Single rail trailer for behind the family car.
- Thread starter Hurco550
- Start date
Tongue weight should be 10-15% of the overall weight no matter what you’re hauling. The easiest way to achieve this is to reposition the load over the axle (eg- moving the chock), rather than repositioning the axle under the load. (but then most trailers don’t have the option of moving the axle/s)Hurco550 said:
Once you determine what axle position nets that 10-15% tongue weight for each bike you’re hauling, you’ll be able to position it quickly with each transition.
Maritime
Over 10,000 Posts
Well you do haul shit for a living. He's using the same idea as a 53 ' trailer, you pull a pin and slide the bogie(axles) forward or back to adjust tbe weight over the tractor axles(hitch). Moving the chock might have been easier unless the bike is long enough you cant keep the wheel on the front or back.
Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.
I made up the axle frame mounting plates, squared and centered it up and welded it in. When I flipped the main frame over, it had a little more flex than I had liked, so there will be some tubing bent up and welded in to help counteract the flexing.
I made up the axle frame mounting plates, squared and centered it up and welded it in. When I flipped the main frame over, it had a little more flex than I had liked, so there will be some tubing bent up and welded in to help counteract the flexing.
Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.
I started bending up a little more 1" square tubing to make some rail supports to help keep the flex down, and also mounted up a wheel and stub axle so that I can start working on fender mounts. We are getting closer.
I started bending up a little more 1" square tubing to make some rail supports to help keep the flex down, and also mounted up a wheel and stub axle so that I can start working on fender mounts. We are getting closer.
I'd like to recommend a short horizontal piece of angle and a vertical one also for the front tire to fit in to. They don't have to be very long to accommodate any size wheel and are much more secure than a channel which is very width dependent. Strapping the front wheel down diagonally between the two makes an ultra secure backup that will hold a bike very positively even if all four other standard tie downs fail. Will you be adding a horizontal cross beam for front tie downs?
jpmobius said:
Yep, that's actually exactly what I'm planning, I just haven't finished fabbing the "wheel chock" part yet. I drew up the "big dimensions" on autocad for the basic layout, but I am largely winging this as I go to be honest. (I'm a hack man, its in my blood haha)The material I have on hand has really dictated how this thing goes together. I will also be putting in a bar of sorts across the bottom of the "rail" to use for tie downs, as well as some points out back to keep the rear wheel planted.
Where will the ramp go when in transit?
I'm going to build a hinged aluminum ramp that will stay attached to the trailer. I made the trailer frame long enough that at a 90 degree angle it will still clear the bikes. At least the ones that I own. If I ever end up with a chopper I will be s o lirk miller said:
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Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.
I got a little more fab work done on the "wheel chock" area. I had originally planned on making one with a hinged rear section that will flip up to capture the back of the front tire, but I decided to just use a forward slanted v shaped piece welded to the rails. It is plasma cut out of 11 gauge (about 1/8" thick") sheet. the pieces on the top tube are just 1/4" flat bar and are not welded out yet. I'm hoping with the slant of the bottom of the chock will capture the tire into the front v well enough to hold the bike up until I can get straps on it. More to come.
I got a little more fab work done on the "wheel chock" area. I had originally planned on making one with a hinged rear section that will flip up to capture the back of the front tire, but I decided to just use a forward slanted v shaped piece welded to the rails. It is plasma cut out of 11 gauge (about 1/8" thick") sheet. the pieces on the top tube are just 1/4" flat bar and are not welded out yet. I'm hoping with the slant of the bottom of the chock will capture the tire into the front v well enough to hold the bike up until I can get straps on it. More to come.
Half-assed welds aside, that's a pretty cool design. Man, who the hell teaches those kids to weld like that?
pidjones
Over 1,000 Posts
Should work All I did on mine was add a short section of ~2" angle iron, open-side down in the rail as a hump to hold it in the chock. On flat ground, it holds the GL1000 long enough for me to get the straps on. Also, it isn't so strong that I can't back the front heel over it when unloading. I've now loaded and unloaded several times by myself with no "incidents".
Re: Single rail trailer for behind the family car.
I decided that I didn't trust my math enough, so I decided to bring a set of tires in, one is for a 21" dirt bike rim and the other is the stock tw200 front tire. Both fit like a charm and it should also work for pretty much any size in between. If anything the front "v" is a bit on the wide side for skinny dirbike tires, but I had to make it wide enough to accommodate the tw200 knobby. I can always make an adapter than slides over that v and makes is narrower if I have too.
I decided that I didn't trust my math enough, so I decided to bring a set of tires in, one is for a 21" dirt bike rim and the other is the stock tw200 front tire. Both fit like a charm and it should also work for pretty much any size in between. If anything the front "v" is a bit on the wide side for skinny dirbike tires, but I had to make it wide enough to accommodate the tw200 knobby. I can always make an adapter than slides over that v and makes is narrower if I have too.
You should create a similar "V" to capture the bottom of the tire. It is a good idea for the back as well, but optional in my opinion. On trailers with channels, I have seen the tire "walk" over to one side until constrained by the flange on really long trips. I realize your rig has a fairly confined space already and the wheel could only move so far, but being such a simple job it is cheap insurance. Plus, it has to be easier on the tire being clamped into the v with twice the bearing area, though I've never heard of that being an issue. Going to be a nice project!
jpmobius said:
I agree, if you look at post 50 at the top of the page, you'll see that the bottom is bent in a v shape. Its not quite at an acute of an angle, but it is a v none the less, and also angled forward which should help as the wheel will be trying to "roll" into the front v on the upright.
The rear will not have a v shape, since the bikes I will be towing will have several different widths of tires ranging from8" wide on the tw to 4" wide on most other stuff. I will have tie downs for the rear of the bike as well to keep it planted, and will likely have a piece of alloy diamond plate where the rear wheel sits to try to help keep it from moving around as well
I haven't forgotten about or given up on this project, just got a little bit delayed. It's a good thing I didn't finish it since now that I decided on a big front tire on the tw200 I would have had clearance issues. I had to remove the two rails that I had stiffening the frame up. I'm not sure what I will do for bracing to replace them yet, but at least the wheel fits now. I also made a new front chock for The Wider Tire, and will likely have to make a removable one that has a narrower v for when I haul a regular motorcycle on the trailer.
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