cl360 Pamco installation / kill switch question

Got a pic of things? If I'm picturing it correctly, it would be an uncommon place go wrong.
 
Sure, here are some pictures I just took.

The first picture shows the pamco assembly on my bike with the e-advance (couldn't get the bolt to stay in since I can't tighten it down, the bolt originally fit in the center). Please ignore all the dirt on the bike...

Second picture shows how I was trying to set up the pamco plate with the circuits at 12 and 3 oclock.

Third picture is a better image of the e-advancer unit with the bolt and the broken piece of camshaft that came off.

Fourth and fifth pictures show the actual piece of camshaft that came off with the bolt.

The crazy thing to me is that the piece of camshaft doesn't look sheered, it looks like it just snapped. I can't really understand how it happened...any ideas?
 

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A cam is hardened, so it has zero flex. Somehow it flexed and snapped. Did it happen while running at some point?
 
Hi Irk- Thanks for your reply. This didn't happen while the bike was running, I've actually been trying for the past few days to get it running but haven't been successful. It happened while I was tightening the bolt that connects the advancer to the cam, outside of where the points sit on the left side. I really wasn't over torquing the bolt, just getting it snug when I felt the thension give in my ratchet and when I pulled the bolt out I saw part of the camshaft on the other side.

So am I basically looking at buying a new camshaft + doing a top end rebuild at this point? Any advice on where to get the camshaft? I might also need the number for a good psychiatrist after all of this...
 
EBay is your friend.

This looks like a good deal, right here...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HONDA-CL360-VALVE-CAM-CAMSHAFT-GEAR-1975/122861045842?hash=item1c9b16c852:g:-6cAAOSwj99aMsl2&vxp=mtr

They can be pricey, because of their notorious top end oiling issues, but you will find them for a decent price.

Common-motor sells what I'm pretty sure are reground cams for $200, but you have to have a rebuildable core.

http://www.common-motor.com/Honda-CB350-CB360-CB450-CB500T-CB550-Rebuilt-Camshaft-Rocker-Arms
 
Thank you so much for the help Irk. I have a question about the camshaft on the link you sent from ebay. it looks like it doesn't have the endpiece that goes through the middle of the points and connects to the advancer. This is the piece that is broken on mine (but I'm not sure of the actual name of it). Do all camshafts come with this piece, or if its not included in the picture, should I assume its not included with the camshaft?
 
hillset said:
Thank you so much for the help Irk. I have a question about the camshaft on the link you sent from ebay. it looks like it doesn't have the endpiece that goes through the middle of the points and connects to the advancer. This is the piece that is broken on mine (but I'm not sure of the actual name of it). Do all camshafts come with this piece, or if its not included in the picture, should I assume its not included with the camshaft?
The camshaft in the eBay ad still has the advancer attached. It's all there.
 
I see that now, it has the points attached at the end.

What do you think of this one, is there a reason it's so much cheaper than the others?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1975-Honda-Scrambler-CL360-CB-CL-360-camshaft-cams-cam-shaft-engine-motor/222680739790?hash=item33d8ce6fce:g:4okAAOSwIylZ2-mc&vxp=mtr
 
The middle of that cam looks a little suspect. That may be why. The lobes themselves have uneven wear and there are no other pics. I'd be wary looking at that. The pic doesn't show spalling, but it may be hidden.
 
I see what youre saying. I think the first ebay ad you sent is what I'll go with. Anything I should look out for when I get them outside of normal wear and tear? Should I plan on having them ground to spec (I was looking at the service on common-motor) if they have significant damage? Going to sleep on it tonight and make the order in the morning. Thank you so much for your help with this Irk.

One last question, since I have to take the cylinders off is there any other maintenance I can do while they're off? I'm sure the cylinders have never been re-honed and the valves haven't been lapped, should I plan on having those things done (definitely don't feel confident enough to take on a cylinder re-honing job). When i did my compression test today, I got 150 on the left and 170 on the right, which are both above spec but the left reading makes me a little worried. I figure if I've backed myself into taking the top end off, I might as well do it right.

Thanks again for your help.
 
You're fine on compression, I wouldn't fix what isn't broken. You're only taking the valve cover off to replace the cam. No need for total disassembly. You can get the pistons down enough to inspect the cylinders for condition. Won't hurt to check specs, but I wouldn't even pull the head unless necessary with your compression numbers.
 
The cam isn't 'all hard, it's actually pretty soft cast iron with only the lobes 'hardened' (they are still pretty soft really)
You tweaked the extension and cracked it, the break is too clean for it to have been cracked previously. If cam is good, just have an extension turned up in steel, drill and tap cam then screw it in place (probably more expensive than getting a good used cam tough?)
 
Hey crazypj- Thank you so much for the reply. This makes sense, I would assume it would be cheaper to just buy a used cam. I was looking at the ebay post irk sent for a used cam, but money has been pretty tight recently and I couldn't afford to buy it before it was sold, so I'm still looking. I was planning on just watching ebay until a decently priced cam in good condition came up and I was able to afford it.

What's a good price for a used cam? Is there a price I should definitely jump on if I see it (assuming the cam is in good shape), or a price I should definitely let go?

Do you have any other suggestions on places to look for used cams? Thanks again for your help, I really appreciate it.
 
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