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Thanks guys, appreciate your advice very much. I'm trying to find out what exactly is the stock height for my ride, but Clymers and the interwebs is not giving me what I need. I'd love to throw some 14" shocks on the back but definitely don't want to screw with the handling. Here's the bike I'm using as inspiration and ideas -
- by the looks of it he's jacked up the back but not lowered the front. Love the lines this gives the bike, just not sure how high he's gone on the rear shocks.
That actually may be a members bike, I don't think he has gone much over stock from the looks of the swinger, it is only slightly angled downward and the ride looks level.
LOL strip of wood, drilled at the length you want. As long as it's 3/4" ply and you make it about 1.5"-2" wide you should be able to roll the bike around etc without worry. Make sure you have the holes centered and about 1" from the ends as well.
or go with the angle iron with the pre-drilled holes cut to length that Crabs posted, you can get that cheap at CT, I just said plywood cause I always have scraps of that in the shop./
I generally grab a piece of 2x4 just wider than the span of the frame on the bottom, put a car jack under that. Push up until your bike is straight and just tension on your shocks. Then you can take the shocks off and with the jack you can raise and lower it as necessary. It can fall, so just be careful, and dont use it as long term storage, just long enough to figure out what you want or long enough to get your angle iron or something on if you are leaving it like that for awhile. Once you have both shocks off you will have a HELL of a time picking up the back end to get the longer whatever on there.
Nice one guys - haven't got a saw in the shop so drilled out some slots for the clevis and another hole 14" down the 2x4 and hey presto -
That's what I'm talking about
Height looks a million times better, frame looks straight and man, I'm digging Rhonda even more with her Jimbomatic rear suspension. Ride might be a little stiff but just look at the lines!
And it passed the beer-on-the-frame test with flying colours =)
Certainly does Maritime - think 14" is the way to go. A little less wood and a lot more spring however =)
Got the rear wheel off yesterday and opened up the hub and drum. According to the Clymers, this bearing retainer is supposed to unscrew, but mine is not moving for love or money, at least not by hand. Here's a photo of the wheel -
The bearing retainer is looking a bit beaten up as well (especially on the edge, kinda looks a bit hammered) but even if I could get it off the part is obsolete and unavailable from every online parts shop I've checked. Is it really necessary to replace this part? Are there more important parts I need to check or inspections I need to make (apart from the brake pads)?
clean that off, there is likely 1 or 2 spots where the edge has been struck with a punch to lock the threads. take a drill bit a little bigger than then spots and drill a little of the metal away to remove the nicked/bent part, it should then screw out fine, you can make a wrench with piece of steel drilled for 2 appropriate sized bolts to fit 2 holes to make it easier.
Cheers mate, I'll do that. The part I've arrowed, is that a sleeve for the part inside it (with the four small holes)? Once I cleaned it up, I should be looking for those nicked spots you mentioned on the upper face, where the sleeve meets the part with the 4 holes, is that correct? Thing is, the sleeve (if that's what it is) is pretty hammered up but hopefully all will be revealed once I give it a good clean.
Yep the ring sits in the hub, the hammered up outside edge won't effect it, its the inside edge between the ring and hub you need to check for the spots to clean/drill/file smooth,
question is, as these are "sealed bearings" will I still need the old retainer (I think that's the sleeve), and the cover (I think that's the part with the four holes on top)?
And while I'm at it, although I haven't got the front week off yet, I'm thinking it'll probably be a good idea to order a set of bearings for the front wheel too? $25 a set, so I'll get the free shipping deal if I order front and back. Free Shipping = money saved and into the beer fund
Yes, change the front too and the all balls kits may or may not need the screw in cover back on. I think you can leave it out because they are sealed bearings and they come with a dirt shield to replace the screw on cover. The fun part is getting the old bearing out, what I have used is a high quality expanding anchor bolt in the bearing center tightened as much as you can then a drift from the other side, once you get one side the other is easy. It can be a real pain in the ass. Most of the bearing pullers I have seen won't grab the lip well.
Gotta be honest, a "drift" is new tool to me - I've researched them online but get a lot of different results. Could you direct me to the tool you're talking about? If I can do this on the cheap then that would be cool too, ideally don't want to shell out the big bucks if I can avoid it, aren't we all
a drift can be a big screwdriver LOL, I have and old flathead with a chip I use for that kind of stuff, a bit of metal rod, or a cold chisel(not wood chisel) a bit of threaded rod. Anything you can whack with a mallet that fits in the bearing hole from the other side and can drive the other bearing and expanding bolt out.
This is a drift tool but you can use something similiar, I have used ratchet extensions but you don't want to use something that can be damaged by the hammering, even a piece of pipe may work. Make sure you move the piece out evenly and slowly so that you don't damage the hub.
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