KDX 200 Project thing

It looks great positioned there, hope it does work out


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Little update:

The frame is at powder, the piping for the new exhaust is finished, and I'm redoing the seat.

I've been thinking about attempting upholstery for a long time, and finally picked up a singer 404 sewing machine with a walking foot, and ordered 1/2" closed cell neoprene to shape the seat, and toss a new cover on, we'll see where this goes.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Update: you guys were right, the bond came out like ass.

I just had the tank blasted, and I have to fill in some pin holes on the bottom of the tank that were found.

I picked up dynalite to give this a second run.

I also get the frame back from powder today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
CaferacerMO said:
Update: you guys were right, the bond came out like ass.

I just had the tank blasted, and I have to fill in some pin holes on the bottom of the tank that were found.

I picked up dynalite to give this a second run.

I also get the frame back from powder today.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've had excellent luck using a micro torch and leaded solder to patch tank pinholes, then caswell tank liner, then bodywork and paint.
 
focusinprogress said:
I've had excellent luck using a micro torch and leaded solder to patch tank pinholes, then caswell tank liner, then bodywork and paint.
Yep, I actually just patched it up with acid core solder (radiator solder).
Just got done doing the pinholes, now I'm smooth them out.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
On to my favorite part..
Wiring.

I'm trying to figure out where exactly I wire this cheap eBay ignition into.. Unsure, as I've never messed with wiring.
Previous owner made this bare bones harness..
6d322a104512bbb04863b24c6bd1a0dc.jpg
cb008a5723adca16fb4a4472a0e884eb.jpg


It's powered off the magneto, not the battery.
It's currently ignition less and I want this on the street so I don't want anyone to be able to roll up and just kick the thing and go.. Lol.

Also, is this shot?
47b88f7be5902f77c8670d03ef315c0f.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Black/black white is ignition, black white to coil and black to kill switch and coil others are likely for lights and if it had a battery one to charge

This is for a KDX200
2008-04-25_002356_kdx_wiring_diagram.jpg
 
Black white splices into the coil wiring, and then black into kill switch wiring?

Thank you for the diagram!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
CaferacerMO said:
Black white splices into the coil wiring, and then black into kill switch wiring?

Thank you for the diagram!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes. The kill is just a open contact and when pushed it goes to ground "killing" the spark
 
Is it possible to remove the kill and put the ignition in its place since it's almost essentially the same thing? (Opening and closing of a circuit)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
CaferacerMO said:
Is it possible to remove the kill and put the ignition in its place since it's almost essentially the same thing? (Opening and closing of a circuit)


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Why not!
I did something similar with an old Vespa Primivera 125, I used the tool box lock to create an on-unlocked off-locked ignition as well as the kill button. When it's magneto and there was no battery there was no worry of leaving the lights on :)

bd875c453cb59eef67f6b757d928e7b9.png



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Yep, however you like, I use a micro switch under the tank on one bike that has no key at all and a kill so you can have an interrupt anywhere that goes to ground off the coil to kill it. lots of guys run a toggle hidden just as a anti theft device or to keep the kids from starting the bike.
 
I always run a hidden toggle for power to everything and a second bar or dash mounted toggle for power to coils. If there's an electric start, then another momentary switch (toggle or button) is in place for start.
 
Here's where we're at..
I got the frame and some pieces back from powder today..
They did OKAY but not amazing.
I paid 125 for the frame to be done, so I think within what I paid its alright.

I starting putting the wiring and all of that together.
Really it's ready to go as soon as my tank gets in..
But that could be weeks.
Which the last few things revolve around the tank, I can't sew the seat until I have it, and I have to see if the forks hit and address that as well.
So it's the waiting game now.

62de9b952dd00502766694c5037e2b31.jpg
3e4e798e6c880744ba11ed7022d18628.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
$125 blasted and painted? Thats not a bad deal, all the quotes I get around here are $250+ for basic colors.
 
KDX 200 Project thing

adventurco said:
$125 blasted and painted? Thats not a bad deal, all the quotes I get around here are $250+ for basic colors.
Oh, I did alright then!
125 for the frame to be blasted and painted a color they had to order in, and then they painted the pegs and foot brake and called the bill even at $130 since it took them like 3 and a half weeks or something.

A place in my home town of 4,000 people did my last bike for $120 and that got me my frame, triple tree clamp, swing arm, and battery box done, but it came back with a lot of pin holes, and bubbles.
So I only take parts there that I don't care about as much.

I'm happy to hear I'm getting decent deals around here.
Then again I'm in missouri so that could be a factor?

Here's the last bike I had done.
From far away it looks great; just up close it was weak.

40ccaa78d87f10aa1a0f9d860490608f.jpg


The same place did my GY6 Ruckus as well.

6ed403961402ffe951f88998f6034692.png


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Been really chasing my tail on this one.
Ordered a new tank thinking it would jive well, needless to say it did not.
I decided I've drawn this out long enough that I'll just rock my current tank.

I began re assembling and ran into my next snag.
I dropped my top tapered bearing and it exploded into pieces.
*face palm*
So a new one is ordered now.

Things that are left to do:
*re oil the forks
*stitch up the seat*
*wrap the headlight set up
*lock tight things
*tune tune tune tune tune

I hope to be done in the next two weeks before the fall semester starts.
That would be ideal before I start getting stupid busy.

5e7fc65d7926cf78c3622f989416c0b3.jpg
3c6729da58ea84fcb14f7603df8f40cb.jpg
b921bcd677f8c34bd7c8301bd0175a70.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
do you have any idea how much wheel travel you have ? here is a simple one, you have to know this,how much sag is there with and without rider ?
you really should delve into this stuff it is a safety issue as much as anything
just bolting shit together without knowing anything is just begging to get hurt,thats all
what is the shock sourced from ? what calculations/comparisons were done to arrive at that donor unit ?
bottom line is you cant build a mono with the spring on the shock the whole time you have to take it off very first thing, so you can observe the range of travel till hard into the bumper
it not spooky or hard to do
 
Does anyone have any experience with these style carbs?
I've never messed with them before, but I am leaking a ton of gas from the bowl, which makes me lean towards thinking its float height.
Though I don't know how to measure it on this like free floating style carb.
f5ef058da5db529599e5338b76d83651.jpg
8d20f4ef1b5df04d5f48c8a6c06ce6fb.jpg
8a80f0b563e040064e6c46a4ee1ac7e0.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Put a fuel line onit and blow in while slowly depressing the needle/float arms that little sprung peg in the needle should stop the flow of fuel before it bottoms out, if not check the needle and seat, if yes it stops air dead (about half way) you can be certain the floats are needing adjustment or well... don't float, fill the bowls with something and see, alcohol works well and dries fast. dont use acetone lol if all floats well search the part number for the float level on the goog and set accordingly not close but spot on as possible.

Also if you have a YZ 85 carb off the other bike, that thing will work nice on this motor with jetting dialed.
 
Back
Top Bottom