Key in ignition position turns bike off?

teazer said:
IMHO, that's not very tidy for a professional wiring job.

Which side is ground on that battery? It looks like +ve to ground. Did they used to work on really old British cars and bikes by any chance?

Or are my eyes fooling me again?
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It's -ve to ground but they used a red lead because they are pros at electrical.
 
East sixth street specials in the lower East side. Specializes on triumphs and Yamaha. He told me about the red as ground that's all they had in shop and wanted to get it back. That's my organization as of now before everything is in its permanent place.

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Sonreir™ said:
From switch to harness should be:
Brown -> Yellow/red
Yellow -> Green
Purple -> Black
Green -> Not used, cap off
Gray -> Black/white
Red -> Orange
Black -> Light blue
Orange -> Gray

Also, check your solenoid and ensure that it has a red/yellow wire as well as a black (not green or green/red) wire.
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if I want the bike to run with the switch to the right (low beam) should I run the green from the switch to the black in the harness? Also the solenoid has a green wire. Not black.

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Just a thought, but how about using a small dirt/pit bike kill switch. If it grounds for KILL, use it with a NC relay and if it connects to run, use a NO relay and tidy up the bars a little more.

You could even use one of those micro switches that goes into the bars for an even smaller profile.
 
teazer said:
Just a thought, but how about using a small dirt/pit bike kill switch. If it grounds for KILL, use it with a NC relay and if it connects to run, use a NO relay and tidy up the bars a little more.

You could even use one of those micro switches that goes into the bars for an even smaller profile.
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I'm thinking of making a small bracket that would go where my key is with a small tab coming out to mount a switch on. I'll do that later on after I know everything is working as should. A little nervous now I'll hit the kill switch while using the indicators

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quadracer351 said:
if I want the bike to run with the switch to the right (low beam) should I run the green from the switch to the black in the harness? Also the solenoid has a green wire. Not black.

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OK, for low beam = on and high beam = off, you'll want to run the green wire to the black/white wire and the gray wire is now the unused one.

The green wire on the solenoid confirms that the solenoid is accepting a power signal (high side switching) rather than being grounded out through the switch (low side switching). This means you'll want the brown wire from the switch connecting to a black wire in the harness and the yellow wire from the switch to connect to the yellow/red wire in the harness.
 
Sonreir™ said:
OK, for low beam = on and high beam = off, you'll want to run the green wire to the black/white wire and the gray wire is now the unused one.

The green wire on the solenoid confirms that the solenoid is accepting a power signal (high side switching) rather than being grounded out through the switch (low side switching). This means you'll want the brown wire from the switch connecting to a black wire in the harness and the yellow wire from the switch to connect to the yellow/red wire in the harness.
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Thank you! Wish I understood this stuff! You make it sound easy! In the garage now doing all that hopefully will this sparking before work!

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Running them
Brown -> Yellow/red
Yellow -> Green
Purple -> Black
Green -> black/white
Gray -> Black/white
Red -> Orange
Black -> Light blue
Orange -> Gray
The bike won't turn over
However yellow into the 4 way black it turns over but still no spark I'm looking by the coils now and have a black wire with 3 taps and nothing plugged into....
c1914245c8e2cded7cc89f470768d028.jpg


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OK. With the multimeter set to read DC voltage and the ignition switch on, test all of the black wires at the front of the harness. All of them should have about 12V.

Assuming that's true, next step is to switch on the kill switch to the run position. Then you need to check for 12V on the black/white wire.
 
Sonreir™ said:
OK. With the multimeter set to read DC voltage and the ignition switch on, test all of the black wires at the front of the harness. All of them should have about 12V.

Assuming that's true, next step is to switch on the kill switch to the run position. Then you need to check for 12V on the black/white wire.
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Both blacks and black white all get 12v to the ground

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Perfect.

The problem with no spark is going to be further downstream. Possibly coils, possibly points.

I'd check points, first. Repeat the voltage test on each point and make sure you're getting 12V.
 
Sonreir™ said:
Perfect.

The problem with no spark is going to be further downstream. Possibly coils, possibly points.

I'd check points, first. Repeat the voltage test on each point and make sure you're getting 12V.
Click to expand...
I'm an idiot embarrassed to say I was too focused on the front of the bike to realize I had the rear brake switch and points wires switched. It's getting a spark now but the batteries flat, have it hooked up at the moment will try in ten minutes or so!! Sorry for wasting everyone's time!!

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No worries. You did what most of us do and that's to start the process by looking where we think the problem is likely to be. Not many people would have started looking for an ignition problem at the rear brake switch...

You found teh problem and maybe picked up some new ways to look at things and that's all got to be good. Carry On.
 
Bikes started!!!!!!! Twice I've been shocked when I accidentally touched the band that goes around the frame and holds the coils on, exposed wire nearby or normal? Also have a very loud tick in the engine that I need to upload and post to find out about

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First start along with impromptu celebratory confetti
https://youtu.be/uFeS2PduNdo

https://youtu.be/OJ0OupiX87Q
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