Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

Shoeman said:
Dropping a tooth is a standard trick, it helps acceleration. Never tried dropping two. If by power wheelie you mean the front end comes up by itself by just holding the throttle open in say first or second gear, I doubt the bike has lost enough weight and gained enough power to do that yet. Clip-ons and clubmans and low bars put more weight on the front, and you still have that awfully heavy cast wheel set too. I can't recall the details on your engine mods but I think it's DG pipes, re-worked heads, pod filters and that's it? Pretty standard stuff but not big power boosting mods. Those pipes are a decent boost for the money but they are not true high performance pipes. A little bit of port work would help, as would a better pipe, but I'm not really up on what's available where you are.
If you want more details PM me and we can discuss this endlessly.
Check the timing and fiddle with the jets.
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Thank you!

I will try going back to 16 tooth (1 less than standard) and fiddling with the carbs settings.
Some weight was dropped but I guess that changing to lower bars (narrow dragbar type) changed the way the weight is distributed,which I probably gonna change back too.
Thought about switching back to the stock pipes, which bring more torque IMO.

I need to see how to change my timing on my stock CDI ignition,i´ll post some pics as soon as I´m back on the bike.
 
Unless your racing and need speed you can also go up a tooth out back and then it will likely pull the wheel up out of turns (or just for wheelie fun), when I would ride in hills or higher alt I did one down two up, lost top end but it gained big in low torque
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Unless your racing and need speed you can also go up a tooth out back and then it will likely pull the wheel up out of turns (or just for wheelie fun), when I would ride in hills or higher alt I did one down two up, lost top end but it gained big in low torque
Click to expand...

my rear sprocket is a bit worn out anyways,so thats a good idea.
What I try to achieve is a easier wheelie ability,not a persistent fight to keep the front wheel down :).how you guys handle the clutch when you want the front wheel up?
 
Wet clutch slip wheelies can depend highly on oil choice but I won't get in that fight... I guess if I had to describe it I would get the bike rolling then squeeze (slip) the clutch to snap the revs up then release it all pretty quick then use both throttle control and clutch to get up on the pivot/balance point then just ride it like a bicycle wheelie, Power wheelies are pure throttle control and quick shift skills... Next you need a stoppie in the bag haha!! Stoppie around a corner into a parking spot, kick the stand out and land it on the stand never letting your foot touch the ground, I know a guy my age that can do that on a Buell XB12 and ride wheelies for miles on a road glide ???
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
Wet clutch slip wheelies can depend highly on oil choice but I won't get in that fight... I guess if I had to describe it I would get the bike rolling then squeeze (slip) the clutch to snap the revs up then release it all pretty quick then use both throttle control and clutch to get up on the pivot/balance point then just ride it like a bicycle wheelie, Power wheelies are pure throttle control and quick shift skills... Next you need a stoppie in the bag haha!! Stoppie around a corner into a parking spot, kick the stand out and land it on the stand never letting your foot touch the ground, I know a guy my age that can do that on a Buell XB12 and ride wheelies for miles on a road glide ???
Click to expand...

thanks for your expertise!I was able to do short wheelies with my stock 250 configuration in 1 st gear, let the bike roll slowly then pull the clutch slighlty in, turn the throttle then let the clutch come faster (like you described),maybe i just need to practice, I will look out for a safe side road and practice :)

of course i wear gear and cover the rear brake for sure.

Vienna is on the altitude of 200m (656ft.) clem!
 
Tune-A-Fish said:
... Next you need a stoppie in the bag haha!!
Click to expand...

You said it. I could never pull off those 50 foot stoppies the young guys do now, but back in the late '70's through mid '80's just coming to a dead stop and jacking the rear wheel a foot or more off the ground was considered cool. I can still recall the first time I pulled a big one like that on my 350 right outside the Yam dealers service entrance and all the techs standing around had their jaws hit the floor. Seems lame now but back then it was a feat. A sticky tire, good pads, a braided line, low bars, and slide forward as you squeeze and voila!
 
Shoeman said:
You said it. I could never pull off those 50 foot stoppies the young guys do now, but back in the late '70's through mid '80's just coming to a dead stop and jacking the rear wheel a foot or more off the ground was considered cool. I can still recall the first time I pulled a big one like that on my 350 right outside the Yam dealers service entrance and all the techs standing around had their jaws hit the floor. Seems lame now but back then it was a feat. A sticky tire, good pads, a braided line, low bars, and slide forward as you squeeze and voila!
Click to expand...

You guys scare me :)

What does the needle position exactly do to the throttle response?I know that jets needles areas overlap but am I right that it regulates the power of the middle throttle position?

and YES! it seems to be possible to wheel them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r1uFnwDbRhw
 
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

Your looking at 1/4 past throttle to 3/4. Best thing to do is Mark it off on the throttle so you know exactly where your are at. Sometimes you feel like your twisting the throttle hard only to find that your barely past 1/2 throttle. The needle may fix your issues but that doesn't mean your main is correct. Twist the throttle to the stops and get that main correct.

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Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

Wheelies put fewer miles on your bike. This is a 400 but watch for the speedo to stop moving. Pretty well running bike for sure.
https://youtu.be/nT9lrfi6_s4

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You can put tape next to your throttle and mark the throttle positions on it by looking into carb or feeling the slide as you twist it open and mark the positions on the tape.
 
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

clem said:
Your looking at 1/4 past throttle to 3/4. Best thing to do is Mark it off on the throttle so you know exactly where your are at. Sometimes you feel like your twisting the throttle hard only to find that your barely past 1/2 throttle. The needle may fix your issues but that doesn't mean your main is correct. Twist the throttle to the stops and get that main correct.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using DO THE TON mobile app
Click to expand...


Sterling advice. Do yourself a favor and pretend the needles are not adjustable until you get the mains correct. They have zero impact on max power, and you should always be on the throttle stops when you hit the power band. Until you have everything jetted perfectly and the ignition dialed in you run the risk of going lean and suffering the consequences if you don't. Ignore how badly it runs mid range until it runs properly at redline at WOT. Once the mains are good you can forget about them absolutely until you make a set up change like different pipes, heads, etc. Once the mains are singing, you can fix the drivability by tuning the needles and pilots (slide cutaway etc.) I'd expect you can have it driving just fine with the needles you have as your motor is pretty conservative.

Keep in mind also that everything comes with a price. The stock 8500 rpm redline is there for a reason. If you start spending much time at 9k+, the crank halves will want to walk apart and become overly friendly with the crankcase. Even if it freely revs to 10 (or better!) doesn't mean it will keep doing it!
 
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

I'm currently running 185 mains,the bike pulls freely and without any stuttering to 9k.
I will try to go up to 200 and see what happens,just to see if 185 is spot on.
I kept the stock idles.
When I'm sure that the mains are spot on I will fiddle with the needle as Mobius suggested.
I definitely need to change bars,my bars vibrate hard when I hit 90kmh plus...
 
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

So guys....had some time today to mess with carbs and this happened:

I tried three different main settings till now:

1)main 175 idle 30 needle middle
Revved up all the way,little feeling of flat spot between 7500 and 8500 so I went 185 main,no starting issues


2)main 185 idle 30 needle middle,revved till 9000,nearly smooth powerband,slightly harder to start then with the 175's


3)today: main 200 idle 30 needle middle,this completely castrated the bike,WOT it won't even go into powerband,serious starting issues,had to bump the bike to start after running warm,cold start worked easily

Battery fully charged,ignition should be spot on...

Does changing the mains change the idle circuit too?
My next step would be going back 185's,maybe 180's....
Should i mess with the idle jets for now?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Sounds like you are pretty close with the 185's. You can try the 190's and 180's and read the plugs. Rd's very often have a little hitch in the power delivery just before they come up on the pipe, which is generally what your air jet/emulsion tube/needle jet/needle mod is supposed to cure or help. You can try putting the carbs back to stock and see if it drives better once you get the mains determined. Very probably you will keep the mains the same regardless of the emulsion tube and needle combo. Where is your timing set and how are you checking it? Pilot jets are #25 stock so you can put those in which should help your starting issue. RD's are generally very easy to start if you don't flood them with the enricher so that seems a bit odd. Regardless, I suggest you ignore everything but the timing and main jets until you get WOT and top revs sorted out. Once you have that, you can move on to starting and drivability issues.
 
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

The main isn't active so to speak during starting. When you made changes did the engine cool down completely? If it is getting harder to start as the engine warms and electrical system is good then it's the pilot circuit. Like JP said you are close on the mains. I would go down I step from the 200 that gurgled until it cleaned out and stop there. You might still be a bit rich but it is safer than being a bit lean.
You did do the Dave f mod right? I thought that I read that in your build thread.

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Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

clem said:
The main isn't active so to speak during starting. When you made changes did the engine cool down completely? If it is getting harder to start as the engine warms and electrical system is good then it's the pilot circuit. Like JP said you are close on the mains. I would go down I step from the 200 that gurgled until it cleaned out and stop there. You might still be a bit rich but it is safer than being a bit lean.
You did do the Dave f mod right? I thought that I read that in your build thread.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using DO THE TON mobile app
Click to expand...

I think I´ll stick to the 185´s, they seem to be right in the ballpark,had them in for the long ride to Bratislava and the plugs looked nice too.I think I´ll switch my idle jets from 30´s to 27.5´s,and see if that kills the starting issue.

Yes I did the Dave F mod, I have the R5 needles and needle jets and a 2MM air jet installed.

Ignition wise I´m just assuming that I´m spot on,since I´ve never had starting issues before (250 setup).The starting issue arose when I went bigger on the mains.
I will check my CDI ignition this weekend.
 
Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

Cool man. From what I've read and ran into on my bike is that the Dave f mod will require smaller mains with chambers than using standard RD carbs.

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Re: Yam RD "Blue Dream"- Ride,Maintain,Tune

So guys!

I switched back to 185's and 27.5 idle and she starts first kick cold and warm und pulls nicely into the 9000 zone.
Next up will be the checking the timing.i will post pics soon!
 
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