Am I the Pontius Pilate of this CX500?

the cx500 is 10.5 to one compression and has a large rotor flywheel close to 7 lbs so it takes a bit of oomph
 
It's easier to put an ammeter in the circuit to test ;) .
Even a cheap automotive one will give a real good idea of whats going on. I keep a couple with extension leads and alligator clips for testing various 'high amp' components. You can also use a shunt and ordinary multimeter. Easy shunt is 19" of 6 gauge wire, (measuring points are at 19") You'll get millivolts (or milliamps, it's years since I did this) which translate to direct amp load in shunt. I guess you have a couple of runners?
It only takes a few minutes to set up and test
 
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Ride out today auto jumble and bike meet today


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Blue nylon lockers shall be picked up
Tomorrow I knew I should
If used them... bracket came off on way home!!! Had to ride 45 mins no plate or rear light!!
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So continuing with the electrical aspects, I've laid out where things are to be mounted.

I've got this so far.

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The spark units are a little far from the connectors on the loom. I think the idea of using the existing loom without alteration is a gonner.

The seat support has some bolt mounts 65mm apart...I believe for the rectifier/regulator. However, the mount holes on under side of the stock reg/rect are 68mm apart.

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I could make new mounts, or drill out the holes in the regulator to fit........but after previous comments on upgrading the battery to a Lion battery, it seems that I will have to upgrade the regulator to cope with the extra juice generated, to prevent battery burnout.

I ended up buying a MOSFET regulator from Roadster Cycles.

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Rethink location and drill new mounts.
 
I finally managed to finish preps for all the parts to be sent to powdercoating.

I remembered seeing a youtube by Ginger Geordi Biker and his CX500......he got his frame back from powdercoaters but the coating covered the threaded mounts and he couldn't get his bolts on. Nothing that a tap can't fix, but I thought I'd beat the problem and so I placed bolts and nuts in every mount. Several of them are M10x1.25......not your common garden variety type, but was able to source some cheap ones at Super Cheap Autos.

The parts were delivered last week and I will have them ready to pick up at the end of the week.

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That previous post was a couple of weeks ago, and still waiting for frame to return from powdercoaters, and also for some parts to arrive.

It's been a while since I did much "real" work on the bike, so I decided to tackle some smaller things that could be started and finished within a couple of hours.

For those in the northern hemisphere too cold to go into their workshop, we in the south are experiencing some polar cap meltdown temperatures that are feeding your record snowfalls. It's all water after all. Bottom line is that I can't spend more than 2 hours in the shed before heatstroke sets in. Today was a little better so I chanced a small escapade.

First, some of you may recall that I butcheXXXX.......... dismantled the rear reverse comstar to salvage the hub. So today, I pulled the sandblasting box outside and prepped then painted it, as well as the radiator fan cowl.

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I get the feeling that it's important to keep doing even small things, lest complacency set in and project becoming in danger of turning into storage and eventual fire sale.
 
Although I'm not doing this build on a tight budget, I do love some of the simple and effective solutions that recycle parts......such as the solution to seal the tacho cable mount since I won't be using a mechanical tacho. I WAS going to buy a plug, but this is a gem. It was suggested by Sidecar Bob from the CX500 forum. It goes like this:

"I cut the cast end off of the old cable, cleaned the cut end up and ran a 1/4" tap into the hole, then screwed a bolt into the piece and installed it the same way the cable would go."

Only difference is that I don't have SAE taps, so I broadened hole to 5.5mm and tapped a 6mm thread.

The metal is quite soft and the tap clogged up easily. It polishes up nicely. I'm guessing a high zinc content alloy.....but don't really know.
Again, a simple quick job that put a big smile on my face.

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Ahh yes. I also cut the end of the camshaft. Mechanical cam driven fan out....electric temp sender operated fan in.
 
Odontologist said:
The seat support has some bolt mounts 65mm apart...I believe for the rectifier/regulator. However, the mount holes on under side of the stock reg/rect are 68mm apart.

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Quick tip, when measuring hole 'center' go from edge to edge.(move rule 5mm to 'right') If holes are same diameter it's exact size. If holes are different diameters you either add or subtract half the difference depending on which 'edges' you measured from)
 
Been a while.
Frame and bits back from powder coaters. Time to continue. To get me in the mood, I started by putting the odd bits and pieces left on the engine.
Last week, I was short one spring and washer for the oil bolt. Thanks to CXPHREAK from the CX500forum....and SHAZZAM! One spring and washer magically appeared.
Ahhhh.....the wonders of the internet, when combined with traditional postal services....what a wonderful world.

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Thanks CXPHREAK!

New bolt O ring...

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New filter and housing O ring seal.

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Housing on...but.....forgot to polish the bolt head.

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Couldn't leave it like that.
That's better.

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Nice little job to put me in the mood.
 
It's time to start putting things back on the bike, but there's still several things to be done on the way.

The rear break overhaul. Pulled it apart, cleaned everything in de-greaser, prepped the cover with some 360 grit, primed and 3 coats of VHT Caliper paint.

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New EBC shoes and springs to go in.

Then the swing arm. I removed the bearings before sending to powder coaters. Time to put them back on.
I'm a little psychic (not psycho) and I can tell that some amongst you are seeing problems for me up ahead.
Let's find out.

First, refit a new dust plate in the left side bearing housing. No problems so far.

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Correct bearings in hand. Still good.

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Driving outer bearing race...first attempt. No good.

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Heat up the swing arm housing. Second attempt. No good.

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Freeze outer race. Third attempt. No good.

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The photo above shows an unfortunate event about to happen. It did. This is not a staged photo. I'm video taping for my youtube video series, and I take the photos out of frames from the video. There's just no need to see what happens next.

Finally, animal instinct....just bang harder. Oops.

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That's the powder coat cracking off. As it turns out, it's pretty thick.

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Sooooooooo........I thought I had been pretty clever by placing bolts and nuts on all threaded mounts to stop powder coat from obstructing threads, etc, but it seems I forgot about the bearing housings. Well, not so much I forgot, but didn't see it coming.

Anyway, I used my laboratory motor (dremel style) to removed the coat from inside the housing, left a good solid edge on the powder coat so it wouldn't continue chipping off, placed the outer race....easily, blocked it out, and primed and touched up with some metallic silver paint from a can. Don't look too bad.

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What I will say about this episode, is that although I have placed bearings in the engine so far, I didn't know how thick paint or powdercoat is, and did not have a preconceived idea of how much force was required to press these bearings in. The more you do...the more you learn.

The right side bearing didn't present such a challenge.

Using a bearing puller to knock out the old outer race.

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New outer race went in without dramas.

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But fitting the housing in the frame may present some yet. I think I will be back using my dremel again....but will leave it for another time.

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People forget about bearing housings and shock mounting studs all the time, even when 'ordinary' paint is used
If you have pictures of frame before stripping you'll probably see Honda masked off a few area's, including a ground point (usually square as they just stuck some tape over a bolt hole)
 
Live and learn crazy.

A lot of stuff had been getting in the way, but I managed to replace the rear brake shoes (EBC) and springs, polished a few bits, and put the thing back together.

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I also managed to work on the recycled rear hub, which gets new bearings....retainer side first into greased up space.

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+ the retainer. Punched to prevent loosening

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On the final drive side the distance spacer goes in and then the bearing in well greased bearing hub.

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O ring

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Plenty of grease on the O ring and on the flange splines.

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....and replace bolts to specified torque.

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factory puts the white tough stuff on them

i use blue and have no problems

none and you will sooner or later
 
Is the bearing retainer ring all the way down? It looks like there's a gap in picture?
 
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