Dumb question, but you are checking compression with the throttle open, right?
74 Honda XL 350 - The Turd
- Thread starter adventurco
- Start date
Lol. I wasn't. Brain fart.
It's reading ~100 psi cold, and same reading with a few squirts of oil. I had the cylinder measured and honed and put in new rings, haven't gone enough miles to get them broken in and seated quite yet (under 10 miles since rebuild)
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It's reading ~100 psi cold, and same reading with a few squirts of oil. I had the cylinder measured and honed and put in new rings, haven't gone enough miles to get them broken in and seated quite yet (under 10 miles since rebuild)
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Haha. All gravy, baby.
This thing should start. I'm gonna pull the carb tomorrow and make sure it's not gummed up from sitting, even though I drained it
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if you have the stock carb and it was colder the last time
they are a pin in the ass when it gets warmer you have to lean the mixture out to get them to start
or at least that is what i had to do on mine
key off one -2 kicks with the choke on
then key on 3/4 choke dont touch the throttle and kick it a few times it should go
or just give it a little squirt of ether get it going and re set the mixture
they are a pin in the ass when it gets warmer you have to lean the mixture out to get them to start
or at least that is what i had to do on mine
key off one -2 kicks with the choke on
then key on 3/4 choke dont touch the throttle and kick it a few times it should go
or just give it a little squirt of ether get it going and re set the mixture
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
That poor old yellow light.
Cleaned some gunk outta the carb and tossed it back on, no luck. It doesn't even sound like it wants to start.
I did swap out the stator with the '78 model when I put that LH side cover on. Pretty certain nothing changed there between 74-78 but I may try swapping that back to the old one to eliminate one variable.
Looks like I'm gonna have to find a leakdown tester.
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I did swap out the stator with the '78 model when I put that LH side cover on. Pretty certain nothing changed there between 74-78 but I may try swapping that back to the old one to eliminate one variable.
Looks like I'm gonna have to find a leakdown tester.
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Hold on. You don't need a leak down tester. You said you have compression. Anything above 90 will run. Do you have spark?advCo said:
irk miller said:
That's what I thought. Still doesn't explain why it's so easy to kick over now.
I do have spark. And fuel now.
redwillissuperman
Keep it simple- engine, wheels, bars
When in doubt, add gas 
️....
If you spray carb cleaner down the throat or use a syringe to squirt fuel in, it should cough and run if spark is present. If it doesn't, then it's ignition.
️....If you spray carb cleaner down the throat or use a syringe to squirt fuel in, it should cough and run if spark is present. If it doesn't, then it's ignition.
I swapped the original stator back onto the bike. Double and triple checked the valves and timing, gave her a few big huffs of ether and she fired right up.
Took a maiden voyage around the block. The tach stopped working about halfway around and the new can is way too loud, but I made it back with no issues.
Planning to make a baffle this week and I got a repop seat cover to throw on. The paint is staying for now. I will to repaint the tank and fenders later, when I get my paint gear back from my rents place in MA.
Here's a shot after the test ride
Took a maiden voyage around the block. The tach stopped working about halfway around and the new can is way too loud, but I made it back with no issues.
Planning to make a baffle this week and I got a repop seat cover to throw on. The paint is staying for now. I will to repaint the tank and fenders later, when I get my paint gear back from my rents place in MA.
Here's a shot after the test ride
lookin good, we need an MT250 XL350 faceoff
iatethepeach
Coast to Coast
Right on! Not having to push the bike home on its maiden 'round-the-block voyage is a nice morale boost. I think I had to do that three times in a row with my CL.
Watch out for the front end getting light over bumps when you have the panniers loaded up; they sit pretty far back. If there's any room to slide them forward, I would.
Watch out for the front end getting light over bumps when you have the panniers loaded up; they sit pretty far back. If there's any room to slide them forward, I would.
Thanks guys. I'm pretty happy with it so far.
Peach - I hadn't though of that. I can't really move the boxes the way I have em mounted currently without a bunch of cutting and welding. I'll have to do my best to keep the weight forward. Long term plan is to upgrade to larger aluminum boxes in the future anyways, so I will revisit that later.
Took her out again yesterday without changing anything. Did great on the road and even got a taste of some dirt/sand for a bit.
I did have two stalls, both when I pulled in the clutch to downshift/slow for a stop sign. Pretty sure I just need to play with the mixture and get the idle ironed out and that should take care of it. I'll do that and put the timing light on it sometime this week.
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Peach - I hadn't though of that. I can't really move the boxes the way I have em mounted currently without a bunch of cutting and welding. I'll have to do my best to keep the weight forward. Long term plan is to upgrade to larger aluminum boxes in the future anyways, so I will revisit that later.
Took her out again yesterday without changing anything. Did great on the road and even got a taste of some dirt/sand for a bit.
I did have two stalls, both when I pulled in the clutch to downshift/slow for a stop sign. Pretty sure I just need to play with the mixture and get the idle ironed out and that should take care of it. I'll do that and put the timing light on it sometime this week.
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Attempting to dial it in today.
I set static timing w/multimeter and it was dead on. When I put the strobe on it, it's advanced quite a bit from the 'F' mark this setting at idle. The closer I get it to F at idle(retarding the timing), the worse it runs. At 4K the advance marks are nowhere to be seen. I was careful reassembling the advancer after cleaning it up, but that could be causing an issue.
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I set static timing w/multimeter and it was dead on. When I put the strobe on it, it's advanced quite a bit from the 'F' mark this setting at idle. The closer I get it to F at idle(retarding the timing), the worse it runs. At 4K the advance marks are nowhere to be seen. I was careful reassembling the advancer after cleaning it up, but that could be causing an issue.
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Where do you have your idle set? By "closer I get to F at idle" where is the mark in relation to the F mark- to the left or to the right of it?
