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I have a 1950's Grais jacket that needs some restoration. Can anyone tell me what period-correct zipper would be found on a jacket like this from the 50's? I'm sure it would be similar to what would be found on a Buco or Beck of the same period.
Can anyone recommend a shop that has deadstock zippers? I'm going to roam around the textile shops at Spadina/Queen (Toronto) later today...but any online sources? Off the beaten path shops? Repro houses?
I was planning to bring it to Sandalman. He couldn't get past that I wanted to keep the original liner even though it isn't perfect. He also didn't understand why I didn't want to put YKK zippers on it. I brought him a NOS zipper to put on....but he kept telling me that the YKK was better. Seriously, fuck off and use the zipper I want. Another leather guy I went to held the same stance.
Sandalman also wanted over $700 to recondition, replace the front zipper and fix 3 seams.
I'm doing the conditioning myself with the chemicals he sells and it's making a world of difference. I'm going to take it to leather depot or Al in Kensington to do the repairs. Both of them quoted me about $75 to do everything.
Just in case anyone is restoring an old jacket, this is what I'm doing to 'condition' the leather. It's from the Sandalman site. BTW, you can buy these products MUCH cheaper online rather than buy them off Sandalman. Eg he sells the Lexol Conditioner for $35, you can buy it on Amazon for $8.
Hand washing your leather:
Wash leather with Lexol P.H. balanced cleaner: Take a clean natural sponge without colour as the colour can transfer to your leather. Wet sponge and then pour cleaner on the sponge. Squeeze the sponge until a soft fluffy foam appears. Squeeze all excess water from sponge and then use this silky foam to the leather. This method assures that you don't over saturate the leather with water because as the water evaporates the leather's oils will dry out even further. ( Please note that not all leather will benefit from being washed as only the surface dirt will be removed and there is always the issue of evaporating addition oil from the leather. The drying out is not as much of an issue in the case you are having the reconditioning done at the same time.)
Liquid conditioner step 1
Apply the Lexol conditioner with a clean and I stress white terry cloth towel as you will safeguard the transfer of colour to the leather. When available we will supply you with a small piece of sheepskin to apply the lexol. Allow to absorb for about an hour and then wipe off all excess with towel.
Leather paste conditioner step 2
3. Apply the Mermac mink oil with a sheepskin or towel and allow to absorb for between 1 hour and overnight. Then wipe off all excess with your white towel.
4. Apply the sealant with a sheepskin or towel and allow to dry and when the leather feels tacky and not slippery buff with soft towel and the leathers lustre will appear.
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