'71 CB100/125 (the un scooter)

Learned a lesson today. If you take one of these bikes completely apart, don't put the swingarm back on before you hook up the brake lever and center stand springs. The brake spring went on with a spring puller but the center stand was a little trickier. Finally got it by sitting on the floor behind the bike and using a long thin screwdriver and first putting the spring on the bracket, levering over the tab on the stand.
Getting closer to having a finished project. Need the seat back from the upholstery guy and my wheels back from the builder. And get the exhaust sorted out. I'll get on the wiring over the weekend when it is raining.
 

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Just got a pic of the partially completed seat from my upholstery guy. Can't wait to fit it to the bike
 

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I think I found the solution for extending the air filter length. Found a 90 degree 1 ½ in silicone radiator hose online for $20. It is 12 in long and can be trimmed to place the filter under the battery box close to the position of the stock filter box. It should place the filter in a quiet air area so we'll see how it works
 

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Yes. Just used vht satin rollbar and chassis paint. I did three fog coats and two wet coats. I let it cure three days before I tried to work on it. The whole project took 4 cans. Had the frame walnut shell blasted which left a slightly rough finish and painted over that with no priming. That is what the can instructions call for. It appears to be very durable and since this is not going to get heavy use, it should be fine.
 
Just got the seat back from the upholsterer. I am really happy with the results. He used boat padding so it is really firm. Sat on it on the stands for about 10 min and the height seems just right I am 5'7".
 

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Wiring begins tomorrow. The bar switch is a pattern British repro. It will be used for indicators and horn. There are 2 grounded buttons. I would like to use the one on top as a kill button. Anyone have experience with doing this. The lights will be controlled with the switch in the battery box. It switched all off. Low head and tail. High head and tail. They work great. I had the same switch on my 67 Triumph 500. The biggest deal is checking all the lugs at each switch position with an ohm meter. It is not obvious from looking at the lugs.
 

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Looking good man. Can't wait to see how the air filter set up works for you.
 
I emailed Matthew at Sparck Moto and he helped me thru the kill button question. It needs a relay in the circuit. If any of you need to do this pm me and I will forward the instructions and a link to the relay.
 
Did you already re jet your carb for the air filter? I really want to do the same but I have read that a lot of people were having issues with pod's on these engines.
 
Not yet. I need my wheels back from the builder so I can roll it out of the basement. It was a non runner when I bought and the 100 and 125 were both in crates. I have since found a running 125 from a '76 that is 14hp and has the two piece head with bigger valves and a 24 mm carb as standard. I lowered the needle clip one notch and will have to sort it out from there. Extending the inlet tube should minimize some of the problems.
 
Got a good start on the wiring today. Main and light switches wired new fuse block and only have the final runs to the indicators and ignition then I can cut all the runs to length and get it all bundled neatly.
We're really isn't much room between the frame and the fender but it should cut in the box. I mounted the SparckMoto r/r under the electronics box and used ¼ I'd grommets between it and the box to dampen vibration. That location gives it good air flow and keeps,it much cooler. I did the same mod to my old monster and never had any problems. Monsters come with the regulator buried under the seat and they are prone to heat failure.
 

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Trek

Then76 is 6V. SparckMoto had some 6V r/r s that were reasonable. The 7V anti gravity battery however was a big purchase. With no running bike I can focus all of my obsiveness on this. At the start I made a decision not to buy a Grom or a scooter so I am enjoying trying things on this that I wouldn't do if I were in a rush to,get it going.
 
Finally finished the wiring and everything works as planned with one small exception. When the indicators are on, both the indicator and the high beam lights in the speedo flash. Started when I connected the high beam indicator. It is really a minor issue but I will take the speedo off and get it sorted.
The relay that Matthew at SparckMoto helped me sort out clicks so the kill button should work.
Finally got the clutch cable measured up and an order off to motion pro. The 100 cable is too short for the new 125 and the one I got with the 125 is too long. Unlike the 100 & 122cc 125's which use a stop on the frame the 124cc uses a stop on the motor and pulls toward the front of the bike instead of towards the top. Also ready to order a cone engineering quite core reverse cone. The head pipe on the 125 is 1 ½ od so it should work fine.
Refilled the forks with oil and put oil in motor and kicked it thru without the plug about 20 times to prime the pump.
Now I just need the wheels so I can roll it out of the basement fuel it up and hear it run.
 

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Super Nice, kinda weird about the flashing high beam light.
You can get those fork springs chromed for $65-$70. 8)
A little spendy but It really is the icing on the cake.
 
Trek, I'll probably get them chromed next spring when I get the paint done. I bought this project in July of '14 and am anxious to get it on the road before we leave Wisconsin for the winter in late October. We have finally begun to finish the lower level of out house,that we did a total gut remodel on 3 years ago. So I work on that in the morning and fiddle with the bike in the afternoon.
 
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