lets see your cl360

XsjadoTwin

Been Around the Block
I'm looking for some inspiration...

CB's are welcome too. But I'll beg you for a lead in finding a disc brake conversion so beware.
 
Why change to disk? Imho drums look cooler and when adjusted correctly probably work better too.

Other wise any CB360 disk front end is a direct swap.
 
I loved this one I saw at the 1 moto show in Austin back in April....my pics but not my bike. It looks plenty light for discs to haul it down.





 
^^this is one of my absolute favorite cl360s and i actually speak with the owner of this bike regularly via email when I have a question about where he gets parts.... Sadly I've come to learn he had a shop build this bike and is a really great guy but not a great source for knowledge.
 
frogman said:
Why change to disk? Imho drums look cooler and when adjusted correctly probably work better too.

Other wise any CB360 disk front end is a direct swap.

I live near and work even closer to phoenix. We have some of the Worst drivers during the best riding weather since all of the "snow birds" come down for the winter. So I need to be ample stopping power. That and I am familiar with disc brakes, I know how they work they are easy to service and maintain. I have asked around and everyone has told me (I know I know..) that drum brakes are a pain in the ass to work on. So I figured the cb360 single disc set up while losing some points on look, with SS lines I'm def improving my braking distance
 
Well Honda disk brakes of that era are not to be compared with disks of even the 80's. Mine works, but it takes quite a squeeze to get it to lock and if I'm moving any good speed it won't. Now that is with stock MC and rubber lines but there is a lot to be said about how well they don't work.

Drums are no harder to work on than disks and with the dual actuating shoes that they have, they should provide the same amount of stopping power as a good set of 80's style disks. If someone told you that drums are hard, then they either never worked on them or had someone tell them they are hard to work on and took that. They require the occasional adjusting just like the rear drum. Process is outlined very detailed in the manuals. Plus one less thing to worry about leaking all over paint. Look at the bikes on the forums here, there's plenty of front drums. Those guys have figured them out.

Stainless lines add some to the system, at least you will not have any ballooning lines. I like having some flex in the lines since otherwise disks are ON or OFF. With a little flex I can get some feather out of them. The major issue is the lack of surface ratio between pad and rotor, and that they like to lock up and not retract if left to sit a while. They do work better on smaller bikes, the 550 I have in the shop has the same brakes practically and and they are a complete joke on that bike.

I know the snow bird thing as well, I live in southern Oklahoma, well that and the fact that Ok has some of the worst drivers regardless of if they are from the state or not. I swear they don't teach the kids how to drive before handing them a license. I don't ride my toys to commute and I try to stay away from all the main people going areas, I live out in the country so I can ride for miles only see a cow or 2.
 
If you have the right size master then your brakes will not be "on/off" regardless of you lines.
 
Just for reference here's a couple more (including Isabelle)
 

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And a few more
 

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Here is my old bike. I sold it a last year. It was a CB with a CL front end and exhaust.

I am looking for a new bike now for a winter project - thinking a big single.

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Unf, way too many sexy bikes. So often do I reconsider the path I have set for my CB when I see pics like these.
 
Xsjado twin, can you ask him what brand/ size wheels and tires he's running pretty please?
 
130/90 rear on custom laced excel wm6 rim, and 100/90 front on wm3 excel. They're Kenda Challengers.
 
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