'71 CB100/125 (the un scooter)

I understand...the chrome shop I use takes a minimum 6 weeks.

Just reading and thinking...Youre build is way too nice not to go all the way w the BLING!
 
Got the indicator light issue sorted. I had grouped the ground for the gauge,high beam and thru indicator into a single wire. When I plugged things together I had switched two wires. Took a closer look and saw the problem
 
For any of you who want to use a kill button with a modified working loom, here is the item I used

http://www.newark.com/te-connectivity-potter-brumfield/1432873-1/automotive-relay-spdt-6vdc-40a/dp/21M4888


Call Newark,and talk with them, their online system is cumbersome but their service and shipping is great.

I got the pin out from Matthew at SparkMoto
 

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I like the build! The relay is just so that you can use a smaller switch as a kill switch and it doesn't have to handle the power that goes to the coils?

Where in WI are you located? Don't worry, I won't rob your place again ;) Sorry to hear about that.
 
We are in Madison. Didn't recover the original wheels. Waiting on my friend to finish up building new ones with glass beaded hubs with new bearings and brake pads, stainless spokes and 18x WM0 alloy rims
 

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I used the same relay setup on my 360. The system works really well and minimizes excess connections between battery and coils (only a fuse, relay plug and relay contacts). So, your getting the cleanest, most consistent power to coil. Another bonus, if your relay ever fails. You can pick up a replacement at any auto parts store for $5.

I will probably incorporate the relay system once I convert the 100 to 12 volt. Getting parts collected (350 stator) now. My sparckmoto R/R is in the mail, just need to pick up the 2.2ohm resistor to add to the coil. Bonus all the leds Ive already installed can use 12vdc. 8)

W the 125 no need for this. But, I also installed a Heavy duty, 20amp, dpst, spring loaded toggle from Mcmaster as my starter switch. That way it kills the power to the lighting system, free-ing up all battery power to the starter selonoid/ starter when I press it, then it snaps back to power up the lights, once the bike is running.
 
Trek
When I wired the bike I used this. http://www.cycleterminal.com/mp280-fuse-box.html
And used one circuit for power from R/R - battery to switch. Then came off of the switch and powered the other two fuses. One is for the lights the other powers everything else.
All is 6volt
The bar switch controls indicators horn and kill button.
 

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That is truly a sweet setup you have built. A guy smart enough to pay attention to what your doing can really learn a lot.

Im really liking the little fuse holder, and the bar control. I may end up following your lead. But the electrical on my 100 is gonna be a winter project. So, gives me plenty of time to ponder things.

Considering a 100 mile ride today on the 360. That will test out the new LED headlamp I installed in the 360 last week. Too bad matt hasnt come up w an equivalent 6v. For the 100 Im gonna try the same snowmobile LED as Im using for the running/signals & brake. Its only 3 watts, but insanity bright. Currently been experimenting w different diffuser/reflector setups to find the best for daytime use. Thing would be annoying to oncoming traffic at high noon. And flat out dangerous in the evenings. But the wife will NEVER ride in the dark anyways. In the event of emergency I will have to ride home and get trailer to haul her home. So, will plan jaunts accordingly. til I come up w a better system and a decent LED alternative.

If worse comes to worse, after the 12v upgrade. I will run an 18/18w halogen in the 100. Its half assed decent enough to get you home after dark in a pinch, yet consuming minimal juice.

Matts 12 LED headlamp only uses 20w both low and high beams. And its freakin bright too, but, completely different setup, employs reflector. So not like the snowmobile lamp its a straight out shot, and the pinpoint is wicked.
 
I have 6V led's from superbrite everywhere and just got a replacement stock headlight bulb from DCC. Came in a Honda box and the difference between it and the original '71 are amazing. The old reflector looks amber in comparison
 
Muffler and mirrors are here. Stainless spokes ordered wheels should be about 2 weeks then roll it out of the lower level where it has lived for a year and final tune and ride! It is going to have a real air filter.
 

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Re: '71 CB100/125 (the un scooter) Tire Mounting Question

I am using a pair of IRC NR53's and they appear to be directional. There is an arrow on the sidewall that I think should face forward at both front and rear. Let me know if that is correct or not. Thanks
 
Thanks coyote. That was what I thought just needed confirmation

trek. Matt at SparckMoto had a few 6v 20w led headlights. He said they were hit and miss on performance. I took the gamble and have it just about ready to install. Will add pics when it is up and going
 
45exmayor said:
Thanks coyote. That was what I thought just needed confirmation

trek. Matt at SparckMoto had a few 6v 20w led headlights. He said they were hit and miss on performance. I took the gamble and have it just about ready to install. Will add pics when it is up and going

Let us know how that 20w headlight works;I have a CB125 that needs a headlight and would like more light out of my 6vt. system too.
 
Looking so good! Where did you get the exhaust baffle from? How is it mounted? My bike came with the stock exhaust but it didn't have the mounting bracket, been trying to figure that one out.
 
The muffler is a quite core from cone engineering http://www.coneeng.com/pdf/motorcycle/MC-finished-Mufflers.pdf
1 ½ id. I talked with them on the phone and they suggested a bracket that will weld on the frame side of the cone and use one spring to hold it. I have ordered some Wurth exhaust assembly paste for,the joint so it won't leak. I will get it to the welder this week
I am sure I a sure there are much less expensive solutions but since this "low cost" bike has taken on a life of it's own immightnas well just finish it the way I want . The initial goal,was to be less than a new $2,000scooter now the target is less than a Grom. If I pass that, then it needs to be less than a new monster. There is a lot f room on the up side.
 

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Curious about this kill switch relay problem. Is this why the kill on my DCC all in one switch doesn't work?
 
When I had the email conversation with Matthew at SparckMoto, it was clear to me that the only way to make a kill button work was with a relay since you need to remove the power to the coil not just ground it out. If your kill switch has two leads you will need to wire it so that the power for the coil comes in one side and the other side runs to the power wire of the coil. If is just a grounded bottom like the horn, you need the relay to brake the circuit.
 

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