Cb350 Tracker / Scrambler - The UpstateScrambler

ncologerojr

Coast to Coast
DTT BOTM WINNER
Progress has been slow lately on my xs650 project (http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=63229) due to various other customer projects, and this cb350. So I decided to start a thread for this build as well. I own a small business called Catskill Mtn. Customs Inc. (www.catskillmtncustoms.com) and this build will be sold upon completion. I'm shooting to have it wrapped up sometime in February so updates should come often.

The donor bike is a nice original '72 cb350 with only 3,700 original miles. Unfortunately it is non-running, with very low compression in one cylinder.



 
Nice base. Bummer about the compression but at least the rest looks rather clean. I've got a CL350 tracker of my own so I'm curious how this comes out. Any specific plans?
 
BarnBurner said:
Nice base. Bummer about the compression but at least the rest looks rather clean. I've got a CL350 tracker of my own so I'm curious how this comes out. Any specific plans?

Yeah, it was a very clean bike considering I live in the north east. The good news is that a local guy bought all the original parts to be used for some restoration projects, so they will go to good use.

I'm going to go with a dual-sport direction with this build. I am lucky enough to live in an area with very diverse scenery and road types. There is everything from gravel back roads to tight city streets, and I plan to build this bike to sort of handle it all. I have a lot of specifics in mind, but too much to type right now lol.
 
I started by cutting off the original stamped subframe and bent up a new one from 1" .120 wall tube. The shock mounts are made from 1/4" steel plate with stainless posts.





 
Once the subframe was all welded up I started on the brushed aluminum battery/electronics tray. It rubber-mounts with stainless hardware.





Here you can see it mocked up with taller shocks. The new shocks are the same height. I am going to balance the extra shock length by switching to a 19" front wheel with a taller tire to keep the trail numbers close to stock.

 
Cb350 Tracker / Scrambler - The UpstateScrambler

I'm going to be making a new tank and rear tail for this build. I would usually prefer to make both from aluminum, but I want this bike to be abused so I'm making the tank from steel for durability. The tail will be aluminum and also serve as a mudguard.

I start by making my shapes from foam, and then make my patterns from there.





Here is a pattern on the foam buck and a panel being roughed in. This panel only has about 20 minutes of work into it so far.
 
deviant said:
All in. Good stuff.
BarnBurner said:
Well that escalated quickly. Looks great!

Thanks guys.

Here is a bit more work on the tank. The first panel always takes the longest. This one is good for now, but it will probably get a bit more massaging once the other panels are complete and ready to be tacked together.

 
Just a tip- You can use hot glue to temporarily attach things to the frame for molding or testing. I noticed your using bar clamps. Hot glue pops right off of metal, especially when the weather gets colder. It'll melt the foam, so it's best to apply glue to the frame and let it cool a sec before attaching the foam.
 
deviant said:
Just a tip- You can use hot glue to temporarily attach things to the frame for molding or testing. I noticed your using bar clamps. Hot glue pops right off of metal, especially when the weather gets colder. It'll melt the foam, so it's best to apply glue to the frame and let it cool a sec before attaching the foam.

Thanks, but I already use hot glue lol. You can see the blue gun on the ground in the 2nd foam picture. I actually use it to hold the layers of foam together. I use the bar clamps because I am constantly taking the foam on and off to saw and shape. Re-glueing to the frame every time would be a pain.
 
ncologerojr said:
Thanks, but I already use hot glue lol. You can see the blue gun on the ground in the 2nd foam picture. I actually use it to hold the layers of foam together. I use the bar clamps because I am constantly taking the foam on and off to saw and shape. Re-glueing to the frame every time would be a pain.
To each his own. I do it the same way. It just pops right off. Pretty simple. Hot glue is the worst for laminating the layers together because it's harder than the foam and doesn't carve the same way. Your forms are pretty simple though, so maybe it doesn't effect your carving much. I've been using the foam for many years as a sculpture base material, which gets carved, coated and cast. Fine detail can be important. That foam is pretty versatile stuff.
 
deviant said:
To each his own. I do it the same way. It just pops right off. Pretty simple. Hot glue is the worst for laminating the layers together because it's harder than the foam and doesn't carve the same way. Your forms are pretty simple though, so maybe it doesn't effect your carving much. I've been using the foam for many years as a sculpture base material, which gets carved, coated and cast. Fine detail can be important. That foam is pretty versatile stuff.

Yeah, the hot glue doesn't really affect the carving for me. Also I'm making one-off parts so the foam buck doesn't have to be perfect because I tweak it a bit as I go. If I was doing fine details like you I would agree to avoid the hot glue as well. I've heard that liquid nails works well and sets pretty fast, but I haven't had a chance to try it out yet. Spray adhesive eats into this insulation foam and is ineffective also. What do you use to laminate the layers?
 
3M 78 doesn't degrade the foam. Liquid nails also gets hard and has a really long set time. The truth is even the adhesives that melt the foam work as long as the adhesive is applied very very thinly. In many cases, I've worked with the melting because if applied right away and held together, the two panels melt together. You've got me pretty excited with using foam as a buck mold. I was taught with wood and always went that route. Foam is so much easier to get the form sorted. Up to this point, I had only used it for fiberglass or various casting media. The one thing with a wood buck is being able to clamp the piece. I look forward to see you develop your tank and use the bucks as the form gets more complex.
 
deviant said:
3M 78 doesn't degrade the foam. Liquid nails also gets hard and has a really long set time. The truth is even the adhesives that melt the foam work as long as the adhesive is applied very very thinly. In many cases, I've worked with the melting because if applied right away and held together, the two panels melt together. You've got me pretty excited with using foam as a buck mold. I was taught with wood and always went that route. Foam is so much easier to get the form sorted. Up to this point, I had only used it for fiberglass or various casting media. The one thing with a wood buck is being able to clamp the piece. I look forward to see you develop your tank and use the bucks as the form gets more complex.

Good to know about he adhesive.

I've used wood bucks, but they're a pain and sometimes take longer to make than the part they're used for. They're also tough because you often can't see where your panel is hitting the buck and needs more work. I learned a different method and only use the buck for reference and pattern making. I know my part is right when it fits the buck without clamping. I also only need 1/2 the buck to do both sides.

You do any metal shaping? And pics?
 
ncologerojr said:
.

You do any metal shaping? And pics?
He dabbles.
 

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I added a pic above. Pretty much click any thread in deviants sig to find more:
 

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