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Author Topic: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.  (Read 27374 times)

Online irk miller

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #130 on: Dec 28, 2017, 21:05:58 »
But 360 is coming apart as soon as Rachels 400 is finished.

It's on now.

Offline trek97

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Offline trek97

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #133 on: Dec 29, 2017, 17:51:41 »

Offline crazypj

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #134 on: Dec 31, 2017, 14:25:02 »
I wouldn't worry about oil pump pick up, it works fine.
The only time it could be an issue is if oil level is low, side stand mount is worn and you park on a heavily cambered road.
If you keep oil between the marks and check it plus don't run bike when it's 'laying on it's side' everything is good
 I 'countersunk' the holes with a ball end cutter in Dremel on the inside, don't do anything except scrape off burrs  inside the drive slots
« Last Edit: Dec 31, 2017, 14:33:28 by crazypj »
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline Sonreir

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #135 on: Jan 02, 2018, 16:00:07 »
I'm a bit late on this one, but the larger washer might be a thrust washer for the camshaft? Did you have the top end apart?
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Offline Cursh

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #136 on: Jan 06, 2018, 12:33:52 »
Figured out the extra washer.

The one I was installing as the factory spacer between the clutch and the block was a spacer from a threaded bicycle headset. It happened to be the exact same size as the wear marks on the case.  It was too thick to allow the circlip to snap into the shaft.

I figured it out when I was rebuilding a bike headset and rcognized the size and thickness.

question
Anyone ever had trouble with spark plugs staying tight in helicoils?

too much context
Iím also having some trouble syncing the carbs. It said that I had bad compression or late valve timing. I took the side covers off to put that oil pickup washer on and install an OEM stator side cover (the one I got Ďon eBay for the clutch side was soooo much nicer than the paper gaskets I picked up from common motor. Figured Iíd use the good stuff while I could still find it.)

While the covers were off I had 130 right cyl and 120 left, so that checks out.
Both plugs were a little loose. I had to put helicoils in because I buggered the left and it shot out on a ride back in early 2014. The plugs feel a little looser in them than Iím used to. Same was true of the compression tool, so when they are tight they work fine. Just wondering if I should be using a mild thread locker with the helicoils.
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
1984 Honda Ascot (water-cooled paper weight)
2005 Honda Element "HD"
Bicycle enthusiast.
www.instagram.com/cursh

Offline crazypj

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #137 on: Jan 08, 2018, 21:27:37 »
I have no idea how many thousands of Helicoils I've fitted?
If the 'Helicoil', Recoil, or inserts were done right they will be much stronger than original material and plugs will not  loosen without using a socket.out
It used to be common practice to Helicoil brand new VW Beetle crankcases  so you could use 'top' torque without worrying about pulling studs
If plugs are loosening up you need to tighten them further, if they pull inserts, you did something 'bad'
Threadlock is a REALLY BAD IDEA, do not use any on spark plugs. What will happen is plugs lock to Helicoil which then screws up everything when you try and remove them and inserts mess up whats left of treads in head. (I've had to repair way too many 'fixed' threads)

As for carb sync, should be simple enough if adjuster screw and left / right sections of throttle shaft extensions are more or less  parallel. The washers and spring are set properly
 You are 'snapping' throttle open then allowing it to snap shut? The sudden open and close allows various parts to align
« Last Edit: Jan 08, 2018, 21:40:45 by crazypj »
'you can take my word for it or argue until you find out I'm right'
Best thing I ever overheard
"yep, PJ's my boss, he taught me everything I know, just didn't teach me everything he knows"
Brian Morgan, 1982

CB360's,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11736.0
XS650,  http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=11922.0

Offline Cursh

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #138 on: Jan 08, 2018, 23:41:34 »
Thanks, PJ. It looks like I wasnít tightening them down enough. I was worried I was stripping them and  stopped before the crush washer set.


I also wasnít snapping the throttle.


Gonna double check the valves later this week and bench synch the carbs. Iím almost certain I put them way out of whack when I was trying to synch them.
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
1984 Honda Ascot (water-cooled paper weight)
2005 Honda Element "HD"
Bicycle enthusiast.
www.instagram.com/cursh

Offline Cursh

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Re: CB360 - OEM+ lets see what happens here.
« Reply #139 on: Feb 21, 2018, 11:51:54 »
So, the high pipes were putting too much heat next to the electronic ignition. The wrap seems to have solved that. I also figure out why I had no luck balancing the carbs. The copper crush washer was missing on one side of the exhaust. Iíve replaced both and now I get no flow on the other side. Iím going to pull the carbs again and take a look at them. No idea what it could be. Iíve got a second set of factory carbs so I have jets for days. The diaphragms are both new circa 6 months ago.


I donít love the copper. I had tan wrap, but it looks like you need to use sealer or your wrap just degrades and falls off. I couldnít find any sealer that wasnít colored. Iíve got so,e almond high heat paint and can try to move it back to the natural wrap colorist of room for error there.


Anyway, progress, but still just an idling paperweight.
If you see me f**cking up it's because I have no idea what I'm doing. You can either tell me I'm fucking up or watch me find out on my own. Both are appreciated.

75 CB360 project.
1984 Honda Ascot (water-cooled paper weight)
2005 Honda Element "HD"
Bicycle enthusiast.
www.instagram.com/cursh