbs seat into them with wd-40 or carb cleaner, if the idle surges up then you have a vac leak and need to replace the gaskets or boots. Try bench syncing the carbs with a paperclip but likely they will need to be vacuum synced with a manometer. There's plenty of helpful videos on Youtube

steveinwa said:

Congrats, I am building a KZ550 right now, lucky it was barely running when I got it. order a carb bowl gaskets, drop the bowl and carb clean the f out of it, be careful not to bend the floats. Get a new fuel filter and put it in between the petcock and carbs, take a bunch of screws put the in the tank (after taking it off) and shake it up to remove the rust, unless it's really bad, you can buy a kit for like $100 that you pour in and seal the rust. once that is done or I bought a fuel bottle and use that hanging from the bars so the gas is clean. New battery (bought a gel so you can remount later at any angle) look at the coils under the tank, if either is cracked you need a new one. Use eBay (I work for them once it's running then go over the brake system, remove the dot fluid completly then fill and bleed. drive it around a bunch and make sure it's a runner before you waste money on anything else.

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lovin ur bike bro!

advCo said:

It will probably either be your sync or possibly a vacuum leak in the carb boots. You can spray around the boots where they meet the head and where the carbs seat into them with wd-40 or carb cleaner, if the idle surges up then you have a vac leak and need to replace the gaskets or boots. Try bench syncing the carbs with a paperclip but likely they will need to be vacuum synced with a manometer. There's plenty of helpful videos on Youtube

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whats bench syncing?

Is the air box in place? Maybe too much air available. Choke adjusted?

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Ok sprayed around the boots and yes it surged I got it at about 1500 rpm idle.. is that normal what should it be at in idle.. and should I just put a Lil silicon around the boots for a temp fix

11 - 1300 seems to be the spec for idle so not so bad. Your just going by the tach? That may not be completely accurate. I have in the past used brake lube, not fluid... Lol... The clear grease you would put on the caliper slides. I have reconditioned the carb boots with it, Someone may have a better idea on here. The rubber gets hard, then when you move the carbs you get leaks.

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Yuup just by the tach

Im thinking that's ok then. just recondition the boots and reseal, should be good

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It hasn't run in awhile. The old bikes I find need adjustments on occasion.. Lol.... temperatures etc. Run it awhile and it'll settle in.

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Lotsa shit in there that has to get burnt off and out

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Just because you got an idle, doesn't mean much. You cleaned the carb. How? Did you check the idle and air screw rubbers? Are either of those screws mashed on the end? When you rev the engine, does the RPMs drop properly? How about under Load? How do the needles look? How about the floats? What condition are the vacuum rubbers? These need to be in good condition, if not, your idle will change every time you start the bike or accelerate or decelerate. What condition are the jets?

Your intake rubbers... Do you have gaskets between the manifolds and head? Are the carbs. seated properly in the manifolds and the clamps aren't too tight causing leaks? How much crap is floating in the tank? Are the petcock filters clean? These are just a few things that can keep you chasing issues for weeks. If the intakes are cracked, get new ones. I've heard of people coating them in POR15 to fill cracks on hard to find or expensive intakes.

A base line for the majority of carbs. is 1 1/2 turns out on air screw and usually 2 turns on the idle. If the bike idles on these, then you can start fine tuning. If you need a lot of adjustment off these to get an idle, then you have issues that'll manifest in top end (speed) issues, idle issues, riding issues etc. Bogging every time you upshift is no fun. 0-60 in 12 seconds is frustrating. Get those carbs. sorted.

Bench synching is easy and a few videos on YouTube will get you there.

The rubber parts between the carbs are called carb boots.
The ones between the air box and the carbs are called air box boots.
Replace them all, you will eliminate a lot of your problems.
There is no sense fighting old, dried out rubber that doesn't seal.


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