XS750 '77 Danish Cafe Build

mathiasheitmann

New Member
So finally I'm gonna do this build thread on my XS750-2D EU/UK (1T5-...) first registered in 1979 in Denmark, but produced in 1977. With mikuni mark 1 carbs and 3-1 exhaust. Some previous owner installed electronic ignition.

I had it a couple of years now, I did a budget cafe build with DIY seat and paint with hammerite and vinyl on tank and side cover. Also power wrap titanium type (dime city cicles) but never doing that again, I pulled them of recently and found horribly rusted pipes!

Now it's gonna be the big build, but not the technical build, just the looks. I plan on removing the stock air filter and replacing them with k&n pods thus requiring some rejetting.

I live in Denmark, and I will link to all the good places I ordered parts from.

But first some images from the beginning. :)

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Ordered vinyl wrap from a Polish company trough eBay. I was just temporary as part of the budget build I did while studying.

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Plastic spray paint

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Painted the gas tank for real at that time. And removed the shorty exhaust. That was a pain in the ass when living in the city - waking up everybody when starting the machine in the morning with high revs on choke.

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Re: Yamaha XS750-2D Danish Cafe Racer Build

Watching this!what is your budget i've put different newer carbs on my XS750 and it makes a huge difference (will cost around 200 euros)...

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Re: Yamaha XS750-2D Danish Cafe Racer Build

Well I dont really have a budget, I just buy, what I can afford, but I'm doing it right this time. The engine is getting fixed by a friend: new primary chain, clean up, sanded and black engine paint with raw aluminum side covers and top of cylinders. Ofc fixing base cylinder oil leak, but no other child diseases. :)

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polished and raw
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primary chain to loose, grinding on the inside. A new chain will hopefully do the trick.
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Rest of the engines is looking quite good. :)



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Re: Yamaha XS750-2D Danish Cafe Racer Build

The gas tank. Quite big. Might be from a xs850/1100? But not a problem for me, quite the contrary.

- Done in the past: A lot of sanding, NitroMors paint remover and some filler, then a professional paint job some dark grey tone.
I'm done painting my self. It's not worth it. I'm only end up doing a half decent job with the needs to repeat it a couple of years later again, so I'm investing in a quality paint for job this project.

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- Future plans for the tank:
White Yamaha logo on side, white paint with clear coat or decal? I bought some decals from eBay (China) but I'm not satisfied with them.

I'm aiming for something like this:
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found some on eBay. Will try to buy them and put them on the side, and if it's not working I'm handing the tank in to some painter for a pro solution on it.

- Also the gas cap:
• black paint
• possible to change key cylinder so I can have one and only one key for it all (atm I have 4/5 keys: gas tank, seat lock, ignition, fork lock and brake lock)....

- I also need some solution for protecting the rear of the gas tank with something elegant,-'s not those ugly sport-bike-rubber-stickers.




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Re: Yamaha XS750-2D Danish Cafe Racer Build

Wheels:

• In the past:
So on the budget build I removed the old yellow paint with NitroMors paint remover and some power tools like Dremel with loads of time. I spray painted with plastic/rubber matte black spray paint and it worked out quite well. 2-3 years later still on there.

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• Now:

- Keeping the tires: Metzeler Lasertec
Front: 100/90-19 M/C 57V
Rear: 120/90-18 M/C 65H
Still a lot more miles on them.

- New tubes!!

- Changing all the wheel bearings! Just so I know it's not a future problem. The front bearings was in need of changing though.

Guided on bearing changing (xs850):
http://www.yamaha-triples.org/photos/photo-thumbnails.asp?albumid=4556

Buying new from http://yambits.co.uk or http://www.cmsnl.com

- Gonna powder coat the wheels matte black (I think that it will last longer when powder is on aluminum and give a better matte look... but not sure)

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front wheel bearings out. Still struggling with rear wheels - they are just though as a bitch!

I found out that acetone and NitroMors paintstripper are eating the rubber paint like hot butter on a pan!! Easy job removing that then, wohoo!


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Re: Yamaha XS750-2D Danish Cafe Racer Build

Over the time a have been past quite some sites for parts. So i figured I would list them here, and maybe other can contribute as well? I mainly focus on european sites:


Monkeyshop.de Germany

Wats-motor.com Belgium

Caferacerwebshop.com Netherlands

Arosspeedshop.dk Denmark

Hughshandbuilt.com US

Caferacerseats.co.uk UK

Partsnmore.com Canada

Britishracer.com UK

Yambits.co.uk UK

Mikesxs.net US

Biltwellinc.com US

Kickstartershop.de Germany

Oldbikebarn.com US

Dimecitycycles.com US

Cafetwin.com Italy

Diablocycle.com Canada

Bike-shoppen.dk Denmark

Mcgaragen.dk Denmark

Cmsnl.com Netherlands

Wrenchmonkees.com Denmark

Cycleterminal.com Original terminals and connectors for wirering!

Motorcyclesunited.eu Netherlands

Digital-speedos.co.uk UK

 
Re: Yamaha XS750-2D Danish Cafe Racer Build

So I picked it apart a couple of weeks ago. First step for me was to renovate the wire harness. I set up a little workshop in the basement, so I could come and go. I inspected all the wires, none were bad. Alle the connectors were replaced and ALL soldered. I know some say its better not to, but I experience that the wires easily gets pulled from the connectors if not clamped properly. I ordered new original terminals and connectors from www.cycleterminal.com with heat shrink and weather-resistant tape.

 

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So I got the final bearings out of the rear wheel. The bearing on the right side was stuck so I had to cut the inner ring up with a dremel tool and hammer it out. No damage to the wheel. Worked like a charm but took some time. The two smaller bearings on the left side could then easily be tapped out.

I ordered new bearing and rubber dust seals from yambits.co.uk - they were actually a bit cheaper than on www.cmsnl.com - the bearings also look a bit different. Those form yambits come with a rubber seal in them and those from cmsnl are with some metal seal on the sides.

The wheels are now ready for some sanding and powder coating!
 

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Last week I also got time to modify the frame. I only did a subtle change: rear loop.

I intended on keeping the side panels and the original battery box for now. So I only needed to cut of the ugly rear frame and also decided to cut all the cable holders (i bought some rubber cable holders instead from www.wats-motor.com/product_info.php/products_id/1461).

The outer with of the rear frame was about 22,8 cm, outer diameter of the frame pibe was 25 mm (so about 1 inch).

So I bought this rear loop from a guy not far away for 100 danish kroners (about 13,3 €) with 22 mm outer diameter inner plugs. The bindings were done some odd way (as seen in the image), so I had to cut it several times to fit it to a rear loop with some degree of bending upwards.

I local guy then did the welding (let the pros do their job).

I fitted the old seat just to see how it would work. So the new seat will have to be about 65 cm long from tank to rear loop.
 

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So Im back from a wedding, honeymoon aaaand sudden sick leave - but now I'm working again and working on the build.

I got the frame back (sanded and powdered) and started doing some assembling to determine the future design.

I'm keeping the exhaust, I always had on it. It is crome and with a "sanding" sponge (dont know the english name for it), I just did parallel grinding with gave this stainless steel look. Pretty neat. Will go well with the black.

The break caliber was assembled with repair kit and new stanless steel brake pistons (both from yambits). Black Steel brakelines from Hel.

Front brake master was painted ofc, cleaned and with new piston, cap - well everything new except cast metal. Same with rear brake master.

The main wire harness was installed on the frame.

The front forks had some weird corrosion in the top and around the oil seal, so they had to be taken apart - waiting for new oil seals there (it is XS750-2D forks but some previous owner put in caps with air valves that originally only exist on XS850 bikes).

The swing arm got new bearings. The out rim of the old one had to be cut out with a multi tool. The outer rims had deep wearings on them. So brand new bearings and seals here. Awesome!

Stearing and crown put on the frame with the old bearings cleaned in petrol, dried and greased anew.

The final drive shaft oil seal was worn and needed replacement. On some forum got tipped that a honda OEM drive shaft oil seal could replace it.
 

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So im planning the design on the side covers and the tank.

The side covers are getting painted the same metal-grey as the fuel tank.

After much consideration I decided that I dont want to have the logo underside a clear coat but instead as matte vinyl print on the outside of the paint.

I think im going for the last image. A circle on the side cover with "77" and "XS750" along the circle with "inverse" yamaha-logo on the gas tank, all in matte black.

Any thoughts?
 

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IMHO, less is more. 77 on the covers and nothing else. Or, nothing on side covers. Plain tuning forks on tank with no circle or ball. Nobody needs to know it's a Yamaha XS750 unless they care to ask. Let the bike speak for itself. Don't make it a billboard.

Nice work, BTW.
 
I like the last pic the best.

How hard was it to wrap of the tank in vinyl? I am doing a search on that now, my wife wants a satin blue tank and I found some wrap on eBay for $30. I was going to paint it, but she only wants the tank that color and it will be a few hundred dollars by the time I buy all the materials and satin gloss clear.
 
Rusnak_322 said:
I like the last pic the best.

How hard was it to wrap of the tank in vinyl? I am doing a search on that now, my wife wants a satin blue tank and I found some wrap on eBay for $30. I was going to paint it, but she only wants the tank that color and it will be a few hundred dollars by the time I buy all the materials and satin gloss clear.

thanks for the input. Personally I would get a professional to paint the gas tank, because it's the most important piece of paint job on the mc. My tank job was 3500 DKK (466€).
Vinyl is cheaper than paint ofc but not easy to wrap on a rounded tank. You would need to do the wrapping it in 3 parts. One on each side and one from front to back. You can use some cutting tread you put on before the vinyl to get the clean lines from the different pieces of wrap. Check some YouTube videos of wrapping and using cutting thread. I think something like 3M is good quality wrap. I got it from Poland through eBay but I'm located in Europe.... Soo...


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So the front forks was renovated. I originally thought that I had some XS850G-fork due to air valve in top cap, because no XS 750 has that originally, but as I took it apart, I saw that it was the original fork, but some previous owner had threaded a hole for an air valve.
 

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And then the fuel tabs. I bought a ultrasonic cleaner on 10L from some dude, who got one to small for his interests.
Its some china made thingy bought of eBay, but it works fine.

Ofc the fuel tabs got all new rubber parts. :)

How often does raw, unprotected aluminum need to be cleaned again? Would it make sense to coat it with something? Or chemical protection?
 

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So I wanted to keep the gauge clean, with no indicators, and I have this unused whole in the crown.

So I saw this "KOSO Analog and Digital Motorcycle Warning Indicator", got inspired and wanted to replicate it in diameter size about 29mm with is the inside diameter of hole in the crown.

I bought LED-indicators form kickstarter.de and build the rest from scrap plastic and some paint.

So I made the prototype done and im satisfied. Gonna buy darkened glass (like sunglass) for the outer/upper glass and print a vinyl sticker with the indicator lamp figures cut out, so its gonna be properly done :)

And I got the front wheel on the bike. After I have painted the final drive with VHT engine enamel black satin (which will be the only amateur paint on the bike by me), I can install the rear wheel and the bike can stand on its own.
Next up is contacting a motorcycle seat maker. :)
 

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Alright. Long time since I posted anything. Almost done with the build.

Engine rebuild:
  • New 0.5mm oversize pistons from https://www.scheuerlein-motorentechnik.de/
    Bored and honed cylinders by workshop
    Valves and valve seats grinded by workshop
    Valve adjustment by workshop

    Cylinder and cylinderhead overhauled with straight sealing surface by workshop
    New crank and rod plane bearings from eBay.
    Crank case sealing surface cleaned.
    Bead blasted engine parts.
    Painted with VHT engine enamel matte black, heat cured.

    New primary chain and camshaft chain from yambits.co.uk

    Renovation of oil pump, checked clearance, assembled inside engine with Permatex 81160 High Temp Red RTV gasket for better seal.
    Renovation of clutch, new plates, adjusted.

    All engine bearings cleaned with gasoline and compressed air.
    New oil seals all around.
    New “paper” gaskets all around, some places used Permatex® Aviation Form-A-Gasket® No. 3 Sealant Liquid for extra sealing.

    Engine assembly with assembly lube, oil seal grease, “yamabond”.

    Assembly, torque and adjustment after specs (both Haynes and Climer)
 

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