76 CB360, Cherry Bomb at Barber's
- Thread starter trek97
- Start date
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig, Building stock 745B's top to bottom
Assembling the butterflies, make sure you got the four correct screws for this.
The screws have divits on the threaded end. These are peened at the factory so they cant fall out and get sucked into engine.
Check and add a few drops of oil to the butterfly shaft felt seals, inboard and outboard in the carb bodies.
Looking closely you can see the butterfly valve plates have a beveled edge. These must be installed correctly.
just for the pic I installed this one backwards and its easy to see the fit is wrong.
slip fit everything together. Leave the 4 butterfly screws loose for now. So the plates can be adjusted for center.
add a drop of oil to linkage
The little socket for the linkage looks like a screw but its not threaded and is has a smooth socket divot in the head.
The two flat washers on the sync adjuster fit on either side of "fork". One under screw head, the other under spring.
Also, Guardian Angel/Mentor, crazyPJ, texted to remind me to include this spring. As it seems to have been included on some carbs. But, maybe not on all carbs. THANKS PJ!!! 8)
The spring fits twixed the butterfly shafts. Keeping pressure on the nylon flat washers, snug against the felt bushings. Preventing air leaks plus helping to keep felts clean.
Also, check to ensure the outboard butterfly shaft plugs are installed. As they tend to pop out and get lost. They too prevent air leaks and debris.
In the event you find your carbs no longer have these plugs fitted. crazyPJ makes and sells nice ones.
Assemble the carbs w the mounting plate.
Now you can work the butterflies w the linkage and twist/adj plates make sure the plates fit the throats perfectly centered.
No binding or scraping. I shine a flashlight through from the choke side to ensure they are even and right.
Now they are ready to be bench synced. I just eyeball them. Make sure they open and close exactly the same.
Dont worry and spend a bunch of time on bench sync. as they might be close but they wont be right until you put vac gauges on.
Now adjust the choke plates and make sure the flappers are working smooth. Then a drop of oil on the shafts.
I add drop of oil to the o-rings on the float seats to help install easier. They fit tight I tap em in w a small plastic screwdriver handle and hammer.
Little wishbone springs need to be installed correctly. The tips will apply pressure the the float seats to keep them in place. If the springs are installed upside down. The float seats could drop down affecting float heights.
The air correctors are easy to fit incorrectly as they are all the same threads. They are stamped for size.
These are not removable on 754A carbs.
Make sure all the holes are clear and clean in the nozzels and jets.
I doubt it makes a difference but I like to line up the Main nozzle pilot feed hole w the hole in the body.
Make sure the needle guides are installed right side up, The smaller id fits against the nozzle.
before installing the Main Secondary nozzle.
Assembling the butterflies, make sure you got the four correct screws for this.
The screws have divits on the threaded end. These are peened at the factory so they cant fall out and get sucked into engine.
Check and add a few drops of oil to the butterfly shaft felt seals, inboard and outboard in the carb bodies.
Looking closely you can see the butterfly valve plates have a beveled edge. These must be installed correctly.
just for the pic I installed this one backwards and its easy to see the fit is wrong.
slip fit everything together. Leave the 4 butterfly screws loose for now. So the plates can be adjusted for center.
add a drop of oil to linkage
The little socket for the linkage looks like a screw but its not threaded and is has a smooth socket divot in the head.
The two flat washers on the sync adjuster fit on either side of "fork". One under screw head, the other under spring.
Also, Guardian Angel/Mentor, crazyPJ, texted to remind me to include this spring. As it seems to have been included on some carbs. But, maybe not on all carbs. THANKS PJ!!! 8)
The spring fits twixed the butterfly shafts. Keeping pressure on the nylon flat washers, snug against the felt bushings. Preventing air leaks plus helping to keep felts clean.
Also, check to ensure the outboard butterfly shaft plugs are installed. As they tend to pop out and get lost. They too prevent air leaks and debris.
In the event you find your carbs no longer have these plugs fitted. crazyPJ makes and sells nice ones.
Assemble the carbs w the mounting plate.
Now you can work the butterflies w the linkage and twist/adj plates make sure the plates fit the throats perfectly centered.
No binding or scraping. I shine a flashlight through from the choke side to ensure they are even and right.
Now they are ready to be bench synced. I just eyeball them. Make sure they open and close exactly the same.
Dont worry and spend a bunch of time on bench sync. as they might be close but they wont be right until you put vac gauges on.
Now adjust the choke plates and make sure the flappers are working smooth. Then a drop of oil on the shafts.
I add drop of oil to the o-rings on the float seats to help install easier. They fit tight I tap em in w a small plastic screwdriver handle and hammer.
Little wishbone springs need to be installed correctly. The tips will apply pressure the the float seats to keep them in place. If the springs are installed upside down. The float seats could drop down affecting float heights.
The air correctors are easy to fit incorrectly as they are all the same threads. They are stamped for size.
These are not removable on 754A carbs.
Make sure all the holes are clear and clean in the nozzels and jets.
I doubt it makes a difference but I like to line up the Main nozzle pilot feed hole w the hole in the body.
Make sure the needle guides are installed right side up, The smaller id fits against the nozzle.
before installing the Main Secondary nozzle.
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig, Building stock 745B's top to bottom
Check float needles carefully. The spring loaded tits should work smooth and have a nice snap to them.
In this pic the 2 on the left are worn out. They have a mushy action and wont support the weight of the floats without compressing fully.
The 2 on the right are nice, smooth and snappy. They will support the weight without mashing the springs.
I am setting these up for a height of 20.5mm - for starters.
As soon as floats are set. Install bowls to they dont get knocked out of whack.
Setting up float heights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltXS3TWvHoQ
Check float needles carefully. The spring loaded tits should work smooth and have a nice snap to them.
In this pic the 2 on the left are worn out. They have a mushy action and wont support the weight of the floats without compressing fully.
The 2 on the right are nice, smooth and snappy. They will support the weight without mashing the springs.
I am setting these up for a height of 20.5mm - for starters.
As soon as floats are set. Install bowls to they dont get knocked out of whack.
Setting up float heights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ltXS3TWvHoQ
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig, Building stock 745B's top to bottom
I am going to be pulling the diaphragms/ slides and springs out of my modified carbs to use in these.
As they are new from Honda. And the kits are just too expensive to buy a second set just for this experiment.
The new springs measure 132.57mm
The vent holes in the slides must be positioned on the filter/choke side of carb. NOT the engine side.
In the event yours are off.
I have had luck carefully twisting the diaphragms on the slide. To get these positioned correctly w the tab on diaphragm.
If you have installed aftermarket diaphragms (JBM) they wont have tabs.
Just a note. I tried a pair of the JBM diaphragms in the past. They didnt work w my modified carbs. They seemed to rise earlier and made my bike run too rich. So they went into the trash.
I am going to be pulling the diaphragms/ slides and springs out of my modified carbs to use in these.
As they are new from Honda. And the kits are just too expensive to buy a second set just for this experiment.
The new springs measure 132.57mm
The vent holes in the slides must be positioned on the filter/choke side of carb. NOT the engine side.
In the event yours are off.
I have had luck carefully twisting the diaphragms on the slide. To get these positioned correctly w the tab on diaphragm.
If you have installed aftermarket diaphragms (JBM) they wont have tabs.
Just a note. I tried a pair of the JBM diaphragms in the past. They didnt work w my modified carbs. They seemed to rise earlier and made my bike run too rich. So they went into the trash.
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig
Pretty sure the 20.5mm will be 'best' for just about everyone. If your over 3,000ft and never get to sea level, 21.5 may be best option
With JBM diaphragms, drill slide lift holes to 3.8mm. I've tried all the way to 4.25 but then they lift way too fast causing problems. Te original JBM were a little stiffer than genuine Honda but the new ones feel more flexible. Trek, rich mix was slides lifting too slow with original JBM, (I didn't drill slides as far as I remember (it was 6+ yrs ago ;D )
Motor will 'spit' when slides lift too fast as fuel can't keep up with airflow. (about same as fitting 30mm VM with wrong cutaway, etc then snapping throttle open)
advCo said:
Pretty sure the 20.5mm will be 'best' for just about everyone. If your over 3,000ft and never get to sea level, 21.5 may be best option
With JBM diaphragms, drill slide lift holes to 3.8mm. I've tried all the way to 4.25 but then they lift way too fast causing problems. Te original JBM were a little stiffer than genuine Honda but the new ones feel more flexible. Trek, rich mix was slides lifting too slow with original JBM, (I didn't drill slides as far as I remember (it was 6+ yrs ago ;D )
Motor will 'spit' when slides lift too fast as fuel can't keep up with airflow. (about same as fitting 30mm VM with wrong cutaway, etc then snapping throttle open)
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig, Building stock 745B's top to bottom
Installed A/F adjustment needles. W stock springs and new O-rings.
Starting them at 2 turns out from bottom.
My insulators are new-ish. Still nice and soft. When I installed them I put a smear of Hondabond on the gaskets to ensure a leak free seal.
Adding a little dab of grease to the insulators helps during carb install.
Installed A/F adjustment needles. W stock springs and new O-rings.
Starting them at 2 turns out from bottom.
My insulators are new-ish. Still nice and soft. When I installed them I put a smear of Hondabond on the gaskets to ensure a leak free seal.
Adding a little dab of grease to the insulators helps during carb install.
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig, Building stock 745B's top to bottom
NOS filters
stock boxes
35 pilots
68 Main primaries
100 Main secondaries
403302 needles
New-ish Honda slides, diaphragms and springs
20.5mm float height
Using O2 sensor to set up A/F, I dont pay attention to turns on adjusters. simply set target to hover round 12.8
She runs pretty good. Always a bit of room for future improvement. :
But good enough to go to Barber festival. 8)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBCuLNfGB4s
NOS filters
stock boxes
35 pilots
68 Main primaries
100 Main secondaries
403302 needles
New-ish Honda slides, diaphragms and springs
20.5mm float height
Using O2 sensor to set up A/F, I dont pay attention to turns on adjusters. simply set target to hover round 12.8
She runs pretty good. Always a bit of room for future improvement. :
But good enough to go to Barber festival. 8)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBCuLNfGB4s
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 76 CB360, the Pig, Building stock 745B's top to bottom
That throttle shaft plug needs tapping back into body. You can peen edge slightly as well so it doesn't move again when hot
It should be ;level with edge at minimum but slightly below edge is batter. It's less than 1/2" diameter so a flat 1/2" punch pushes and peens in one go (don't smack too hard and crack body though)
trek97 said:If you’re wanting to run pods, you will need to contact crazyPJ.
That throttle shaft plug needs tapping back into body. You can peen edge slightly as well so it doesn't move again when hot
It should be ;level with edge at minimum but slightly below edge is batter. It's less than 1/2" diameter so a flat 1/2" punch pushes and peens in one go (don't smack too hard and crack body though)
76 CB360, out w "the Pig" in w "Cherry Bomb"
Gave the Pig fresh tank badging and new name...
Also added a nifty basket...1930s-40s era aluminum Coca-cola 6 pack carrier
it looked a little odd just sitting there bolted on. So I added a leather tie down to complete it.
Gave the Pig fresh tank badging and new name...
Also added a nifty basket...1930s-40s era aluminum Coca-cola 6 pack carrier
it looked a little odd just sitting there bolted on. So I added a leather tie down to complete it.
CarbsAndCylinders
Careful With That Axe Eugene
Re: 76 CB360, out w "the Pig" in w "Cherry Bomb"
Now that's cool!
Now that's cool!
JustinLonghorn
No Purple Hearts, No Blue Ribbons
Re: 76 CB360, out w "the Pig" in w "Cherry Bomb"
Righteous, man! Good to see y'all getting out and about on the scooters.
Have fun at Barbers!
Righteous, man! Good to see y'all getting out and about on the scooters.
Have fun at Barbers!
crazypj
Split personality, I fake being smart
Re: 76 CB360, out w "the Pig" in w "Cherry Bomb"
Just went back through last page, I cut a cotton bud in half and mount in Dremel to polish the shut off seat. It isn't the tightest fit in chuck but it works and there is zero chance of any damage from rolled card (?) 'stem'
Just went back through last page, I cut a cotton bud in half and mount in Dremel to polish the shut off seat. It isn't the tightest fit in chuck but it works and there is zero chance of any damage from rolled card (?) 'stem'
